White Wine Review: Edna Valley Chardonnay 2005

White Wine Review: Edna Valley Chardonnay 2005

Every once in a while I do something crazy. Most of the time, the end result confirms I’m crazy. Once in a blue moon, however, I hit on a wonderful idea, or a match made in heaven.

I live in the Northeast United States, where right now it is cold. Not cold compared to Minnesota, but cold compared to most parts; it’s about 12 degrees right now, negative 15 with the wind chill. Appropriately, I’m warming up a bowl of homemade chili (turkey and bean). And I’ve decided to open up a bottle of … Edna Valley Chardonnay.

Huh? Who drinks white wine in the middle of winter? And who matches white wine with chili?

Well, I’ll try to explain …

First of all, I built up a sweat while moving wine bottles from one side of the condo to the other. Secondly, my chili is made from ground turkey — a white meat — plus beans and corn. There are of course tomatoes in the recipe, which would make it more conducive to a red wine, but the only other red thing in the pot are red kidney beans, which go well with either white or red. Finally, I’ve had this bottle of Chardonnay hanging around since my Thanksgiving tastings (never got to match it with turkey dinner), and it was sitting near the door so it was already cold. What the hey, I say …

While it wasn’t a match made in heaven, it certainly wasn’t bad. In fact, the Chardonnay worked very well thank you with my lean chili. The oaky sweetness of the Edna Valley played nicely against the moderate heat (not much, it came from adding a few pickled hot peppers). And since the wine is a bit on the fat side — not too much acidity — it is a better match for leaner dishes such as my chili. If I tried to put this wine up against a fish in a creamy or buttery (i.e., fatty) sauce, for example, it would fall flat on its face. Instead, it works fine against the lean turkey and high protein beans that dominate the dish. Also, understand that my chili has only moderate heat — I don’t make it so spicy that perspiration beads on my forehead. If I did, I might consider going with a low-alcohol, perceptively sweet German Riesling.

On its own, the Edna Valley Chardonnay is round and full with a creamy texture, forward fruit (pear, apple, banana), and a good dose of spicy vanilla oak. As mentioned, the acidity is on the low side, so don’t try it with fatty or acidic dishes; stick with leaner plates such as mildly prepared but gamey flavored fish (salmon) or better yet chicken, turkey, or lean pork. It’s more of a cocktail drinker — in other words, enjoyable by itself.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-7 ~ 87 Points

Red Wine Review: Argiolas Perdera

The island of Sardinia (Sardegna) sits off the west coast of central Italy, inside the Mediterranean sea. It’s about the same size as Sicily, but much further away from the Italian coastline; its physical separation often excludes it from talk of Italian wine.

However, its Mediterranean climate and hilly terrain make it a great place to plant grapes. About 85% of the island is covered by mountainous plateaus that feature granite and volcanic soil, creating sloped vineyards that can best soak up the sun. Helping the region’s reputation was the recent reduction in planting; slowly Sardinia is becoming known more for quality than quantity. Its best-known red grape is Cannonau, the Italian version of Grenache / Garnacha, and the most famous white is Vermentino. Granted, if you’re a casual wine drinker and/or not heavily into the Italian wine scene, you may have never heard of these two varieties — but trust me, if you see either in the US, chances are it will be worth trying.

After Cannonau and Vermentino, there is Monica. No, not the character from “Friends”, but the grape Monica. During Sardinia’s high-production days, Monica was an important grape, as it grew easily and produced consistent, if unspectacular, juice. The grape’s been dismissed as “undistinguished” by the highly respected wine authority Jancis Robinson, but at this point I’ll have to respectfully disagree, based in part on this wine, Argiolas Perdera.

Argiolas is a highly respected winery in Sardinia, and the one thing that I love about the estate is that they focus on indigenous grapes. You won’t see Argiolas jumping on the bandwagon and producing a Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, or Pinot Grigio simply because that is what the market is demanding. Rather, they stick to the tried and true, the traditional grapes of the region. At the same, while holding to tradition, they’ve also been innovative. For example, in the early 1970s, they were one of pioneers of reducing production in Sardinia, going as far as to pay farmer to NOT grow grapes. They’ve also made significant investments in technology through the years, and recently, hired Giacomo Tachis of Sassicaia fame to consult on their winemaking. (You may recall that Tachis also consulted on another Sardinian wine reviewed here, Santadi Grotta Rossa.) The result are wines that you may not have heard of, and have difficulty pronouncing, but would be remiss if you did not try them. In other words, if you see Argiolas on the label, it will be well worth your ducats.

Perdera is made from 90% Monica, 5% Carignano and 5% Bovale Sardo grapes grown in the Argiolas’ Perdera vineyard. The nose exudes deep, ripe black and red berry fruits — blackberry, black raspberry, blueberry — as well as notes of earth and menthol. On the palate, it is earthy upfront, with black fruits following, and mellows into ripe blackberry and blackcurrant flavors. It gets fuller and more complex as it sits in the glass. Medium to high acidity and equally medium ripe tannins make it well structured and well balanced. This is a full-flavored, robust red on the rustic side, at a nice price. Match it with grilled meats, beef/steak, pasta with meaty sauces, sausage, mushrooms, cheesy dishes, cheeses. An excellent value, and a cheap alternative to high-end Chianti or Super Tuscans.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-10 v-10 ~ 92 Points

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Imported into the US by WineBow

Other Websites: The best red wines are the wines that taste delicious and let you unwind. Red wine bottles can be ordered with personalized labels for a custom feel.

Red Wine Review: Watts Old Vine Zinfandel

Watts Old Vine Zinfandel “Iris Vineyard” 2002

Fresh, bright, open nose of ripe raspberry, strawberry, and a hint of earth and a minty, menthol aroma. Despite being from “old” vines, this is a “New World” style red wine: open, forward, rich, plump, ripe raspberry and boysenberry flavors upfront, hints of earth, spice, and a touch of tobacco making an appearance in the midpalate. Acidity is almost nonexistent until the finish, tannins are soft, alcohol is a little high (but that is often the price paid for ripeness). Very clean. This wine is built for the cocktail crowd, as it is jammy yet easy drinking, and will get overwhelmed by most fatty foods. Enjoy it alone, or try it with leaner meats such as turkey and stronger fish (salmon, swordfish, eel). A MyWinesDirect selection — which means you may have a hard time finding it through a local retailer, so your best bet is to order it online.

a-8 t-8 b-6 fc-6 v-7 ~ 85 Points

Purchase this wine from My Wines Direct

Red Wine Review: 2-Up Shiraz 2005

average retail price: $14

The previously reviewed Mad Dogs & Englishmen really threw me for a loop … I thought for sure it was an Aussie Shiraz. So I figured that if importer Peter Click could find a top-rate Australian Shiraz in Spain, imagine what a legitimate bottle from “down under” might taste like? That led me to try this wine: 2-Up Shiraz, from vineyards in McLaren Vale and Southern Fleurieu, Australia. Get it? Two vineyards = Two Up.

By the way, this bottle has a twist cap, which I love, for so many reasons. First, they�re easy to open. Second, they�re easy to close for storing for the next evening. Third, they�re virtually guaranteed from suffering cork taint. But I digress …

This twist-off Australian Shiraz has many more positives in addition to its closure. Right off the bat, your nose is smacked with wide open aromas of grape jelly, jam, ripe mulberry, blueberry, and raspberry, with hints of black pepper and earth. On the palate it is equally fruit-forward and jammy, as you would expect an Aussie Shiraz to be. Robust flavors of ripe and overripe red raspberry, black raspberry, blueberry. Later on, hints of earth, spice, vanilla, and sweet licorice add to the complexity. This is a fairly big wine, with ample acidity and raw tannins, but does not finish hot with alcohol like many similarly wide-open fruit bombs. Instead, it finishes with good balance and proper length, and in a pleasing style. A yummy, delectable wine by itself, it has plenty of structure to match up against foods. It�s great with stews, burgers, steaks � all things beef � and equally enjoyable with fine cheeses. A kickass, mouthfilling fruit bomb for people who like this sort of wine.

a-8 t-9 b-8 fc-7 v-8 ~ 90 Points

Imported by the Click Wine Group

Buy 2-Up Shiraz from Wine.com

Wines for Valentines

Choosing a wine for Valentine’s Day doesn’t have to be so different from any other special occasion. That said, sparkling wine or Champagne is the ultimate celebratory beverage, and the obvious choice for romantic endeavors. It’s a no-brainer — you can’t go wrong by picking a quality Champagne, no matter how you choose to spend your Valentine’s Day. You can drink it as an aperitif, with appetizers, through the meal, and in the hot tub afterward (beyond that you can let your creative juices run wild with the possibilities).

Ideally, I recommend you spend the extra dough and get a “real” Champagne, meaning the bubbles from France. Why? Because first of all your lover is worth it. Secondly, the fact that you’ve chosen the “real stuff” makes the motion that much more special. Finally, the majority of French Champagne you find will have the versatility mentioned above — in fact most Champagne labeled as Brut will have enough structure and acidity to drink right through a main course. Some of the brands you can trust include Bollinger, Deutz, Laurent-Perrier, Pommery, Heidsieck & Monopole, Gosset, Mumm, Billecart-Salmon, Roederer, Veuve-Clicquot, Taittinger, Ruinart, Leroy, and Bellefon. Understand that the aforementioned list is a small sample of what’s available, and I provide them with the assumption you rarely purchase Champagne, offering some trustworthy names you will likely see on a wine list or in a retail shop. If you are a more advanced imbiber of bubbles, you may want to check out the Champagne and Sparkling Wines for New Year’s article.

If you’re only into sparkling wine as a pre-emptive quaff to dinner, then you might rather prefer a Prosecco or a Moscato d’Asti, which are fizzy wines from Italy that have just the slightest hint of sweetness — just enough to whet your palate and get you in the mood for a romantic dinner.

Foregoing Champagne as your dinner pairing, you should choose a wine just as you would normally — pick a wine that will go with the meal and both you and your partner will enjoy. The only difference comes with the budget; if you are the type of person who weighs the price of a wine as much as the vintage (don’t be ashamed, I’m guilty), then throw that sensibility out the window on Valentine’s Day — it is an evening for splurging, not counting pennies. One night of breaking the budget won’t destroy you, so go ahead and pick that wine you always wanted to try but could never justify the expense. If your date knows you well enough, the surprise of your careless spending will heighten the romance, and you’ll be paid back in spades later in the evening.

Still looking for something that just screams Valentine’s Day? Short of being corny, you have two more options: choose a pink / rose wine, or find a wine that has something “lovely” on the label.

There are two types of pink wines — dry and off-dry (sweet). If you are a regular wine drinker and enjoy dry whites and reds, you’ll be pleased to find that dry rose can be not only a refreshing aperitif but also very adaptable to a number of dishes. Some of the best rose wines in the world come from Spain and Portugal, and are fairly inexpensive. There are also good choices from France, particularly Tavel and Bandol. Regardless of the region, be sure to get a fresher vintage — ideally, a wine labeled within the last two years. Like most white wines, rose wines tend to fade quickly, and are most enjoyable young.

If you or your date drinks wine only on occasion, or finds most wines are too dry or bitter, but you still want to have something pink, there is always white zinfandel. Personally, I’m not fond of white zins, but I will recommend Pink Truck, which is a blend of Grenache, Mourvedre and Zinfandel. Though it definitely has a sweet component, it also has good structure — medium acidity and mild tannins — that allow it to match well with food. It is a perfect pink for people who are weaning off cola with their meals, and for those who think Yellowtail is the best wine ever. In other words, a step up from white zinning.

Finally, should your choice be to be clever, you can choose a wine that actually says love on the label. One of my favorites is the Beaujolais Cru Saint-Amour … which literally translates to “saint love”. Being a Beaujolais, it should match well with a variety of foods, so will make a safe choice. Additionally, there is a line of wines from Tortoise Creek that are labeled “Les Amoureux” (the lovers). There are whites and reds and you’ll know them by the cartoon drawing of two lovey dovey turtles, one holding a bottle of wine, the other a glass.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

Mad Dogs and Englishmen Shiraz Cabernet Monastrell 2004

Well if the name doesn�t grab you, I�m not sure what will.

Oh, and don’t confuse it with that 20/20 stuff you drank as a poor college student.

This is a jammy and earthy, fruit-forward, typical Aussie Shiraz that may well knock your socks off. Just one thing — it�s NOT from Australia.

If you are an astute wine geek with a particular fascination for the more obscure wine regions of Spain, then the mention of Monastrell on the label might have tipped you off. For the uninitiated, Monastrell is a grape indigenous to the Jumilla DO region of Spain, and is the same grape they call Mourvedre in the Rhone Valley of France. It�s the base grape for many of my good-valued Spanish wine favorites, such as Juan Gil�s Wrongo Dongo.

Mad Dogs & Englishmen Shiraz Cabernet Monastrell has a deep, rich nose of earth, spice, and cooked black fruits. The nose actually reminds me more of a Rhone wine, such as a Gigondas or Vacqueyras. On the palate, it tastes like an Aussie Shiraz that has been blended with a Rhone Syrah, as you get both the typical New World style fruit-forward jammy flavors upfront, and also get the more earthy, vegetal, cooked fruit / prunelike Old World chacteristics on the midpalate and through the finish. Tannins are medium to strong, and acidity is medium. The sweet jamminess eventually evolves into a more bitter, vegetal finish. Overall this is a very interesting, complex wine. By itself, this wine is contemplative and unusual, but the green flavors and ample tannins may turn you off. For that reason, I strongly suggest you enjoy it with food — such as a nice hunk of cheese, a steak, burger, meatloaf, or similarly protein-rich dish.

I thought for sure this wine retailed at $16 or more � however you will probably find it for no more than eleven bucks, possibly as low as eight. A great value and worth trying.

a-8 t-7 b-7 fc-7 v-10 ~ 89 points

Imported by Click Wine Group

Find this wine at a retailer near you through Wine-Searcher

Wine Review: Estancia Stonewall Pinot Noir 2004

Wine: Estancia Pinot Noir 2004
Santa Lucia Highlands Stonewall Vineyards

Estancia Winery, based in Monterey County, California, is known to cheapskates like me as a producer of solid, reliable wines in the $10-15 range. I’ve been particularly impressed with their “entry level” Pinot Noir (Pinnacles Ranches), which stands out as a keeper among the sea of crappy under-$20 Pinots made by myriad other producers. The recent excitement over Pinot Noir, and in turn its overproduction, has resulted in too many disappointing bottles, making me wary of choosing one outside of Burgundy and/or under forty bucks. Luckily, Estancia has a staked interest in their reputation, and is more interested in bottling quality wine than rushing the grape de rigeur to market.

One of their quality bottlings is their “Stonewall” Pinot Noir, made from grapes grown in their Stonewall Vineyard of Santa Lucia Highlands. Santa Lucia Highlands earned an AVA (designation as an “official” or unique wine growing region) in 1991, and has recently emerged as one of the most exciting American regions for Pinot Noir. It would take too much room to explain why the area has become so important as a winegrowing region, so you’ll have to trust me on this: if you see Santa Lucia Highlands on a Pinot Noir label, chances are good that the wine inside will be good.

The “Stonewall” Pinot Noir has a ripe, deep, complex aroma of red and black raspberry, black cherry, a good dose of spice and hint of earth. On the palate you get yummy, ripe strawberry and red raspberry fruit upfront, which mellows and balances nicely on the palate with mild acidity and mild tannins. Finish is subtle, but long and pleasing. Very little alcohol is apparent, which is somewhat surprising considering the upfront ripeness. Vanilla spice melds with mild hints of earth, green unripe fruits, and sweet tobacco. Texture is smooth. A very nice wine by itself, it has just enough to stand up to milder dishes. Try it with fish and mildly seasoned vegetarian and poultry dishes. One of the better bottles of under-$30 Pinot Noir.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 90 Points

Estancia Winery Website

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Wines for the Super Bowl

OK, you’ve prepared a tray of baked ziti, have the nuclear-hot buffalo wings roasting in the oven, your secret-recipe chili simmering on the stove, and spread out the chips, dips, pre-cut veggie platter and getting ready to dole out the over-under squares in the final score pool. For beverages, you have the keg on ice and six choices of soda. What about the wine?

Huh? Who drinks wine during the Super Bowl?

Lots of people, if you’ll just give them the option. The trick is to provide the right wines for your crowd and your food spread — without killing your budget.

With big parties of people that may have diverse tastes, I like to go with reliable, popular standbys that meld well with a variety of foods, such as Pinot Grigio or Soave. There are plenty of solid, if unspectacular selections that come in wallet-forgiving 1.5-liter bottles. One 1.5 of Pinot Grigio or Soave is a must — the wine will go with nearly anything you’re serving, and be acceptable for drinking on its own. If you’re serving some particularly spicy dishes, you may also want to offer a bottle of German Riesling. Riesling is another food-friendly wine that matches with nearly everything, and its slight touch of perceived sweetness will provide a fine foil for hotter foods (i.e., buffalo wings, hot poppers, etc.).

In addition to the whites, you should also consider a dry rose, as most will go very nicely with myriad appetizers, from pigs in blankets to pate. The key, however, is to get a “fresh” vintage, especially in the under-ten-buck range. Fresh means the vintage on the label is from only a year or two ago. Look in the wine shop’s “Spain” or “Portugal” aisle for the best values.

For reds, it’s probably a good idea to pick up at least one bottle of inexpensive Pinot Noir, for no other reason than the fact that most pedestrian wine drinkers think it is the “best” wine to drink. If you have more savvy wine geeks, then by all means find a red to match with whatever you’re serving as a main course. For example, if you’re doing the baked ziti thing, Chianti is a no-brainer. If you’re doing some kind of chicken dish, go with a Cru Beaujolais or a lighter Merlot. Also, Cotes-du-Rhone (France) is an affordable, reliable red that matches with a variety foods and is pleasing to most palates.

Considering that football tends to draw crowds with a higher-than-normal testosterone level, you may want to also have on hand a bottle of the biggest, baddest red wine you can squeeze into your budget, such as a jammy Zinfandel or a palate-shattering Shiraz. There are some remarkably affordable wines that fit this profile; for example, anything from Ravenswood will fit the bill — after all, their motto is “no wimpy wines”. Rosemount and Penfolds also offer big, fruit-forward reds in the $10-20 range, as does anything from the Australian Wine Collection (you’ll see an identifying circular sticker on the bottle neck). In addition, you’ll probably score a hit without damaging your budget by choosing almost any red wine from importer Peter Click’s portfolio (look at the fine print on the back label to find a foreign wine’s importer).

If you think your party invites will appreciate it, go the distance and pick up a bottle or two of sparkling wine to celebrate the winning team. A good Cava (Juve y Camps is a reliable brand) or Prosecco will only run you about ten to twelve bucks, as will a sparkling wine from Domaine Ste. Michelle.

Keep the game plan simple — easygoing, food-friendly bottles with a few surprise, big-play reds mixed in — and you’re sure to score with your Super Bowl guests.