Red Wine Review: Ch. Vignot Bordeaux

Chateau Vignot Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Bordeaux 2004

Chateau Vignot Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Bordeaux wine bottleOne of my great weaknesses when it comes to wine is Bordeaux (when was the last time you heard a wine geek like me admit he didn’t know something about wine?). There seem to be so many producers of Bordeaux, with prices starting around $6.99 and going well past $699. And forget the whole Bordeaux “futures” market — I just sit back and listen to people talk about the cases they’ve “reserved”. Me, when I spend money on wine, I want it NOW.

Anyway, I know a “little bit” about Bordeaux, which I’ll share with you. I know the wine comes from France, from the region of Bordeaux, and that the wines are often, but don’t have to be, blends (the primary grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc). Generally speaking, you get what you pay for, which is where things get cloudy. If you have big bucks, then Bordeaux is easy — you go after a “First Growth”, “Second Growth”, and so on, through “Fifth Growth”. These are the Chateaus, or wine estates, that were named in something called the “1855 Classification” — so named because all these estates were “classified” as producing superior red wine way back in the year 1855.

However, if you’re like me and not the beneficiary of a wealthy trust fund, then finding an affordable Bordeaux can be sketchy. Luckily there are “lesser” classifications within the region to help steer you to a nice bottle: Cru Bourgeois, Premier Grand Cru, and Grand Cru. If you see these words on a label, chances are good that the wine inside will be of good quality. Whether you like it or not, however, is another story.

But wait, it’s actually not that simple. There’s an area in Bordeaux called Saint-Emilion which subscribes to a completely different set of rules. And unfortunately, it gets more complicated — partially because the process by which wines are classified in Saint-Emilion is under controversy. You can, however, count on a label that says “Grand Cru Classe” (and you’ll pay for it). If you find you like Bordeaux wines, though, it’s worth doing research on — and tasting through — the wines of Saint-Emilion.

There are very fat books dedicated to Bordeaux, and we can’t even scratch the surface of the region and its wines here. That said, very generally speaking, the wines from the Medoc, Haut-Medoc, and Graves (pronounced “graav”) will be dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon. If you see Saint-Emilion or Pomerol on the label, the wine most likely will be based on Merlot and or Cabernet Franc. Armed with this information, it may be a bit easier for you to start exploring wines from the Bordeaux region.

Today we review a Bordeaux from Saint-Emilion, and it’s “only” a Grand Cru, as opposed to a Grand Cru Classe. But you wouldn’t need me to tell you how great a Grand Cru Classe is, so I’ve picked one of the diamonds out of the haystack of Grand Crus in Saint-Emilion — one with the potential to add “Classe” to its label in the near future, in fact.

This wine is made at Chateau Lassegue by superstar winemaker / vigneron Pierre Seillan (who is also the genius behind Verite, Tenuta di Arceno, and other boutique wineries under the Jackson Estates umbrella).

Tasting Notes: Chateau Vignot Saint-Émilion

Deep, dense, purplish and magenta color suggests that it is still young. Forward nose of rich, ripe, complex, yummy smelling red and black berry fruits: mulberry, boysenberry, raspberry, and currant, along with mild tobacco, earth, and a hint of tar. Palate is equally complex, with flavors of dry blackberry, black raspberry, tobacco, an earthy herbal component, and a touch of chocolate licorice. Silky smooth texture – almost creamy. Tannins are firm but not overwhelming. Acidity is medium and in good supply for food matching. A bit too dry to drink alone, enjoy this with a piece of cheese to take the edge off, or grill a good steak. It’s in its youth, and will improve with some time in the cellar. Polished.

At about $35, it’s pricier than most wines reviewed here. However, I can tell you that you don’t have to be worried about spending that much for Chateau Vignot — in this case, you get what you pay for, and what you get is a high quality wine.

a-10 t-8 b-9 fc-8 v-7 ~ 92 Points

Winery: Chateau Lassegue

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Pinot Noir Review: Fleur 2006

Fleur Pinot Noir 2006 – Carneros

Fleur Pinot Noir red wine labelEver since “Sideways” came out, everyone and their brother became a Pinot Noir snob, and the wine suppliers reacted by flooding the market with all kinds of swill labeled with that classic French varietal. Four years after the movie, wine shops can’t keep enough Pinot Noir stocked on the shelves — from all areas of the world and at all price points. Some of it is good, much of it mediocre, and too many are awful. The problem is that you can’t force production of the wine anywhere you want, anytime you want — Pinot Noir is a fragile grape, easily affected by temperature changes and representative of the quality of its soil. The reason it wasn’t a big deal in the mass market before is because of its fragility — it’s difficult to make good-quality Pinot Noir, period, never mind trying it year in and year out.

If you’ve ever had REAL Pinot Noir — the stuff that costs a minimum of $40 per bottle and has all kinds of French words that 95% of the population can’t comprehend — then you know that most of the affordable wines labeled “Pinot Noir” from outside Burgundy are, well, pretenders. But that’s not to say you can’t find a decent drinker.

For a while, I turned my nose up at these pretenders, then realized how dumb it was of me to do so. It was a matter of managing expectations; previously, when the label said “Pinot Noir”, I was expecting sheer bliss in a bottle. Now, I look at the price tag — if it’s under 25 bucks, I’m just hoping the wine is drinkable, and judge it as a “red wine”, rather than against the glories of Burgundy.

As it turns out, there are valid quaffers and good table wines labeled as Pinot Noir in my cheapskate price range, and I’m constantly on the lookout for well-made bargains. I found one recently from the Fleur winery in Carneros, California — for about $13.

Tasting Notes: Fleur Pinot Noir 2006 Carneros

Bright, open nose of fresh sweet strawberry, red cherry, maraschino, red raspberry and a distinct floral character – hence the name “Fleur”. In the mouth you get upfront, forward fruit: ripe strawberry, red cherries, red raspberry, and cranberry. Acidity is mild to medium, tannins are mild. This wine drinks similarly to a soft Beaujolais Cru (Fleurie?), and is enjoyable on its own though better with food. Have it with roast chicken, pork chops, turkey, vegetarian cuisine. A good value.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-9 v-8 ~ 90 Points

Fleur de California winery website

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Merryvale Cabernet Vineyard X

Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyards Vineyard X Oakville

Merryvale Beckstoffer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Vineyard X wine bottleNow we’re getting into the serious Cabernet Sauvignons.

Merryvale is one of my favorite California wineries, based on its consistently good quality, well-valued Starmont line. Because their “entry level” bottlings are enjoyable, it would stand to reason that their high-end wines would be even better. Merryvale’s Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyards “Vineyard X” Oakville proves the point.

It’s called “Beckstoffer” because the grapes come from Andy Beckstoffer’s vineyards on the “Oakville Bench” in Napa Valley — this collaboration has been going on since 1992, and this particular wine has only been made five times. Only 1500 cases were made, with the grapes coming from three different “blocks” of vineyard (these are parts of a vineyard that have been specifically identified and cared for, for one reason or another; in short, it means the vines are of high quality, in a fantastic location, and old). After fermentation, the wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels (66% of them new) and was bottled unfiltered.

The nose has typical Cabernet aromas – black fruits, leather, earth, tar, black pepper – as well as a good dose of black licorice and some spice. In the mouth it is full, fruit-forward, and borderline jammy. Flavors are complex and delicious, showing black raspberry, black currant, cassis, blueberry, boysenberry, earth, coffee, tar, tobacco, pepper, and slight twinges of spice and a vegetal component. Texture is smooth, almost creamy. Acidity is at a good level for food and a fine foil for the big fruit. Tannins are ripe, and of medium intensity. This wine was a bit softer than I expected; I was expecting a huge, bold, tannic monster. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised to find this very drinkable, and immensely enjoyable. A tasty, polished, classy wine that is best enjoyed with a cheese plate, steaks, beef roasts, beef stew – anything with beef, in fact. At around 75 bucks, this ain’t cheap … but if you can afford it, it’s worth the dough.

a-9 t-10 b-9 fc-8 v-7 ~ 93 Points

Winery: Merryvale

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Red Wine Review: Mt. Veeder Cabernet

Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Mount Veeder Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wine bottleAs mentioned in the last post, I’ve been on a Cabernet binge.

Mount Veeder is both a winery and an appellation — it is an official AVA within Napa Valley, consisting of about 25 square miles along a steep mountainside in the Mayacamas Mountains. The area is rich with volcanic soil and tends to produce powerful, long-lived wines.

Mount Veeder, the estate and winery, has been around since the 1960s, and released its first bottling in 1973. Owners Michael and Arlene Bernstein were the first vintners in Napa Valley to successfully grow all five traditional Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot) on one property.

The nose is slightly closed, but still giving good aromas of black fruits, eucalyptus, and some earth. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly open upfront, giving a mildly jammy black raspberry flavor. From there, though, this wine gets very serious, as a mad rush of complex flavors, good acidity, and ripe, firm tannins enter the picture. Wild berry fruit, black fruits, some tar, leather, tobacco, earth, and a touch of spice fight for attention in your mouth, and linger through a long, pleasing finish. A lot of attitude here, and gobs of concentrated fruit. Tannins are fairly aggressive, begging for protein. Match it with ribeye steak, strong cheeses.

a-8 t-10 b-9 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

Winery: Mount Veeder

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Red Wine Review: Stonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon

SStonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon wine bottle Alexander Valley Californiatonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2004

I’m on a Cabernet binge lately, so there will be a run of reviews on the grape coming your way.

Initially, there was almost nothing on the nose – it was closed up. After letting it sit in the glass for about an hour and a half, some aromas started to eek out. Blackcurrant, black raspberry, menthol / eucalyptus, some earth. On the palate it is glassy smooth in texture, with ample black fruit and earth flavors. Tannins are medium high, acidity is medium. There is a lot going on here, too much to analyze now. It’s a young wine that at minimum needs a few hours of decanting before drinking now, but a better plan is to leave it in the cellar for a few years. A big, bold wine that reminds one of a cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, definitely Bordeaux in style with many layers hiding right now. Cellar it, and try again in 3-4 years. A good value for a wine of this complexity.

Addendum: this wine passed the “next night” test … in fact, I corked it up and drank it again five days later and it still held its character.

a-8 t-9 b-8 fc-7 v-8 ~ 90 Points

Winery: Stonestreet

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Red Wine Review: Argiano NC

Argiano NC (Non Confiditur) 2004

Argiano NC Non Confuditur Tuscan wine bottleFor those of you who wasted away your childhood watching Saturday morning cartoons such as Fat Albert and the Cosby Kids may remember “NC” being the abbreviation for “no class” — which the character Russell invariably used to insult Rudy.

However, this wine has plenty of class, and in fact the “NC” stands for “Non Confunditur”, a latin term which the Argiano family uses as their motto. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the term means because instead of taking latin as a kid I wasted away my time watching cartoons. Anyway …

This is a Tuscan blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese, and 20% Syrah – all from vineyards in the Montalcino district. It’s an IGT, and could be considered a “baby Super Tuscan”. All those great grapes put together, spending a full year in oak barrels, and then another four months in bottle before release, and yet it still retails for under twenty bucks. Amazing.

The nose is deep, rich with aromas of leather saddle, black fruit, tobacco, earth, tar, peppermint, and something else green or herbal — eucalyptus? Sage? Bay leaf? I’m not sure, I really need to get better at this. The palate has similar flavors, dominated by sweet black cassis fruit, sweet tobacco, a touch of anise and red licorice, and some mocha / chocolate hints. Acidity is low, tannins are medium and firm. The texture is very smooth. There’s a bit of hotness that appears momentarily but fades away by the finish, which has good fruit (black raspberry, cassis, black licorice, tar, tobacco) and is fairly well balanced. The acidity isn’t high enough to match with tomato sauce, so try it instead with hard and soft cheeses, grilled meats, lamb chops.

This is a wine that drinks like a big boy, but not priced like one. A good value.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-8 ~ 89 Points

Importer: Vias

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Wine Review: Masi Amarone

Masi Costasera Amarone 2001

Masi Costasera Amarone wine bottleAmarone is a big, fairly expensive, red wine from Italy that matches with a fairly small variety of foods. Although, if braised beef cheeks, lamb steaks, venison stew, or similarly gamey dishes are frequent in your home, you may disagree. Since I almost always drink wine with food as a rule, and I have neither the time nor the stomach to braise beef cheeks, Amarone has a hard time breaking into my routine.

Still, there are times when Amarone is perfect — most often, in my case, as an after-dinner drinker with a chunk of cheese (aged Parmegiano-Reggiano is a good choice). And once a bottle is started, it’s hard not to finish; Amarone can be a stunning, intriguing, highly complex, and seductive wine to contemplate over.

Tasting Notes: Masi Amarone “Costasera”

Nose is still a bit closed, but deep down are some aromas of bitter earth, tobacco, distinctly herbal spices (sage, thyme, bay leaf, maybe the slightest hint of rosemary), ash, and some black fruits – licorice, prune, cassis. On the palate the texture is smooth, the flavors are sweet prune, cassis, black licorice, mulberry, black raspberry. Tannins are ripe and surprisingly tame for Amarone, but still bigger than most red wines; I’d call the level medium to medium high. Acidity is medium. Another surprise is the alcohol, which is lower than expected. The finish could be longer, but is in better balance than similar wines. Flavors in the finish include blackberry, herbs, tobacco, and tar. Do not make the mistake of pouring this wine directly from bottle to glass – it needs to breathe, and it needs some time. Pour it into a decanter, then pour it again into another decanter, and let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes before tasting — otherwise it may seem harsh instead of polished, and you’ll likely miss out on the complexity and subtle nuances that make this wine special. It will probably be a nice match for lamb, gamey dishes, roast pork loin, or a hunk of hard cheese. A fine, polished wine to open up next to the fire on a cold winter night.

a-8 t-8 b-9 fc-7 v-9 ~ 91 Points

Importer: Remy USA

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Merlot Review: Domaine de Gournier

Domaine de Gournier Merlot 2005

Domaine de Gournier Merlot wine labelEver since reading the novel Sideways(and watching the movie), I’ve been obsessed with finding quality Merlot wines — so forgive me if I post too many reviews on them.

This one comes from France, from the southwestern part of the country (officially, “South West”) — a region that is often overlooked by the wine snobs because of its history as an area of high-volume production. However, there are many, many, tiny producers strewn throughout the South West, from places such as Languedoc-Roussillon, Costieres de Nimes, and Provence — which is where Domaine de Gournier is situated.

Luckily, there is an American importer by the name of Bobby Kacher who knows this area pretty well, and brings in some high quality bottles at more than fair prices. This Merlot is no exception.

Tasting Notes: Domaine de Gournier Merlot

A bright, ripe, open red wine. On the nose is black fruit, tar, tobacco, earth, and black pepper. . Luscious and jammy upfront, spilling over with black and red raspberries. Smooth as glass texture, almost creamy, carrying the ripe fruit into a well balanced finish of mild acidity, medium tannins, and plenty of berries and spice. Match it with burgers, chili, sloppy joes, tacos, and cheesy dishes. A full, fruit-forward, classy wine that over-delivers on its price. At about nine bucks or less, it is a great value.

a-8 t-8 b-10 fc-8 v-10 ~ 94 Points

Importer: Robert Kacher Selections

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Red Wine Review: Umberto Fiore Barbera

Umberto Fiore Barbera d’Alba 2004

Umberto Fiore Barbera d'Alba wine bottleIf you’ve been reading this blog for a while then you know I’m a sucker for a good Barbera — especially when I find one around fifteen bucks or under. This particular example fits the bill, being right in the $13-15 range and offering strong compatibility with a number of foods.

Tasting Notes: Umberto Fiore Barbera

Bright, wide open nose of ripe black cherry, black and red raspberry, along with sweet ripe earth, tobacco, vanilla spice and pepper. Smooth, glassy texture in the mouth carries ripe raspberry, black cherry, and sweet earthy notes. Acidity is medium, and ample for food matching. Tannins are mild to medium, offering good structure. Well balanced for a food wine, fruit lingers in the finish. A bright, happy, juicy, and enjoyable wine to drink with pasta in marinara, sausage and peppers, meatball / veal / eggplant chicken parm, or a hunk of parm-reggiano cheese.

a-8 t-8 b-9 fc-9 v-8 ~ 92 Points

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Red Wine Review: Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino

Vasco Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino 2003

Imported by Saranty Imports – from Total Wine and More

From Montalcino comes the huge, ageworthy, and expensive wines known as Brunello. Montalcino is a very hot growing area south of the Chianti region in Italy, with the main grape being a strain of Sangiovese — though down there they may call it Sangiovese Grosso or Prugnolo. For those who can’t afford — or can’t wait — for Brunello, luckily there is a somewhat lighter and less-expensive wine called “Rosso di Montalcino”. Usually the “Rosso” is made from grapes deemed not worthy enough for Brunello production, but still fine for making quality wine.

The big name in Montalcino is Sassetti, as the estranged brothers Livio and Angelo seem in a fierce competition to create the best Brunello in the region. I’d never heard of Vasco Sassetti, but figured that name matched with wine from Montalcino had to be decent. Turns out my instincts were correct.

Tasting Notes: Vasco Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino

The nose is wide open, beginning to mature, with rich ripe aromas of black cherry, earth, tar, black pepper, black raspberry, some eucalyptus and a hint of tobacco. In the mouth it is equally complex and interesting, with flavors of ripe raspberry, black cherry, tobacco, tar, earth, and a touch of spice. Acidity is drying and appropriately creeping toward sharp, and tannins are medium. A perfect match for a hunk of parmigiano reggiano cheese, and also nice to drink with sausage pizza, mac and cheese, grilled skirt steak, tripe, sweetbreads, and most any dish dominated by protein and cheese.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-9 v-8 ~ 90 Points

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