Zeta Garnacha 2005

Navarra, Spain

A few things made me buy this bottle. First, the striking, shiny red and silver label caught my eye and insisted attention. I know, I know, you can’t judge a wine by its package any more than a book by its cover, but it seemed to be screaming for me to take off the shelf and hold in my hand.

Once I picked up the bottle and studied the label, I liked the idea that it was from Navarra, Spain, as that region has proven time and time again to be a hotbed of red wines with a favorable quality:price ratio. Finally, I saw it was brought in by Weygandt-Metzler, who is one of those smaller importers that you can count on for getting your money’s worth. Alas, I was not disappointed (who says “alas” these days, by the way?)

An open nose of earth, berries, black fruits, and spice suggests a juicy wine, and indeed that’s what you get on the palate. Lots of forward, jammy black and red berry fruit fill the palate upfront, and remain in good balance as a gush of ripe tannins and ample acidity follow the fruit and provide good structure. It’s a touch hot at the very end, but otherwise provides a tight bundle of jammy fruit, earth, and spices from start to finish. A good match for lean red meat, ground-turkey based burgers and sloppy joe’s, mild chili, tacos, and cheeses.

A great wine? Not by a longshot. But for about eight or nine bucks, it’s a fine value.

a-8 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 85 Points

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Sometimes it’s really nice to open up a bottle of wine you don’t have to think about. Just uncork, pour, and sip with whatever you’re having, and know it will manage just fine regardless of whether you have a rack of lamb or mac and cheese on your plate.

Naturally, if you go to the trouble and expense of roasting a rack of lamb, you’ll probably spend similar time and money on a wine. So really I’m talking more about the other side of the spectrum: the mac and cheese, tacos, pizza, and similarly cheap, quick, and easy meals. Do you really need to stare at your wine rack, trying to figure out which vintage of cru bourgeoise will match with the Ortega taco sauce? Of course not.

That’s why there are wines such as El Paseo Red, a 100% Tempranillo from the Valencia region of Spain. Its bright and colorful label evokes the same fun and thoughtlessness that’s inside the bottle. Pour it into a glass and you immediately enjoy aromas of plum and jam with hints of earth and spice, followed by a fruit-forward palate filled with red and purple fruit flavors: grape jam, mild earth, black pepper, and overripe / cooked berries. Acidity and tannins are medium, balancing out the fruit. A touch hot with alcohol in the finish, but not so much to be a turn-off. Ripe raspberry and a touch of vanilla spice in the finish. The acid and tannin levels are just enough to make this a good food wine. It will match well with a variety of meats, grilled dishes, simple fare (burgers, mac and cheese, etc.).

Bottom line: it’s a simple red wine at an appropriately low price (about seven or eight bucks, or less). A decent “everyday” table wine, and/or a good choice for adding to sauces, gravies, and marinades. And nothing to think about.

a-6 t-6 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 86 points

US Importer: Precept Brands | Winery website: El Paseo

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While it’s obvious that most wines are made from grapes, it’s uncommon for a pontificator such as myself to describe one as “grapey” … we wine snobs and scribes are more apt to attach descriptors such as “forest-floor earthiness”, “musky feral aromas”, “baritone richness”, and my recent favorite, “umami character” (you can’t make this stuff up!).

However, I’m going to go against the grain and say that Vina Alarba Grenache is simply, “grapey”. It smells grapey and tastes grapey — as in grape juice or grape jelly.

It’s more than that actually … the grapey-ness (is that a word?) is part of the open, ripe fruit aroma that also has a hint of red licorice. In the mouth you get the same grape jelly character along with red licorice and similar candylike flavors upfront, held together by mild to medium acidity and mild tannins that give enough structure to match with a wide variety of foods. Despite the perceived sweetness — which by the way makes in an excellent match for roast duck with plum sauce, and meats doused in BBQ sauce — the wine finishes dry, with a balanced aftertaste.

In some ways it reminds me of Beaujolais Nouveau … only, a Nouveau with more structure, seriousness, and length. Though a wine connoisseur with a cellar full of Bordeaux would likely scoff at this wine, it has its place with those of us who have an appreciation for solid wines under seven dollars. Match it with the suggestions above, Mexican fare, and non-snobbish appetizers (i.e., pigs in blankets, “port wine” cheese, hot poppers). This wine also qualifies as an excellent introduction to the “white wine only” crowd.

a-6 t-6 b-6 fc-7 v-10 ~ 85 points

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