Red Wine Review: Santa Digna Carmenere

Miguel Torres Santa Digna Carmenere Reserve 2009 | Chile

This is a fairly typical Carmenere from Chile, offering earthy, green and black pepper aromas that you might also associate with Merlot (hence, the confusion for so many years between the two varietals down there). The inky, almost black color in the middle of this wine belies its softness on the palate. Upfront there are juicy black and red berry fruits that move to a mild bitterness (cranberry and tobacco) in the midpalate and finish, which is quick but pleasant and without heat. Tannins are mild, but there is ample acidity for food matching. Try it with lean meats or vegan dishes.

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Four Wines for Sushi

I like sushi. Check that: I love sushi; I would eat it 5 times a week if I could afford to do so.

Generally, a good sake remains — for me — the best match for most types of sushi, particularly if I’m having spicy rolls and/or laying on the wasabi heavily. But, I’m not quite as educated on sake as I’d like, and sushi is as good a reason as any to open up a white wine from my rack.

Recently, I opened up FOUR whites with a selection of salmon sushi (regular sushi piece on white rice, an avocado and salmon roll, and a “double salmon” roll). And, all four worked pretty well — and, I think they’ll work with other types of sushi, such as tuna, raw shrimp, yellowtail, scallop, fluke, etc.

Martin Codax Albarino
$12.99
This is typical Albarino in that it has a distinct mineral quality, good acidity, and white fruit — these elements come straight from the alluvial, granite, slate, and sandy soils of the cool and wet Maritime climate of the Rias Baixas region of Galicia, Spain. The mineral character is an obviously perfect match with just about all seafood. Disclosure: this wine was sent to me as a press sample.
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Woodbridge Pinot Grigio
$7.99
Generally, I wouldn’t have given this wine a second thought, based on principle: to me, “Pinot Grigio” comes from Italy. Further, I usually shy away from purchasing mass-marketed wine brands at a retail shop — not necessarily because I’m a snob, but because there are so many other interesting wines to choose from at a good wine shop, and I have plenty of opportunities to taste wines from the “big boys” at chain restaurants with bad wine lists. But, again, I must disclose that this wine was sent to me as a press sample, so I felt obliged to give it a try. As expected, it doesn’t have the racy acidity nor mineral qualities one would expect from a “real” Pinot Grigio from northern Italy. But, its round, slightly melon-flavored California character is actually a good match for the lean salmon sushi.
Find Woodbridge Pinot Grigio at a retailer near you

Carpineto “Dogajolo” Bianco
$13.99
Like the Woodbridge, Dogajolo is a bit fatter and rounder than an Italian Pinot Grigio, making it a good match for sushi (and other lean dishes). This wine is actually from Italy, but it’s a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Grechetto. The Chardonnay gives the roundness, good weight, and a mild ripe pear flavor; the Sauvignon provides some acidity, citrus, floral notes; I’m not sure what the Grechetto brings, since I’ve never had a pure Grechetto. Disclosure: I work for the company that imports this wine (Opici Wines).
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Quivira Sauvignon Blanc, Fig Tree Vineyard
$18.00
This was the most expensive of the four and, not surprisingly, the most complex. Like the Pinot Grigio, its California roots came through — round, good weight, more pear and floral aromas than the green, grassy, “pipi du chat” character you get from French Sauvignon. The flavor was dominated by pear and lime with a hint of spice, and the acidity was mild. It worked very nicely with the salmon sushi, and I think it would work even better with more flavorful sushi such as eel and mackerel. Again, full disclosure: this was received as a sample. If only a sushi company would send me samples as well, I’d really be in business!
Find Quivira Sauvignon Blanc “Fig Tree Vineyards” at a retailer near you

Next time I’ll get a more interesting array of sushi dishes and try more whites. Meantime, what wines do you enjoy with sushi? Share your thoughts in the comments.

Emiliana Coyam

The 2007 vintage of this wine was originally sent to me by Wines of Chile for their blogger tasting in October; I tasted the 2005 vintage at an “importers seminar” at Puro Chile a few days ago. Both were led by Master Sommelier and Chilean wine expert Fred Dexheimer.

Interestingly, I didn’t realize the other day that I’d tasted the Coyam before. More interestingly, when I compared my notes, they were almost identical — and highly positive. The ’07 is not surprisingly slightly more fresh, but both are juicy, complex, and delicious wine — and one of the best I’ve had from Chile. That’s saying something, considering that my company imports some outstanding wines from De Martino.

The blend is 38% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Carmenere, 17% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Mourvedre, all from the Colchagua Valley.

The nose exudes typical Chilean aromas, which to me are similar to earthiness you smell in a classic French Merlot — i.e., distinct green bell pepper, dirt, and tobacco — along with ripe red and black fruits and hint of chocolate. Similar flavors flow on the palate: ripe red and black berries, mild earth notes, hint of chocolate — all held together by ripe tannins and ample acidity. On its own, the tannins and acid are slightly too much, but those elements are ideal when pairing with food; I matched it perfectly with a buffalo burger.

According to the label, “coyam” is a Mapuche term meaning “oak” (the Mapuches were a tribe of peoples native to South America, particularly in Chile and Argentina). However, this wine does not have overwhelming oak influence; on the contrary, there is just enough wood to add a lovely, subtle spice component (I think this is where the chocolate element comes from).

This is a very tasty, complex, well-balanced wine that is best enjoyed with lean protein. Match it with the buffalo burgers that I did, or try it with turkey burgers, mildly spiced chili, bean-based dishes, mild cheeses.

By the way, this is also an organic / biodynamic wine, if you care.

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Quivira Grenache 2008

When I see the grape variety “Grenache” on a wine label, I have certain expectations. Generally, I’m expecting the aromas and flavors of cherries, other red berry fruits, maybe a hint of earth. I’m expecting a red wine that could be anywhere from light-bodied to medium bodied, with a mild intensity and ample acidity that make it a great everyday wine for the dinner table. Unless it is a Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Cannonau, or Priorat, I’m expecting it to be under twenty bucks. Which leads me to another expectation: generally speaking, I’m expecting the wine to be from France (particularly from the Rhone, South West, or Languedoc), Spain (where it’s called “Garnacha”), or Italy (specifically from Sardinia, where it’s called “Cannonau”) — though, since Grenache is grown throughout the world it wouldn’t be a huge surprise if it came from a place other than those three countries.

So when I took a sip of this Grenache, I was a bit thrown off. [Read more...]

Wine for Toning Down Spicy Food

The other day I found myself dining at The Delta Grill in New York City, which you might guess by the name specializes in live blues and “down home Louisiana” cuisine such as Cajun and Creole. If you have ever been to ‘nawlins or watched an episode of Emeril Live then you know that the food tends toward the spicy side. Spicy as in hot, and depending on the dish, it can be “ouch!” hot on the palate.

Generally speaking, the best alcoholic beverage to wash down hot and spicy food is a beer, and The Delta Grill has plenty to choose from. But I’m a wine professional, and as such my first inclination in any restaurant is to find and scan the wine list.

But what wines could possibly work with the hot and spicy tones of cajun cuisine? The higher alcohol content of wine only intensifies the heat — pouring gas on the fire, so to speak. How is that good?

Certainly, that argument has merit. Generally speaking, most wines will indeed heighten the heat. But if you are like me, and hell bent on finding wines that work with spicy foods, it is an absolute possibility.

In this case, I perused the wine list at Delta, and found — much to my delight — KWV Steen. Delight not only because the perceived sweetness of Chenin Blanc is a perfect foil to fiery food, but also because it just happens to be a wine imported by Opici. I swear on my grandparents’ grave that I had no idea we had an item on the list — it was completely random (and strangely random at that; most of the list is comprised of mass-market, well-known brands) to find it there, and completely random that my wife and I stopped in for a meal (our dog was being treated at an emergency vet hospital a few blocks away). Had the KWV Steen not been there, I likely would have gone for a preferably low-alcohol, similarly fruity wine such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Vouvray, or Pinot Gris. In most cases a rose would work just as well, as might a light-bodied red such as a Beaujolais Villages. In fact, I might even go so far as to drink a (gasp!) White Zinfandel; the sweetness will extinguish the fire on the palate.

OK, that might be a stretch. If White Zin was the closest thing to an appropriate wine match, I’d most likely turn the page to the beer list — and there’s no shame in that.

Valdivieso Wild Fermented Sauvignon Blanc

What makes a wine “wild fermented”? Without going into too much detail, it means the winemaker chose let the wine ferment of its own accord, catalyzed by yeasts existing on the grape skins and in the winery. For those who don’t know the intricacies of winemaking, most wines — generally speaking — are fermented after the winemaker introduces an externally obtained yeast to the grape juice. Does it make a significant difference, which way the wine ferments? The jury is out, but there are arguments for both sides. Further, there has been some interest recently in “wild fermented” wines, as they are seen by some to be produced more “purely” or “naturally”. Whatever. Personally, I don’t care, as long as the final product tastes great. Though, I do kind of like the sound of “wild fermented” — makes the wine seem more exciting, somehow.

Tasting Notes: Valdivieso Single Vineyard Wild Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2009

The nose is bright and expressive, with perfumey floral notes mixing with pear, grapefruit, and a hint of something that can only be described as nail polish remover. That may sound bad but in fact it didn’t take anything away from the aroma — if anything, it added a bit of complexity.

In the mouth you get white citrus fruit with some mineral notes and ample, bright acidity. The finish is pleasant, offering mild fruit, more mineral, and chalky acid coating the inside of the cheeks. It is enjoyable on its own but also good with food. Try it with sushi, mildly seasoned white fish, pasta salads, raw vegetables, and simple cheeses. At $21.99, it’s kind of pricey for a Sauvignon Blanc but I would say the price is fairly commensurate with the quality — it is on par with an entry-level Sancerre or similarly priced Sauvignon from New Zealand.

Now, the caveat … I can’t say for sure if this wine is available. I received the bottle from Wines of Chile as part of a Sauvignon Blanc blogger tasting from a few months back. However I can’t find it listed on any of the big retail-finding directories, and there is no info at all about the wine, neither on the Valdivieso website in Chile (warning, it’s made in Flash, grrrrr….), nor from the US importer Laird and Company. So maybe it’s a brand-new product, or maybe it’s always been made but never before imported. Perhaps the blogger tasting was an opportunity to test-market the wine, who knows. In any case, if you do see it, and don’t mind paying over $20 for a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, it’s worth trying.

a-7 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 88 Points

Where Did All the Posts Go?

If you look at the post below, the date says “September 23, 2009″. Of course, that isn’t the last time I posted an article.

Unfortunately, this site was hacked about two weeks ago, and as a result, a big chunk of the database was wiped out — which included about 40 or so posts from the past 9 months. (No, I didn’t have a backup … shame on me.)

While in the middle of cleaning things up, you may notice that I took the opportunity to update the site — hope you like the new look.

More tasting notes and other wine information are coming soon. Thanks for your patience.

The Top Seven Wine Bloggers (not really)

No, Vino Joe did not make the list. Rumor has it that I finished 8th.

According to Kansas City Wine Examiner Dennis Schaefer, WineOpinions released the list of the top seven wine bloggers according to the wine trade as: [Read more...]

Red Wine Review: Oxford Landing GSM

Oxford Landing Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2006 ·

oxfordlanding_gsm.jpg

The “Rhone Rangers” are gaining fame for growing traditional Rhone Valley varietals in California. However, there are winegrowers “down under” doing the same thing in Australia. This is one example.

Though Shiraz is well-known as a wine from Australia, you may not be as familiar seeing the other two grapes from that continent. Grenache is more commonly seen as a varietal wine from France, and Mourvedre is another French grape used almost exclusively as a blending agent. On its own, Mourvedre (a.k.a. “Mataro” or “Monastrell”, depending on the country of origin) is fairly tannic and has a gamey, earthy character. That’s not necessarily a pleasant combination on its own but when blended with the comparatively fat and thin Grenache (funny, only a wine could be both simultaneously), you have a perfect match resulting in a balanced and interesting wine. Add in some Syrah / Shiraz and now it’s balanced, interesting, and has a bit of oomph.

The French have been blending these three grapes together for centuries, and now Australia is beginning to do the same. Oxford Landing is an estate on the Murray River in South Australia that’s been around since the late 1950s, so they’re not new to the game. But, the label has been put on bottles for only about a decade — it is a secondary brand of the large Yalumba wine company. What that means to you is you should be able to find Oxford Landing wines easily, the prices should be affordable, and their flavor should be consistent from year to year.

You may be able to find the 2007 vintage on your retailer’s shelf; they’re still selling the ’06 in my parts.

Tasting Notes: Oxford Landing Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2006

Nose is open, with ample aromas of black and red berry fruits, blackcurrant, earth, and red licorice. In the mouth there is plenty of red and black berry fruit upfront, almost jammy, with notes of tobacco and earth. Tannins are soft, acidity is mild. Finish is pleasant, filled with black cherry, blueberry, and chocolate licorice, with a bit of drying acidity at the tail end. Reminds me a bit of Borsao, or Dao wine from Portugal. Enjoyable alone, will also be good with lean meats and fish, mild cheeses. At under ten bucks, a good value.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Bottom Line

A solid, easygoing, reliable red that is tasty on its own and won’t overwhelm a meal. Good value.

Where to buy this wine

Find this wine at a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher, Vinquire, or WineZap

Or, buy Oxford Landing GSM direct from Wine.comicon

Learn more at the Oxford Landing website or from the US importer, Negociants USA

Red Wine Review: Concannon Syrah

Concannon Syrah 2005 · Livermore Valley

Concannon Syrah wine bottle from Livermore Valley CaliforniaFor whatever reason, I’ve always associated Concannon with Petite Sirah — perhaps because they were the first California winery to varietally label the grape back in 1964. And their Petite Sirah generally rocks.

So it was with a little hesitation, overcome by curiosity, that I plucked this bottle from the shelf.

For those unaware, Petite Sirah and Syrah are completely different grapes. Syrah rootstalks were imported from other parts of the world (probably France), while Petite Sirah (which is neither small nor Syrah) is thought to be indigenous to California. We’ll discuss Petite Sirah at greater lengths another time — there’s actually an interesting story and some controversy surrounding its origins. For now, we’ll concentrate on Syrah — the one made by Concannon.

The vintage stocked at my local wine shop is 2005, and it’s drinking very nicely. You may be able to find the 2006 or the 2007 in your area; if so, and you’ve tasted it, please share your notes in the comments.

Tasting Notes: Concannon Syrah 2005

Open nose of mature, overripe black fruits — blackberry, blackcurrant, black raspberry, with hints of tobacco and earth. In the mouth it has a smooth, almost syrupy texture, ripe blackberry and black raspberry flavors. Acidity is mild, tannins are mild. Flavors evolve into a finish of blackberry, blueberry, mild tobacco, and a hint of dark chocolate that is held up with drying acidity. The alcohol is barely noticeable, which is pleasantly surprising for a wine with this much upfront, ripe fruit. OK on its own, perfect with lean-beef burgers, mild cheeses, blackened chicken, sloppy joes, tacos, swedish meatballs.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-7 ~ 88 Points

Bottom Line

A soft and jammy Syrah with enjoyable black berry flavors and perfect match for lean meat dishes. At under $10, a great value.

Where To Buy It

Find this wine at a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher, Vinquire, or WineZap

Learn more at the official website: Concannon Vineyards