Everyday Wines

Domaine de Gournier Merlot 2005

Ever since reading the novel Sideways(and watching the movie), I’ve been obsessed with finding quality Merlot wines — so forgive me if I post too many reviews on them.

This one comes from France, from the southwestern part of the country (officially, “South West”) — a region that is often overlooked by the wine snobs because of its history as an area of high-volume production. However, there are many, many, tiny producers strewn throughout the South West, from places such as Languedoc-Roussillon, Costieres de Nimes, and Provence — which is where Domaine de Gournier is situated.

Luckily, there is an American importer by the name of Bobby Kacher who knows this area pretty well, and brings in some high quality bottles at more than fair prices. This Merlot is no exception.

Tasting Notes: Domaine de Gournier Merlot

A bright, ripe, open red wine. On the nose is black fruit, tar, tobacco, earth, and black pepper. . Luscious and jammy upfront, spilling over with black and red raspberries. Smooth as glass texture, almost creamy, carrying the ripe fruit into a well balanced finish of mild acidity, medium tannins, and plenty of berries and spice. Match it with burgers, chili, sloppy joes, tacos, and cheesy dishes. A full, fruit-forward, classy wine that over-delivers on its price. At about nine bucks or less, it is a great value.

a-8 t-8 b-10 fc-8 v-10 ~ 94 Points

Importer: Robert Kacher Selections

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Domaine d’ Andezon Cotes du Rhone 2004

It’s autumn in the Northern Hemisphere and that means it’s time to start transitioning from the heat of summer to the cold of winter. Oh, and from the light, crisp, cold white wines to the heavier bodied, warm red wines — to match the richer, warmer dishes and “comfort foods” people tend to enjoy more as the weather gets chilly. One wine that seems to go hand in hand with the fall season is Cotes du Rhone, a hearty red wine from the southern Rhone region of France.

Cotes-du-Rhone (COAT- duh - RONE) — or “CDR” for short — is found under many brand names, and usually a blend dominated by the grapes Syrah and Grenache (although several other grapes can be contained, including but not limited to Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Carignane). The grapes can be harvested from all over the Rhone region, though most come from the southern part of the region. Many wineries make both a red version and a white version (the white usually includes Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and/or Grenache Blanc), but the reds are much more popular in the States.

It used to be that CDRs were heavy, fairly tannic wines that would match well only with high-protein foods. However, the Cotes-du-Rhones on the shelf today are for the most part more lively, fruity, and fun compared to their ancestors. You may hear some Frenchmen refer to CDR as a “bistro wine”, because it will go with a number of simple dishes you might find on the menu of a French bistro — such as hamburger, mac and cheese, meat pies, stews, braises, roast chicken, etc.

Tasting Notes

This particular bottle is from Domaine d’Andezon, which is a 25-acre estate in the village of Estezargues, situated on the southwestern edge of the Rhone Valley delta. Included in the vineyards are low-yielding Syrah vines that are up to 100 years old (that’s a big deal; old vines mean longer roots, which many people think deliver more complexity to the fruit).

Fresh, bright, ripe red berry flavors dominate the nose and palate, along with some black berry, earth, and pepper. Red raspberry, black raspberry, black cherry, a touch of red licorice are some of the flavors I get. Very clean, with a smooth texture. Acidity and tannins are equal, and somewhere between mild and medium intensity. This wine is rich and mouthfilling enough to be very appealing on its own, and is even better with food.

Drink this with burgers, stews, shepherd’s pie, pot roast, and similar “bistro” dishes.

A solid wine, a good choice as an everyday red for the dinner table. At less than ten bucks, a good value.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Importer: Eric Solomon Selections / European Wine Cellars

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Fattoria San Fabiano Chianti Putto 2004

Chianti has been, and remains, one of my favorite “fall back” wines — a bottle I can open with almost anything, and because of the relatively inexpensive cost, not feel guilty about uncorking to match with a simple everyday meal.

That said, I’m constantly on the lookout for a reasonably priced ($10-$15), quality Chianti. Notice I didn’t say “Chianti Riserva” or “single vineyard” Chianti — these tend to cost upwards of twenty to thirty dollars or more, and deserve to be contemplated over a hunk of grana or a Tuscan-grilled steak or homemade meatballs and marinara. What I’m referring to here is a simple, easy drinking Chianti that will be enjoyable with, say, a slice of pizza or pasta with jar-made sauce.

As usual, my favorite Italian importer Vias comes through with a good bang-for-the-buck bottle, San Fabiano Chianti “Putto”. It’s made from a somewhat traditional Chianti blend — 60% Sangiovese, 20% Malvasia Nera, 10% Cannaiolo, 10% Ciliegiolo 20% Malvasia Toscana — something we’re seeing less and less of since the Consorzio began allowing up to 100% Sangiovese in Chianti Classico DOCG.

San Fabiano Tasting Notes

Good black cherry character, good acidity, well balanced, smooth enough texture, easy going finish. Matches well with all types of food. For about ten bucks, you can’t go wrong. Added bonus: it passed the “two night test” ; it drank nearly as well after being recorked (half bottle left, no carbonation) and poured again the next evening. Match it with pizza, pasta and marinara, mac and cheese, cured meats (i.e., antipasti plate), and similarly simple dishes.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 88 Points

Importer: Vias Wine

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Les Deux Rives Corbieres Rouge 2005

Summer is the best time for drinking white and pink wines, but that doesn’t mean you should swear off reds completely. In fact, now is a good time to sample lighter reds that you might not consider during the braising and roasting seasons of autumn and winter.

One such lighter-bodied red, which I find to be a nice match for an array of summertime meals, is Les Deux Rives Corbieres rouge (lay doo reev core bee air rooozh). If you didn’t take French 101, and don’t know much about France’s wine geography, you might have some trouble pronouncing this wine, much less understanding all the gobbledygook on the label.

First, let’s talk about the brand name. “Les Deux Rives” is the name representing the best wine blend of Corbieres produced by les Vignerons du Val d’Orbieu, a group of winegrowers based in Narbonne in Southern France (Val d’Orbieu is in small print somewhere on the label, but this wine is best known by the former moniker).

Additionally, “Les Deux Rives” means “the two banks”, as of a river or other water current (as opposed to Chase and Wachovia). In this case, it refers to the two banks of the Canal du Midi, a canal built in the 1600s that ran through the Corbieres region connected the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. It was one of the most important routes for transporting wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon to northern France, Europe and beyond. The label, in fact, is a rendition of a 1920s postcard of the Canal. So now you have a cool story to tell your friends when you’re pouring the wine.

In addition to the story of the label, it’s helpful to know something about Corbieres. The Corbieres is one of the largest wine appellations in France, a sub-region of the Languedoc-Roussillon, located in the south of France, below Minervois and along the Mediterranean Sea. The main grape grown there is Carignan, which you’ll see throughout the south of France and also in California, and is usually used in combination with other grapes such as Grenache and Cinsault. For a long time, the wines of Corbieres were considered “cheap plonk”, and deserved little attention from critics. However, there are now many fine wines produced in the region, including several excellent values.

This Corbieres from Les Deux Rives is a blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah, with lesser amounts of Mourvedre and Carignan. The nose is soft, not too expressive. Smells of black cherry, hints of earth and tar. Soft and easy on the palate. Not too complex, but good balance and structure that makes it an ideal match for mildly flavored foods, seasoned fish (blackened), fried chicken, hash browns, mild cheeses. Acidity is medium, tannins are soft to medium. Flavors are black cherry, cranberry, red raspberry, touch of mineral, and an earthy, herbal / vegetal component. Smooth texture.

I discovered this wine about six or seven years ago ever since have had it on my list of reliable standbys. Year in and year out, Les Deux Rives provides a consistent flavor profile and structure that is typical of the Corbieres. It’s a step above Beaujolais, a step below Syrah (more like Grenache) — a solid, “bistro” wine and good value. Match it with roasted chicken, lamb, mac and cheese, burgers, and pretty much anything off the grill.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Importers: Pasternak Wine Imports and Martin Sinkoff Wines

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Masi Soave Classico “Levarie” 2005

Soave gets a bad rap, mainly because most people associate it with the big 1.5- or 3.0-liter bottles filled with insipid, watery juice from mass-market producers, or the similarly tasteless “house wine” of a faux-Italian restaurant adorned with red-and-white checkered tablecloths.

Truth is, a good Soave is a fine choice for everyday drinking, as it can be fresh and vibrant, accentuating the flavors of a dish without overpowering it. The problem, of course, is figuring out which Soave is worth buying, and which are best left to the amateurs.

The “secrets” to buying Soave is this: 1. don’t buy it if it comes in a double magnum, or larger, bottle; 2. don’t buy it if it costs less than seven bucks; 3. don’t buy it if there’s no vintage listed. In other words, find a Soave in a standard 750ml bottle, costing at least $7, and which includes a vintage date — preferably within the last year or two.

One such gem among the trash is Masi Soave Classico “Levarie”.

Mild, almost closed nose of pear, spice, and an herbal / green / unripe component. Smooth as glass texture on the palate. Acidity is more mild than expected, but enough for matching with simple dishes. Limey citrus and mineral flavors dominate the finish, which is mellow and pleasing.

This is a perfect alternative for the crowd that drinks Pinot Grigio by itself, as it gives similarly easy drinking, fruity with a touch of mineral character but without the mouthwatering acidic edge.

If you’re looking for an over-the-top, overripe wine that’s bursting with fruit and commanding your attention, don’t buy this wine. If, however, you’d like a true Soave –subtle, easydrinking, a wine that like a popular person is able to ‘blend in’ and get along with just about everything, then pick up a few of these bottles for your entertaining. Drink this by itself as an apertif, with simple appetizers, and with all kinds of mildly seasoned fish, vegetables, and pasta salads. It’s also a fine foil for spicy foods, such as hot wings and Asian cuisine. A good quaffing wine – something you don’t have to think about, yet so enjoyable you will want to remember the name and label to buy it again.

a-7 t-7 b-9 fc-9 v-7 ~ 89 Points

Importer: Remy USA

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Vinos Sin-Ley G2 Garnacha D.O. Monstat 2005

Vinos Sin Ley translates to “wines without law”. This is an interesting winery, created by two bright winemakers who have added additional enologists to their group and are focused on making high-quality, value-oriented wines. They produce wines that retail from seven to thirty bucks, with the bulk of the assortment under $13. Macintosh users will be comfortable with their Garnacha range, which is named G1, G2, G3, G4, ,G5, and G6 (prices raise as the G-number increases).

Bright, ripe, open nose of red and black berries, earth, tar, hint of tobacco. In the mouth you get juicy, almost candylike (jolly rancher) wild berry flavors, along with mild earth, a touch of tar and sweet tobacco. Clean, with a polished, smooth texture. Acidity and tannins are mild, making this a better match for lean meats and fish rather than fatty beef and cheesy plates. Enjoyable on its own as well – fine for a cocktail quaffer. This is an enjoyable, easy drinking wine with more complexity than you’d expect from an under-$10 bottle. Great value.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-10 ~ 90 Points

Importer: Ole Imports

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Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi 2004

This is one of those wines that likely gets killed in the sterile sanctum of a big wine magazine tasting room — tasted all alone, without food. Because in fact it is mediocre at best when imbibed solo. However, ten-dollar Chianti is not meant to be a wine to be contemplated by the fire. Rather, Chianti — and specifically low-priced Chianti — is supposed to be a daily drinker at the dinner table. And this wine passes the table test with flying colors.

Mild black fruit, pepper, and unidentified herb aromas barely beget interest, but the sour red and black cherry flavors on the palate are an ideal match for marinara sauce. Acidity is appropriately high: tart and drying to the hungry palate, but a perfect partner to a mouth filled with food. A clean and easy quaffer, and versatile enough for a variety of victuals. As mentioned previously, don’t drink it by itself. But do partake it on the table, with spaghetti, chicken parm, meatballs, eggplant, or anything else drowned in marinara or other red sauce. Will be equally interesting paired with high-acid or fatty dishes, so try it with tomato-based preparations (chicken cacciatore?), fatty foods, and anything dominated by cheese (mac and cheese, hunks of parm-reggiano, grilled cheese and tomato).

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-9 v-9 ~ 89 Points

Importer: Neil Empson

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Could there be a better time of year?

The weather is perfect, school is nearly out, baseball season’s in full swing, and the rose wines have arrived.

If you’ve never been “tickled pink” by the youthful selections available in your local wine shop during the late spring, this year is as good a time as any to start trying rose-colored wines through crystal-clear glasses. An ideal bottle to begin with is this Provencal example: Mas de Gourgonnier Rose Les Baux de Provence 2006 — a consistently tasty pink wine and one of my annual favorites.

Made from about 60% Grenache and completed with a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the color is a bright, dark pink, almost cherry. Though the nose will eventually open up, right now, it is somewhat subdued, offering just a hint of strawberry and pear, belying the vibrant, bright fruit you get in the mouth. Flavors of fresh strawberry, pear, sweet pink grapefruit, cranberry, watermelon, pomegranate, a touch of citrus, and red currant dance on the palate, carried by a good edge of racy acidity and juicy, mild tannins. The finish is very pleasant and fairly well balanced, eventually leaving lingering tastes of sour red cherry, red currants, pomegranate, and a hint of strawberry. A perfect match for food, enjoy it with spicy foods, Indian cuisine, salads, fish, chicken, pork, bbq ribs or bbq chicken — just about anything. As with most quality rose wines, don’t drink this too cold, or you’ll miss all the fun. At about twelve bucks, this is a good value.

a-7 t-7 b-10 fc-10 v-8 ~ 92 points

Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines

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Ideally, wine is made for food – though mass production wineries that make superripe, sickly sweet, fat fruit bombs would like you to think differently. One of my favorite white wines for food is Vermentino – a wine that may as well be unknown among all but the most advanced of wine geeks.

Contrary to what you might think, Vermentino is not what an Italian woman screams when she sees a rat run across a Florentine piazza. Rather, Vermentino is a grape that produces white wine – the best of which come from Sardinia (Sardegna).

Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino is one of the best examples of the varietal you will find easily in the United States. It is fresh, clean, and ripe, expressing pear, peach, spice (cardamom? vanilla?), and a touch of grapefruit on both the nose and the palate. It also has hints of lemony citrus, mineral, and herbaceous flavors, and is held up with a good edge of racy acidity. Texture is smooth, almost creamy. Though it appears to be a simple, light and refreshing wine when ice cold, if you let it warm a bit you’ll find it is actually rich and complex. Fairly unique, I’d say it’s what you would get if you crossed a rich Chablis Premier Cru with a Pouilly Fume. Drink it with almost any appetizers, smoked fish, cured meats, seafood, poultry, pork, or spicy foods. It also cuts right through overly garlicky dishes, such as what you might find in Greek cuisine. A winner in every way, and a good value at around $11.99. Buy as fresh a vintage as possible (2005 is current).

a-8 t-8 b-10 fc-10 v-8 ~ 94 Points

Importer: Winebow

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Zeta Garnacha 2005

Navarra, Spain

A few things made me buy this bottle. First, the striking, shiny red and silver label caught my eye and insisted attention. I know, I know, you can’t judge a wine by its package any more than a book by its cover, but it seemed to be screaming for me to take off the shelf and hold in my hand.

Once I picked up the bottle and studied the label, I liked the idea that it was from Navarra, Spain, as that region has proven time and time again to be a hotbed of red wines with a favorable quality:price ratio. Finally, I saw it was brought in by Weygandt-Metzler, who is one of those smaller importers that you can count on for getting your money’s worth. Alas, I was not disappointed (who says “alas” these days, by the way?)

An open nose of earth, berries, black fruits, and spice suggests a juicy wine, and indeed that’s what you get on the palate. Lots of forward, jammy black and red berry fruit fill the palate upfront, and remain in good balance as a gush of ripe tannins and ample acidity follow the fruit and provide good structure. It’s a touch hot at the very end, but otherwise provides a tight bundle of jammy fruit, earth, and spices from start to finish. A good match for lean red meat, ground-turkey based burgers and sloppy joe’s, mild chili, tacos, and cheeses.

A great wine? Not by a longshot. But for about eight or nine bucks, it’s a fine value.

a-8 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 85 Points

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Sometimes it’s really nice to open up a bottle of wine you don’t have to think about. Just uncork, pour, and sip with whatever you’re having, and know it will manage just fine regardless of whether you have a rack of lamb or mac and cheese on your plate.

Naturally, if you go to the trouble and expense of roasting a rack of lamb, you’ll probably spend similar time and money on a wine. So really I’m talking more about the other side of the spectrum: the mac and cheese, tacos, pizza, and similarly cheap, quick, and easy meals. Do you really need to stare at your wine rack, trying to figure out which vintage of cru bourgeoise will match with the Ortega taco sauce? Of course not.

That’s why there are wines such as El Paseo Red, a 100% Tempranillo from the Valencia region of Spain. Its bright and colorful label evokes the same fun and thoughtlessness that’s inside the bottle. Pour it into a glass and you immediately enjoy aromas of plum and jam with hints of earth and spice, followed by a fruit-forward palate filled with red and purple fruit flavors: grape jam, mild earth, black pepper, and overripe / cooked berries. Acidity and tannins are medium, balancing out the fruit. A touch hot with alcohol in the finish, but not so much to be a turn-off. Ripe raspberry and a touch of vanilla spice in the finish. The acid and tannin levels are just enough to make this a good food wine. It will match well with a variety of meats, grilled dishes, simple fare (burgers, mac and cheese, etc.).

Bottom line: it’s a simple red wine at an appropriately low price (about seven or eight bucks, or less). A decent “everyday” table wine, and/or a good choice for adding to sauces, gravies, and marinades. And nothing to think about.

a-6 t-6 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 86 points

US Importer: Precept Brands | Winery website: El Paseo

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How often can you find a Barbera from Piedmont under ten bucks? And would you believe it would be any good?

Once again Vias Imports delivers a great wine value from Italy, this time it’s Castelvero Barbera.

The wine comes from a high-altitude (about 1200 ft.) vineyard in the Monferrato hills of Piedmont, is fermented in stainless steel, sees no oak, but does get a malolactic treatment, for those who want to sound smart when chatting about it. The lack of oak allows the pure, clean Barbera fruit to come out in the wine — which for me is a positive.

That pure fruit is immediately noticed in Castelvero Barbera’s perfumey, open nose, which bursts with red cherries, black raspberry, hints of spice and earth. The palate has ripe black and red cherry fruit, raspberry, touches of cranberry and spice, all delivered on a smooth texture. Gushing, mouthwatering acidity and soft tannins add to the structure and help with food compatibility. It’s well balanced through the finish, which is longer than expected and includes both red and black berry fruits. Match it with pasta in marinara and other red-sauce dishes, grilled or blackened poultry, meaty fish (salmon, trout, blackened catfish), mild cheeses, mac and cheese. This is a really nice red wine for the price: soft and easy drinking, yet complex enough to be enjoyable and matchable with a variety of foods. Great Value and an Everyday Wine.

A-7 t-7 b-8 fc-10 v-10 ~ 92 Points

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This wine could have been the result of Southern rap (Ludacris) meeting punk rock (Sid Vicious) … but, in reality this wine has nothing to do with either.

Looking again at the label, you might think “oh great, another Pinot!”. Wrong there too … it’s actually “Pinol” … but you’re getting warmer. But hey, there’s no reason you can’t say this is a “Pinol from Spain” — and let the uninformed think it’s Pinot Noir.

Pinol is actually not a grape, but the name of a family owning a winery (Vinos Pinol) in a little town in Spain called Batea, within the region of Terra Alta. This is a significant fact of geography, because Batea is in what is called “Zone 5″, and just a hop, skip, and jump away from Priorat, which is a Spanish wine region that produces world-class wines that no one with a nose in Napa Cab has ever heard of. Which is just as well — allow geeks of Spanish wine to continue getting great deals.

Back to Ludovicus �

The grapes in this wine are Garnacha (35%), Tempranillo (30%), Syrah (25%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) — and all can be perceived on the nose, which is vibrant, open, and full of ripe black and red fruits, earth, tar, tobacco, and vanilla.

The palate has similar characteristics: wide open, forward, upfront ripe black berry fruit is immediate on the palate, and is followed by spicy vanilla notes before finishing with a mixture of fruit, earth, black pepper, and tobacco. Everything is held together with ripe, mild to medium tannins and mild to medium acidity. By itself, it is interesting and borderline contemplative. With food, its upfront ripe fruit and structure has enough to match with burgers, mac and cheese, leaner meats, such as roast turkey and chicken, turkey or tofu burgers, gamey fish, and grilled vegetables. This might be a bargain bottle for Thanksgiving dinner, and at around $9 qualifies in my book as an Everyday Wine and Great Value.

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-7 v-9 ~ 87 points

By the way, thanks to David Ogilvie of Purple Lips Wine Log for the bottle photo of Vinos Pinol Ludovicus you see here. He also reviewed this wine, if you’d like to get another person’s opinion.

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Vinos Pinol Ludovicus 2005 from Wine.com

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While it’s obvious that most wines are made from grapes, it’s uncommon for a pontificator such as myself to describe one as “grapey” … we wine snobs and scribes are more apt to attach descriptors such as “forest-floor earthiness”, “musky feral aromas”, “baritone richness”, and my recent favorite, “umami character” (you can’t make this stuff up!).

However, I’m going to go against the grain and say that Vina Alarba Grenache is simply, “grapey”. It smells grapey and tastes grapey — as in grape juice or grape jelly.

It’s more than that actually … the grapey-ness (is that a word?) is part of the open, ripe fruit aroma that also has a hint of red licorice. In the mouth you get the same grape jelly character along with red licorice and similar candylike flavors upfront, held together by mild to medium acidity and mild tannins that give enough structure to match with a wide variety of foods. Despite the perceived sweetness — which by the way makes in an excellent match for roast duck with plum sauce, and meats doused in BBQ sauce — the wine finishes dry, with a balanced aftertaste.

In some ways it reminds me of Beaujolais Nouveau … only, a Nouveau with more structure, seriousness, and length. Though a wine connoisseur with a cellar full of Bordeaux would likely scoff at this wine, it has its place with those of us who have an appreciation for solid wines under seven dollars. Match it with the suggestions above, Mexican fare, and non-snobbish appetizers (i.e., pigs in blankets, “port wine” cheese, hot poppers). This wine also qualifies as an excellent introduction to the “white wine only” crowd.

a-6 t-6 b-6 fc-7 v-10 ~ 85 points

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One of my favorite varietals in the world is Barbera, particularly from the Piedmont region of Italy, and specifically from the areas of Asti, Alba, and Monferrato. The nice thing about Barbera imported from Italy is that, generally speaking, you get what you pay for, and there are excellent bottles starting around 12 bucks all the way through around forty, With my meager salary, I tend to stay in the under-$20 range, and there are plenty of good values to choose from. At the same time, I’m always on the lookout for an Italian Barbera at ten bucks or less. They’re hard to find, but usually worth my hard-earned dollars.

So when I saw this bottle from Suri for $9.99, I pounced on it. It’s made by a winery called Villa Giada, which is located in the middle of Piedmont, somewhere between Alba and Asti (technically, this wine is a Barbera d’Asti). Winemaker Andrea Faccio ferments the juice in stainless steel and allows it to go through a full malolactic (this is geek talk for a second fermentation, whereby malic acid is converted to lactic acid, and the result is a smoother, rounder, mouthfeel). Though not the best Barbera I’ve ever tasted, it did not disappoint. The nose is slightly subdued, and not a good hint at what the palate offers. I got some earthy, herbal aromas, with hints of black cherry layered below. In the mouth, however, I was welcomed by bright, fresh flavors of black cherry and black raspberry. This wine is ripe and full, balanced by mild acidity and mild, ripe tannins. It finishes with harmony, no one element overpowering the other. I enjoyed it on its own, and as a match for Manwich-brand sloppy joes. It will go just as well with pasta in meat sauce or marinara, burgers, tacos, mac and cheese, pizza, and any dish that includes a tomato-based sauce.

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One of my favorite wine regions in the world is Tuscany, Italy, the home of, among others, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Morellino di Scansano. Perhaps the reason Tuscan wines tug at my heartstrings is all the Sangiovese flowing. Sangiovese-based wines tend to be high in acidity, yet tempered with tannins, and bursting with ripe cherry fruit; all these elements combine to create a wine that matches perfectly with all kinds of foods.

As such, I’m always on the lookout for a solid, Sangiovese-based, Tuscan wine — and am a sucker for one that retails around ten bucks. So, when I saw this bottle from Badia a Coltibuono, I made a quick snatch from the shelf and ran to the register.

One whiff of Cancelli greets you with attractive red berry, black cherry, and earthy aromas. Hints of menthol and spice add to a lovely, complex nose. In the mouth it is soft and fruity, as flavors of black cherry, black raspberry dominate. Mild, sweet earth components round out the palate. The texture is smooth, almost silky; surprising for a ten-dollar wine. Acidity is mild to medium, but lower than expected from a Tuscan Sangiovese-based wine. Tannins are also mild. Overall it is well-balanced with a pleasant finish. Interesting on its own, it may not have the acidity to match with cheesy dishes, but will do fine with white meats, meaty fish, and meatless marinara sauce.

This wine is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Syrah, an unusual mix for Tuscany. Badia a Coltibuono does not bottle a bad wine; you will always receive quality commensurate to the dollars you spend on this brand (a ten-dollar wine will taste like it should cost ten bucks, and a 30-dollar bottle will not disappoint for the amount you’re shelling out). A truly enjoyable wine, soft yet structured, fruity yet earthy. A smash hit for Coltibuono and an Everyday Wine for the dinner table.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-9 ~ 91 Points

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9.99

N: Smokey, earthy, with black berry fruits, black pepper, and mild tobacco.

P: Good acidity and mild to medium tannins open the door to ripe black berry fruit and hints of earth. Well-structured, a perfect wine for food as the acidity will stand up to many dishes and the flavor is good but not overpowering. Earthy, vegetal flavors wrap up the finish, which includes a touch of alcohol.

This is a good, sturdy “bistro” wine that will match well with burgers, mac and cheese, bangers and mash, and similarly “blue collar” fare. The 2000 is considered an “old” vintage now but it is still vibrant, fresh, and full. An excellent value at under ten bucks.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-10 v-9 = 91 points

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Or follow this link to buy this wine from Wine.com: Delas 2003 St. Esprit Cotes-du-Rhone Rouge

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Ten or fifteen years ago, Australia was land of wine values … until “New World” wines became in vogue and prices skyrocketed. Then the great unknown red wine values came from Chile and Argentina; however that secret is out as well and the prices of South American wines have gone up steadily as people discovered how good there are. The next great secret from the Southern Hemisphere may well be from South Africa, which is best known for the band-aid wine, Pinotage, but also produces other fine reds at affordable prices. For example, this Cabernet Sauvignon from Robertson Winery. If Australia still made a wine under ten bucks, this is what it would taste like.

Nose: Rich, full, wide open, complex nose of ripe red and black berry fruits, earth, menthol, tobacco, and spice.

Palate: Rich, full ripe fruit upfront, with some earth and vanilla spice. Smooth texture, a touch hot in the finish, which turns to grapey cassis in flavor. Has decent acidity and mild to medium tannins, but not quite enough structure to stand up to a cheeseburger. Will be more enjoyable on its own or with not-as-fatty dishes.

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Another Great White Wine Value from Spain

Real deal price: $7.99

A few weeks back you read about Las Brisas Rueda, a white wine from an area in Spain northwest of Madrid. That wine made enough of an impression on my palate to try another white from the same region: Basa Rueda Blanco. Once again, an excellent white wine value has been discovered.

Basa Rueda has a vibrant nose of green unripe fruit with a distinct grassiness characteristic of Sauvignon Blanc. That shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise, as Sauvignon is planted in the DO Rueda region and is part of this wine’s blend (it also contains Spain’s own Verdejo and Viura).
Sour granny smith apple, zesty lime/citrus, and a slightly grassy/vegetal element mark the flavor of this wine, which has a gush of tart acidity and a crystal clean finish. Actually the finish reminds me of original flavor Gatorade gum: limey citrus flavor with a chalky, thirst quenching tartness. Alcohol is mild, hardly noticeable, yet the wine has surprising body for a light white. Drink it ice cold as a refreshing aperitif, or match with simply prepared white meats (poultry, pork), vegan dishes, mildly seasoned salads.

For the geeks (and conversation): Basa Rueda’s winemaker is Telmo Rodriguez, considered by many wine experts to be Spain’s up-and-coming enologist. A few things make him special, notably his dedication to preserving the terroir in wines and believing that winemaking begins in the vineyard. As a result, he chooses indigenous grapes from old vines that produce extremely low yields. He’s also a proponent of biodynamic methods; in other words, using natural / organic products in growing vines. Biodynamism leads to wines that achieve a pure, true expression of their place of origin.

Score: 91 points
a-8 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-10

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A Wine for the Summer

OK, summer is nearing an end (at least, in the Northern Hemisphere) , but there are still plenty of hot days, nights, and barbecues coming that beg for a crisp, refreshing white wine. That said, herewith you are presented a wine review for Las Brisas, a Spanish white that is ideal for summer enjoyment.

The wine is a DO Rueda, which means that it comes from the Rueda region of Spain. Rueda is in the central part of Spain, northwest of Madrid and southwest of Ribera del Duero. The chalky soils there are conducive to dry, minerally whites; the main grapes grown are Verdejo (or Verdeho), Viura, and to a lesser extent, Sauvignon Blanc. This particular Rueda is brought into the US by Tempranillo Imports and a “Jorge Ordonez Selection” — when you see that name, it is usually a good wine.

Las Brisas has a wide open, ripe array of fruity and grassy aromas that attack the nose on first sniff. In the mouth it is a bright, open, colorfully fruitful and refreshing white wine filled with gobs of ripe white fruits: green grapes, white peach, apricot, pear, granny smith apple, grapefruit, and lime-y citrus. It�s juicy and crisp at the same time; it may as well be a glass of fruit salad. An excellent edge of acidity makes it a great match for white meats and seafood, and doubles as a thirst quencher. A slight touch of perceived peachy sweetness makes it a good foil for hot and spicy dishes. This is a great choice for a summer barbecue; also a great “segue” wine for those trying to escape white zindom and enter the world of real fine wine.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-8

Wine Rating: 89 points

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Follow this link to purchase this wine through Wine.com: Las Brisas 2005 Blanc

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Real deal price: 8.99

N: Wide-open, superripe berry fruit. Blackberries, raspberries, boysenberries.

P: Upfront ripe berry fruit. Chunks of blackberry, black cherry, and vanilla oak, with a line of chocolate licorice. Smooth texture. Drying acidity in the midpalate and sweet ripe tannins in the finish, which is attractive and longer than expected. Matched nicely with turkey tacos, should do well with other Mexican dishes, mild Indian cuisine, and simple fare such as burgers and barbecue chicken.

In some areas of the country, you may find this at 5.99 or 6.99, in which case it is an absolute steal.

A-8 T-8 B-8 FC-8 V-10

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Last night after enjoying two glasses of Cantele Primitivo 2002, I (synthetically) corked it back up and put it in the fridge. Tonight I enjoyed two more glasses, and pleased to report that the wine was just as good, possibly better, than last night. Not bad for a seven-dollar wine!

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