September 2006

While it’s obvious that most wines are made from grapes, it’s uncommon for a pontificator such as myself to describe one as “grapey” … we wine snobs and scribes are more apt to attach descriptors such as “forest-floor earthiness”, “musky feral aromas”, “baritone richness”, and my recent favorite, “umami character” (you can’t make this stuff up!).

However, I’m going to go against the grain and say that Vina Alarba Grenache is simply, “grapey”. It smells grapey and tastes grapey — as in grape juice or grape jelly.

It’s more than that actually … the grapey-ness (is that a word?) is part of the open, ripe fruit aroma that also has a hint of red licorice. In the mouth you get the same grape jelly character along with red licorice and similar candylike flavors upfront, held together by mild to medium acidity and mild tannins that give enough structure to match with a wide variety of foods. Despite the perceived sweetness — which by the way makes in an excellent match for roast duck with plum sauce, and meats doused in BBQ sauce — the wine finishes dry, with a balanced aftertaste.

In some ways it reminds me of Beaujolais Nouveau … only, a Nouveau with more structure, seriousness, and length. Though a wine connoisseur with a cellar full of Bordeaux would likely scoff at this wine, it has its place with those of us who have an appreciation for solid wines under seven dollars. Match it with the suggestions above, Mexican fare, and non-snobbish appetizers (i.e., pigs in blankets, “port wine” cheese, hot poppers). This wine also qualifies as an excellent introduction to the “white wine only” crowd.

a-6 t-6 b-6 fc-7 v-10 ~ 85 points

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Folks in the NYC area may want to attend this Champagne tasting to benefit the Living Beyond Breast Cancer organization. The event — sponsored by Riedel Crystal — takes place on September 27th (next week!) from 5pm to 8pm at New York’s hottest Greek restaurant, Parea, on 36 East 20th St.

Besides benefitting a great cause, you will have the chance to taste top Champagnes from major houses such as Moet & Chandon, Gosset, Mumm, Perrier-Jouet, and Pommery — to name a few.

In addition, Maximilian Riedel of Riedel Crystal America will be at the event to premiere Riedel’s new, Pink, “O” Champagne glass — the sales of which will benefit charity. If you’ve seen / used the new “O” series, you know they’re pretty cool; they have no stems (which is a problem for people who want to look good sticking their pinky out when holding their glass).

All guests will receive a free “O” glass to taste the Champagnes, and you’ll get to sample Parea’s great hors d’oeuvres.

If you can get to this event, do it … it’s not often you get a chance to taste so many awesome Champagnes at one time. It will be a great chance to do real comparison tasting between bubbles … and you’ll be helping the Living Beyond Breast Cancer as well (see their website at www.lbbc.org). Who knows, you might even bump into Vino Joe at the event!

Contact the LBBC at 610-645-4567 or email Marcia@lbbc.org for tickets. Get the tickets in advance and they’re only $150; otherwise you’ll pay $175 at the door. Considering that it would cost a heckuva lot more for you to buy and uncork all of the Champagnes you’ll have the opportunity to taste (not to mention the high-class eats), this is a bargain.

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One of my favorite varietals in the world is Barbera, particularly from the Piedmont region of Italy, and specifically from the areas of Asti, Alba, and Monferrato. The nice thing about Barbera imported from Italy is that, generally speaking, you get what you pay for, and there are excellent bottles starting around 12 bucks all the way through around forty, With my meager salary, I tend to stay in the under-$20 range, and there are plenty of good values to choose from. At the same time, I’m always on the lookout for an Italian Barbera at ten bucks or less. They’re hard to find, but usually worth my hard-earned dollars.

So when I saw this bottle from Suri for $9.99, I pounced on it. It’s made by a winery called Villa Giada, which is located in the middle of Piedmont, somewhere between Alba and Asti (technically, this wine is a Barbera d’Asti). Winemaker Andrea Faccio ferments the juice in stainless steel and allows it to go through a full malolactic (this is geek talk for a second fermentation, whereby malic acid is converted to lactic acid, and the result is a smoother, rounder, mouthfeel). Though not the best Barbera I’ve ever tasted, it did not disappoint. The nose is slightly subdued, and not a good hint at what the palate offers. I got some earthy, herbal aromas, with hints of black cherry layered below. In the mouth, however, I was welcomed by bright, fresh flavors of black cherry and black raspberry. This wine is ripe and full, balanced by mild acidity and mild, ripe tannins. It finishes with harmony, no one element overpowering the other. I enjoyed it on its own, and as a match for Manwich-brand sloppy joes. It will go just as well with pasta in meat sauce or marinara, burgers, tacos, mac and cheese, pizza, and any dish that includes a tomato-based sauce.

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This post has absolutely nothing to do with wine.

For those of you around the USA who might have liked to see the World Trade Center memorial lights, but weren’t anywhere near New York City, here is a photograph from my digital camera. I apologize for not being a better photographer, and not having a better shot, but this is the angle I had from my home on the Jersey side of the Hudson River.

Feel free to download and share. Contact me if you want the original.

Most importantly, please take a moment to think about the lives lost, the families left behind, the heroes of that day, and the soldiers who continue to give their lives for our country.

And let’s all pray for peace.

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One of my favorite wine regions in the world is Tuscany, Italy, the home of, among others, Chianti Classico, Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and Morellino di Scansano. Perhaps the reason Tuscan wines tug at my heartstrings is all the Sangiovese flowing. Sangiovese-based wines tend to be high in acidity, yet tempered with tannins, and bursting with ripe cherry fruit; all these elements combine to create a wine that matches perfectly with all kinds of foods.

As such, I’m always on the lookout for a solid, Sangiovese-based, Tuscan wine — and am a sucker for one that retails around ten bucks. So, when I saw this bottle from Badia a Coltibuono, I made a quick snatch from the shelf and ran to the register.

One whiff of Cancelli greets you with attractive red berry, black cherry, and earthy aromas. Hints of menthol and spice add to a lovely, complex nose. In the mouth it is soft and fruity, as flavors of black cherry, black raspberry dominate. Mild, sweet earth components round out the palate. The texture is smooth, almost silky; surprising for a ten-dollar wine. Acidity is mild to medium, but lower than expected from a Tuscan Sangiovese-based wine. Tannins are also mild. Overall it is well-balanced with a pleasant finish. Interesting on its own, it may not have the acidity to match with cheesy dishes, but will do fine with white meats, meaty fish, and meatless marinara sauce.

This wine is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Syrah, an unusual mix for Tuscany. Badia a Coltibuono does not bottle a bad wine; you will always receive quality commensurate to the dollars you spend on this brand (a ten-dollar wine will taste like it should cost ten bucks, and a 30-dollar bottle will not disappoint for the amount you’re shelling out). A truly enjoyable wine, soft yet structured, fruity yet earthy. A smash hit for Coltibuono and an Everyday Wine for the dinner table.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-9 ~ 91 Points

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