November 2006

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wine and turkey for thanksgivingYou have two issues when matching wine with the traditional turkey dinner — first, a wine that will go with turkey, and second, a wine that will have a chance to stand up to all the trimmings and various side dishes. Needless to say, this is not an easy task.

Ideally, it would be nice to find one bottle to match with everything. In reality, that’s next to impossible. Of course, much depends on what all the side dishes are — and it seems that every family has a different assortment of “traditional” sides.

Generally speaking, it’s safe to assume that you’ll have roast turkey, cranberry sauce, and stuffing. The turkey and cranberry sauce are fairly consistent across the nation, but the stuffing is where things start to get wild. Many families go with a very simple recipe — made from stale bread, onions, and herbs — while others serve stuffing anointed with sausage, cranberries, oysters, apples, bacon, chestnuts, raisins … the possibilities are seemingly endless.

That said, trying to come up with a list of perfect wines that will match with everything will not be done here. However, I can assure you that every wine suggested here will definitely go with the absolute basics — roast turkey, simple stuffing, and mashed potatoes, and some might even meld with the cranberry sauce. That’s because every one of these wines was tested — and tasted — with turkey roasted with a mild hint of rosemary and thyme (and other herbs commonly used with poultry), Stove Top turkey stuffing (unadulterated, right out of the box), cranberry sauce (Ocean Spray, from the can), baked potato, baked sweet potato (not candied), and creamed pearl onions (just butter and cream, nothing else). This “standard” meal offered a simple laboratory for the wines, and if a wine worked with this “Thanksgiving lab”, it should work well enough for your variation on Turkey Day. Enough gibble-gobble, let’s get on with the wines …

1. Mas Carlot Marsanne Roussanne
Yes, I’m sure there are people out there a little upset that the first-recommended wine is French. Well, get used to it — there happen to be a number of French wines on this list. Don’t worry, there are also several American choices, for those who want to keep the patriotic spirit of Thanksgiving (though, it’s doubtful the pilgrims or the American indians had any American wines on the table back in 1621 … in fact, chances are that any wine at that first meal would have been French).

This is a relatively unusual blend, especially if you’re used to varietal wines such as Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon. However, these two Rhone Valley grapes work well in unison to match with nearly everything on the table, offering a citrusy, spicy flavor, good acidity, and ample body to stand up to the turkey, stuffing, potatoes, onions, and even the cranberry sauce.

2. Ponzi Pinot Gris
This is the first recommendation of several American wines, and like the Mas Carlot, it matches perfectly with just about everything on the table, and has the flexibility to go with many variations of stuffing. Crisp and clean, with good ripe fruit — apple, white peach, and a touch of limey citrus. This particular Pinot Gris is from Oregon, specifically the Willamette Valley (pronounced to rhyme with dammit, as in “Willamette, dammit!”), and if you can’t find this particular brand, I highly recommend Pinot Gris from either Oregon or the Alsace region in France as outstanding choices for Thanksgiving.

3. Atwater Estate Riesling

Another American wine, this one from New York State. A touch of perceived sweetness adds a surprising zing, waking up both the turkey and stuffing. That same sweetness stands up perfectly to the cranberry sauce — no small feat. This is not only a fine match for Turkey Day, but is also a particularly good choice for the very casual wine drinkers — i.e., the ones who are graduating from white zin and Yellowtail. Supplier: Atwater Estate

4. Hedges Cellars CMS White
Yet another American wine, this is another unusual blend, made from 54% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Chardonnay, and 2% Marsanne. Interestingly, a wine made only from any one of these varietals would likely be a good candidate for turkey, so mixing them all together also seems to work nicely. The nose is slightly closed at first, but eventually opens up to emit ripe pear, white peach, and a hint of spice. The palate is very similar — lots of ripe peach, some pear — and has a decent level of acidity. It matches best with the white and dark meat turkey, is hit and miss with the rest.

5. Geyser Peak Sauvignon Blanc
Crisp, clean fruit with good mouthfeel, this is a Sauvignon Blanc that is mostly devoid of the “gooseberry” / “cat pee” aromas that turn so many people off, while still holding to typical Sauvignon Blanc character. Its citrusy flavor matches quite nicely with the white meat, and has enough acidity to hold its own against most of the accompanying foods.

6. Cru Beaujolais - your pick

OK, in this case we have two recommendations — La Roilette Fleurie and Georges Duboeuf Chenas — as their similar flavor profiles were equally complementary to nearly everything on the table. In fact you’ll probably be safe in going with any of a number of Cru Beaujolais bottles. Although every Cru has a distinct character, all are share certain elements in common that make them perfect for the Thanksgiving feast: bright cherry flavors, mild tannins, ample acidity, and the ability to meld well with foods — rarely will a Beaujolais overpower a dish.

7. Ballentine Chenin Blanc
Despite its youth (2004 vintage), it has a slightly oxidized, cooked pear thing going on, which is remarkably reminiscent of a Vernaccia di San Gimignano. It works very well with the white meat, creamed onions, and sweet potato, and hold up well enough against the cranberry sauce. If you can’t find this at a local retailer, it is available for online order from MyWinesDirect.

8. Domaine des Echards Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Beaune

Fresh, bright cherry and cranberry aromas and flavors and smooth texture match well with the turkey and stuffing, and, not surprisingly, goes well with the cranberry sauce. Like Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir is often an ideal match for turkey, and though this particular bottle is under twenty bucks, I suggest that — if you can afford to do so — you spend on the upper end ($40 ++) for a Premier Cru or higher level red Burgundy. It will be well worth the ducats, should match perfectly with the bird, and might even be life-changing. And after all, it’s a holiday, and you’re with the people you love most … what other excuse is there to spend big bucks on a wine?

9. Merryvale Sauvignon Blanc “Starmont”

This one’s a crowd pleaser, with bright ripe white citrus, melon, and spice flavors on the palate, all held together with ample acidity, with none of the typical grassy / gooseberry character. Notes of apple and spice make it taste more like a Chardonnay than a Sauvignon Blanc, and help it to match with more complex stuffing recipes.

10. Dezzani Dolcetto d’Alba
Light- to medium-bodied, very fresh and bright. The aromas and flavors are dominated by black cherry, but also include a hint of mint and rosemary, melding marvelously with the herb-roasted turkey and stuffing. Who knew an Italian wine from Piedmont would be so good with the bird?

So there you have it — ten wines to try with Thanksgiving dinner. You can download and print a handy shopping list here, which includes a simple listing of all of the above wines, as well as a few other suggestions that didn’t quite make the cut.

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Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2006The snobs love to put down Beaujolais Nouveau … as one of my toffee-nosed friends stated recently, “I’ve moved far beyond that gimmicky grape juice”.

Ah, how quickly the leopard changes his spots … that same friend once LOVED Beaujolais Nouveau, even through Easter (!), but now is much too good for it, and would be embarrassed to be seen carrying one of those colorful bottles.

Personally, I don’t love the taste of Beaujolais Nouveau, but have come to appreciate the icon that it has become. Think about it: is there any other universally accepted date in the wine industry than the third Thursday of November? Is there any other wine in the world that brings together so many different people, in events and ceremonies and do-good causes? Yes, Nouveau is an over-hyped public relations event for an under-performing wine — but the only folks complaining are either 1) jealous insiders who can’t think of anything to top it; and 2) pretentious wine geeks who can’t appear powerful and intelligent speaking about such a simple wine.

Nouveau is a hard wine to swallow for some — especially when they can’t pontificate about the mineral content of the vineyard soil, or the debate between Vosges vs. Allier barrels, or malolactic fermentation treatment, or some other information that 99% of the population can care less about. Yes, such a problem — a wine not for thinking, just for drinking.

In the meantime everyone else is having a grand old time uncorking the bottles, pouring it into styrofoam cups (egads!), spilling it on each other, and laughing and enjoying life to the fullest. It is, after all, the “wine without rules“.

For those of you who are interested, I managed to grab a glass of Nouveau just after the stroke of midnight, and scribbled the following notes.

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau 2006

Good color � purple with a bright, dark pink rim.

Nose is open, and clean, expressing bright, fresh strawberry and red cherry, with a touch of ripe banana and a ripe pastry / confection-like aroma (powdered sugar? does that even have a smell?).

In the mouth it is easy, very light, bright, fruity. Tastes a lot like Smuckers raspberry jam, or a cherry-flavored Jolly Rancher, though not quite that sweet (the finish is completely dry). At the very end of what is a longer than expected finish, you get a touch of earth, overripe fruit, and a layer of ripe tannin. The acidity starts to pucker up at the end of the finish; until then, it is mostly obscured by the juicy fruit flavors.

Is this a wine to contemplate � no � and, yes. It�s too simple to pore over, but simple enough to pour over. At the same time, it�s worth analyzing for a few minutes, if only as conjecture for the 2006 Beaujolais vintage. If we are to taste it as a preview to the “real” Beaujolais wines, then this Nouveau tells us that 2006 Beaujolais wines might have more tannin than in a typical year, and be slightly fatter and rounder than we�re used to. The ripe, bright fruit certainly suggests that 2006 will be a fine year, perhaps excellent year, for Cru Beaujolais. If the extra tannins do in fact come out in the spring 2007 releases, then 2006 may cellar longer than most vintages (not an outlandish thought � there are some Cru from the miraculous 2003 vintage that still need time).

After contemplating the possibilities of 2006 Cru Beaujolais, as perceived from this Nouveau, you can then proceed to do with the wine what you may. That includes drinking in paper cups, with ice cubes, mixed with soda, doused on strawberries, poured over your head, and, of course, served to company who “doesn�t like red wine”.

Furthermore, it is a good choice for Thanksgiving (what perfect timing!) — for a few reasons. First, it will match quite nicely with just about everything from the varied appetizers to the chestnut gravy to the cranberry sauce. Second, you can serve it to everyone — beer drinkers, white zinners, fruit-wine lovers, white wine-only�s, and semi-serious wine drinkers. Third, it�s a great way to get a wine snob wincing and whining (fun! fun!) � and what�s getting together with family and friends without a little argument?

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Castelvero Barbera red wine bottleHow often can you find a Barbera from Piedmont under ten bucks? And would you believe it would be any good?

Once again Vias Imports delivers a great wine value from Italy, this time it’s Castelvero Barbera.

The wine comes from a high-altitude (about 1200 ft.) vineyard in the Monferrato hills of Piedmont, is fermented in stainless steel, sees no oak, but does get a malolactic treatment, for those who want to sound smart when chatting about it. The lack of oak allows the pure, clean Barbera fruit to come out in the wine — which for me is a positive.

That pure fruit is immediately noticed in Castelvero Barbera’s perfumey, open nose, which bursts with red cherries, black raspberry, hints of spice and earth. The palate has ripe black and red cherry fruit, raspberry, touches of cranberry and spice, all delivered on a smooth texture. Gushing, mouthwatering acidity and soft tannins add to the structure and help with food compatibility. It’s well balanced through the finish, which is longer than expected and includes both red and black berry fruits. Match it with pasta in marinara and other red-sauce dishes, grilled or blackened poultry, meaty fish (salmon, trout, blackened catfish), mild cheeses, mac and cheese. This is a really nice red wine for the price: soft and easy drinking, yet complex enough to be enjoyable and matchable with a variety of foods. Great Value and an Everyday Wine.

A-7 t-7 b-8 fc-10 v-10 ~ 92 Points

Find this wine at a retailer near you through WineZap or Wine-Searcher

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Vinos Pinol Ludovicus Terra Alta wine bottleThis wine could have been the result of Southern rap (Ludacris) meeting punk rock (Sid Vicious) … but, in reality this wine has nothing to do with either.

Looking again at the label, you might think “oh great, another Pinot!”. Wrong there too … it’s actually “Pinol” … but you’re getting warmer. But hey, there’s no reason you can’t say this is a “Pinol from Spain” — and let the uninformed think it’s Pinot Noir.

Pinol is actually not a grape, but the name of a family owning a winery (Vinos Pinol) in a little town in Spain called Batea, within the region of Terra Alta. This is a significant fact of geography, because Batea is in what is called “Zone 5″, and just a hop, skip, and jump away from Priorat, which is a Spanish wine region that produces world-class wines that no one with a nose in Napa Cab has ever heard of. Which is just as well — allow geeks of Spanish wine to continue getting great deals.

Back to Ludovicus �

The grapes in this wine are Garnacha (35%), Tempranillo (30%), Syrah (25%), and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%) — and all can be perceived on the nose, which is vibrant, open, and full of ripe black and red fruits, earth, tar, tobacco, and vanilla.

The palate has similar characteristics: wide open, forward, upfront ripe black berry fruit is immediate on the palate, and is followed by spicy vanilla notes before finishing with a mixture of fruit, earth, black pepper, and tobacco. Everything is held together with ripe, mild to medium tannins and mild to medium acidity. By itself, it is interesting and borderline contemplative. With food, its upfront ripe fruit and structure has enough to match with burgers, mac and cheese, leaner meats, such as roast turkey and chicken, turkey or tofu burgers, gamey fish, and grilled vegetables. This might be a bargain bottle for Thanksgiving dinner, and at around $9 qualifies in my book as an Everyday Wine and Great Value.

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-7 v-9 ~ 87 points

By the way, thanks to David Ogilvie of Purple Lips Wine Log for the bottle photo of Vinos Pinol Ludovicus you see here. He also reviewed this wine, if you’d like to get another person’s opinion.

Find this wine from a retailer through WineZap or Wine-Searcher
Vinos Pinol Ludovicus 2005 from Wine.com

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