Domaine d’ Andezon Cotes du Rhone 2004

It’s autumn in the Northern Hemisphere and that means it’s time to start transitioning from the heat of summer to the cold of winter. Oh, and from the light, crisp, cold white wines to the heavier bodied, warm red wines — to match the richer, warmer dishes and “comfort foods” people tend to enjoy more as the weather gets chilly. One wine that seems to go hand in hand with the fall season is Cotes du Rhone, a hearty red wine from the southern Rhone region of France.

Cotes-du-Rhone (COAT- duh – RONE) — or “CDR” for short — is found under many brand names, and usually a blend dominated by the grapes Syrah and Grenache (although several other grapes can be contained, including but not limited to Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Carignane). The grapes can be harvested from all over the Rhone region, though most come from the southern part of the region. Many wineries make both a red version and a white version (the white usually includes Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and/or Grenache Blanc), but the reds are much more popular in the States.

It used to be that CDRs were heavy, fairly tannic wines that would match well only with high-protein foods. However, the Cotes-du-Rhones on the shelf today are for the most part more lively, fruity, and fun compared to their ancestors. You may hear some Frenchmen refer to CDR as a “bistro wine”, because it will go with a number of simple dishes you might find on the menu of a French bistro — such as hamburger, mac and cheese, meat pies, stews, braises, roast chicken, etc.

Tasting Notes

This particular bottle is from Domaine d’Andezon, which is a 25-acre estate in the village of Estezargues, situated on the southwestern edge of the Rhone Valley delta. Included in the vineyards are low-yielding Syrah vines that are up to 100 years old (that’s a big deal; old vines mean longer roots, which many people think deliver more complexity to the fruit).

Fresh, bright, ripe red berry flavors dominate the nose and palate, along with some black berry, earth, and pepper. Red raspberry, black raspberry, black cherry, a touch of red licorice are some of the flavors I get. Very clean, with a smooth texture. Acidity and tannins are equal, and somewhere between mild and medium intensity. This wine is rich and mouthfilling enough to be very appealing on its own, and is even better with food.

Drink this with burgers, stews, shepherd’s pie, pot roast, and similar “bistro” dishes.

A solid wine, a good choice as an everyday red for the dinner table. At less than ten bucks, a good value.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Importer: Eric Solomon Selections / European Wine Cellars

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Fattoria San Fabiano Chianti Putto 2004

Chianti has been, and remains, one of my favorite “fall back” wines — a bottle I can open with almost anything, and because of the relatively inexpensive cost, not feel guilty about uncorking to match with a simple everyday meal.

That said, I’m constantly on the lookout for a reasonably priced ($10-$15), quality Chianti. Notice I didn’t say “Chianti Riserva” or “single vineyard” Chianti — these tend to cost upwards of twenty to thirty dollars or more, and deserve to be contemplated over a hunk of grana or a Tuscan-grilled steak or homemade meatballs and marinara. What I’m referring to here is a simple, easy drinking Chianti that will be enjoyable with, say, a slice of pizza or pasta with jar-made sauce.

As usual, my favorite Italian importer Vias comes through with a good bang-for-the-buck bottle, San Fabiano Chianti “Putto”. It’s made from a somewhat traditional Chianti blend — 60% Sangiovese, 20% Malvasia Nera, 10% Cannaiolo, 10% Ciliegiolo 20% Malvasia Toscana — something we’re seeing less and less of since the Consorzio began allowing up to 100% Sangiovese in Chianti Classico DOCG.

San Fabiano Tasting Notes

Good black cherry character, good acidity, well balanced, smooth enough texture, easy going finish. Matches well with all types of food. For about ten bucks, you can’t go wrong. Added bonus: it passed the “two night test” ; it drank nearly as well after being recorked (half bottle left, no carbonation) and poured again the next evening. Match it with pizza, pasta and marinara, mac and cheese, cured meats (i.e., antipasti plate), and similarly simple dishes.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 88 Points

Importer: Vias Wine

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Castello di Farnetella Chianti Colli Senesi 2004

This is one of those wines that likely gets killed in the sterile sanctum of a big wine magazine tasting room — tasted all alone, without food. Because in fact it is mediocre at best when imbibed solo. However, ten-dollar Chianti is not meant to be a wine to be contemplated by the fire. Rather, Chianti — and specifically low-priced Chianti — is supposed to be a daily drinker at the dinner table. And this wine passes the table test with flying colors.

Mild black fruit, pepper, and unidentified herb aromas barely beget interest, but the sour red and black cherry flavors on the palate are an ideal match for marinara sauce. Acidity is appropriately high: tart and drying to the hungry palate, but a perfect partner to a mouth filled with food. A clean and easy quaffer, and versatile enough for a variety of victuals. As mentioned previously, don’t drink it by itself. But do partake it on the table, with spaghetti, chicken parm, meatballs, eggplant, or anything else drowned in marinara or other red sauce. Will be equally interesting paired with high-acid or fatty dishes, so try it with tomato-based preparations (chicken cacciatore?), fatty foods, and anything dominated by cheese (mac and cheese, hunks of parm-reggiano, grilled cheese and tomato).

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-9 v-9 ~ 89 Points

Importer: Neil Empson

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Zeta Garnacha 2005

Navarra, Spain

A few things made me buy this bottle. First, the striking, shiny red and silver label caught my eye and insisted attention. I know, I know, you can’t judge a wine by its package any more than a book by its cover, but it seemed to be screaming for me to take off the shelf and hold in my hand.

Once I picked up the bottle and studied the label, I liked the idea that it was from Navarra, Spain, as that region has proven time and time again to be a hotbed of red wines with a favorable quality:price ratio. Finally, I saw it was brought in by Weygandt-Metzler, who is one of those smaller importers that you can count on for getting your money’s worth. Alas, I was not disappointed (who says “alas” these days, by the way?)

An open nose of earth, berries, black fruits, and spice suggests a juicy wine, and indeed that’s what you get on the palate. Lots of forward, jammy black and red berry fruit fill the palate upfront, and remain in good balance as a gush of ripe tannins and ample acidity follow the fruit and provide good structure. It’s a touch hot at the very end, but otherwise provides a tight bundle of jammy fruit, earth, and spices from start to finish. A good match for lean red meat, ground-turkey based burgers and sloppy joe’s, mild chili, tacos, and cheeses.

A great wine? Not by a longshot. But for about eight or nine bucks, it’s a fine value.

a-8 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 85 Points

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Sometimes it’s really nice to open up a bottle of wine you don’t have to think about. Just uncork, pour, and sip with whatever you’re having, and know it will manage just fine regardless of whether you have a rack of lamb or mac and cheese on your plate.

Naturally, if you go to the trouble and expense of roasting a rack of lamb, you’ll probably spend similar time and money on a wine. So really I’m talking more about the other side of the spectrum: the mac and cheese, tacos, pizza, and similarly cheap, quick, and easy meals. Do you really need to stare at your wine rack, trying to figure out which vintage of cru bourgeoise will match with the Ortega taco sauce? Of course not.

That’s why there are wines such as El Paseo Red, a 100% Tempranillo from the Valencia region of Spain. Its bright and colorful label evokes the same fun and thoughtlessness that’s inside the bottle. Pour it into a glass and you immediately enjoy aromas of plum and jam with hints of earth and spice, followed by a fruit-forward palate filled with red and purple fruit flavors: grape jam, mild earth, black pepper, and overripe / cooked berries. Acidity and tannins are medium, balancing out the fruit. A touch hot with alcohol in the finish, but not so much to be a turn-off. Ripe raspberry and a touch of vanilla spice in the finish. The acid and tannin levels are just enough to make this a good food wine. It will match well with a variety of meats, grilled dishes, simple fare (burgers, mac and cheese, etc.).

Bottom line: it’s a simple red wine at an appropriately low price (about seven or eight bucks, or less). A decent “everyday” table wine, and/or a good choice for adding to sauces, gravies, and marinades. And nothing to think about.

a-6 t-6 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 86 points

US Importer: Precept Brands | Winery website: El Paseo

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