Masi Soave Classico “Levarie” 2005
Soave gets a bad rap, mainly because most people associate it with the big 1.5- or 3.0-liter bottles filled with insipid, watery juice from mass-market producers, or the similarly tasteless “house wine” of a faux-Italian restaurant adorned with red-and-white checkered tablecloths.
Truth is, a good Soave is a fine choice for everyday drinking, as it can be fresh and vibrant, accentuating the flavors of a dish without overpowering it. The problem, of course, is figuring out which Soave is worth buying, and which are best left to the amateurs.
The “secrets” to buying Soave is this: 1. don’t buy it if it comes in a double magnum, or larger, bottle; 2. don’t buy it if it costs less than seven bucks; 3. don’t buy it if there’s no vintage listed. In other words, find a Soave in a standard 750ml bottle, costing at least $7, and which includes a vintage date — preferably within the last year or two.
One such gem among the trash is Masi Soave Classico “Levarie”.
Mild, almost closed nose of pear, spice, and an herbal / green / unripe component. Smooth as glass texture on the palate. Acidity is more mild than expected, but enough for matching with simple dishes. Limey citrus and mineral flavors dominate the finish, which is mellow and pleasing.
This is a perfect alternative for the crowd that drinks Pinot Grigio by itself, as it gives similarly easy drinking, fruity with a touch of mineral character but without the mouthwatering acidic edge.
If you’re looking for an over-the-top, overripe wine that’s bursting with fruit and commanding your attention, don’t buy this wine. If, however, you’d like a true Soave –subtle, easydrinking, a wine that like a popular person is able to ‘blend in’ and get along with just about everything, then pick up a few of these bottles for your entertaining. Drink this by itself as an apertif, with simple appetizers, and with all kinds of mildly seasoned fish, vegetables, and pasta salads. It’s also a fine foil for spicy foods, such as hot wings and Asian cuisine. A good quaffing wine – something you don’t have to think about, yet so enjoyable you will want to remember the name and label to buy it again.
a-7 t-7 b-9 fc-9 v-7 ~ 89 Points
Importer: Remy USA
Find this wine at a retailer through Wine-Searcher
Vinos Sin Ley translates to “wines without law”. This is an interesting winery, created by two bright winemakers who have added additional enologists to their group and are focused on making high-quality, value-oriented wines. They produce wines that retail from seven to thirty bucks, with the bulk of the assortment under $13. Macintosh users will be comfortable with their Garnacha range, which is named G1, G2, G3, G4, ,G5, and G6 (prices raise as the G-number increases). 
This is one of those wines that likely gets killed in the sterile sanctum of a big wine magazine tasting room — tasted all alone, without food. Because in fact it is mediocre at best when imbibed solo. However, ten-dollar Chianti is not meant to be a wine to be contemplated by the fire. Rather, Chianti — and specifically low-priced Chianti — is supposed to be a daily drinker at the dinner table. And this wine passes the table test with flying colors.
Could there be a better time of year?
Ideally, wine is made for food – though mass production wineries that make superripe, sickly sweet, fat fruit bombs would like you to think differently. One of my favorite white wines for food is Vermentino – a wine that may as well be unknown among all but the most advanced of wine geeks.