April 2007

Zeta Garnacha 2005

Navarra, Spain

A few things made me buy this bottle. First, the striking, shiny red and silver label caught my eye and insisted attention. I know, I know, you can’t judge a wine by its package any more than a book by its cover, but it seemed to be screaming for me to take off the shelf and hold in my hand.

Once I picked up the bottle and studied the label, I liked the idea that it was from Navarra, Spain, as that region has proven time and time again to be a hotbed of red wines with a favorable quality:price ratio. Finally, I saw it was brought in by Weygandt-Metzler, who is one of those smaller importers that you can count on for getting your money’s worth. Alas, I was not disappointed (who says “alas” these days, by the way?)

An open nose of earth, berries, black fruits, and spice suggests a juicy wine, and indeed that’s what you get on the palate. Lots of forward, jammy black and red berry fruit fill the palate upfront, and remain in good balance as a gush of ripe tannins and ample acidity follow the fruit and provide good structure. It’s a touch hot at the very end, but otherwise provides a tight bundle of jammy fruit, earth, and spices from start to finish. A good match for lean red meat, ground-turkey based burgers and sloppy joe’s, mild chili, tacos, and cheeses.

A great wine? Not by a longshot. But for about eight or nine bucks, it’s a fine value.

a-8 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 85 Points

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The simple yet succulent Sunday dinner: roast chicken. It’s one of my favorite dishes to prepare, because it’s so easy (see this simple roast chicken recipe).

It’s similarly easy to pair roast chicken with wine — though it depends on how you personalize the preparation. If you stay simple, using little other than salt, pepper, garlic, and one of those “poultry seasoning” packets, then the most complementary wines would be an unoaked Chardonnay, unoaked Sauvignon Blanc, Champagne, dry rose, Cru Beaujolais, or a light, simple style of Pinot Noir.

If you must do Pinot Noir, make sure it is in the lighter style, or has a green / “stemmy” character (such as what you get from Alsace Pinot Noir). Many of the post-Sideways Pinots were formulated to appeal to the masses, and as a result are overloaded with jammy flavors that will clash with the white meat. Better to go with a fresh rose or a Cru Beaujolais if you prefer not to do a white.

Some of my favorite wine matches for roast chicken:

• Sauvignon Blancs: Geyser Peak, Goldwater “Dog Point”, Babich, Mount Nelson, Veramonte, Michel Bailly Les Loges Pouilly-Fume
• Chardonnays: La Crema, Geyser Peak, Edna Valley, Golden Kaan, Merryvale, Columbia Winery, Ravenswood
• Other whites: Colosi Sicilia Bianco, Francis Coppola Viognier
• Roses (pink wines): Pink Criquet, Mas de Gourgonnier, Domaine Lafond Tavel
• Beaujolais: any Cru from Duboeuf, such as Brouilly, Fleurie, Morgon
• Pinot Noir: Calera, Robert Mondavi (Carneros), Estancia Stonewall, Leon Beyer, Marcel Deiss,
• Other reds: Les Deux Rives Corbieres Rouge, Ludovicus Terra Alta Pinol

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Often you may read a wine review that states the wine’s nose or palate is “closed”. Generally speaking, you’ll see this term applied to wines that are on the more expensive side (well, to me they’re expensive — we’re talking $20 and up). Reading through the review, you may also find the taster describe the wine as “young”, and suggest that it be cellared for a number of years.

A wine is described as “closed” when it is not expressing its full potential. For example, the aromas may be faint or “muted” (another geeky term), and/or the fruit flavors on the palate are overpowered by the tannins, acidity, and other preservative components. Though there doesn’t appear to be a whole lot of excitement coming from the wine’s smell, or in the way it tastes, the fruit is expected to come out in full force a few years down the road. In high-brow winespeak, you would say the wine will “open up” after some aging.

Sometimes you’ll also see the term “tight” or “tightly wound” used in conjunction with “closed” — that means there’s a high concentration of fruit, tannins, acidity, and/or alcohol. Think of a tightly-wound spring — it’s all wound up and ready to burst.

So how do the wine experts know the difference between a “closed, tightly wound wine” and a wine that’s simply not good? Experience, especially with the particular wine, and knowledge of that vintage’s quality (generally measured by fruit concentration). After tasting several dozen examples of a specific wine, through its many years of maturity, a person with a gifted palate gets to know how a wine develops, and can take an educated guess whether a particular wine will one day “open up”.

If you’re not one of those people, don’t fret — start getting some experience!

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This is a 100% Aglianico, the second wine of Ars Poetica’s trademark Aglianico del Vulture. A remarkable value, it has the flavor, body, complexity, structure, and finish of a Super Tuscan in the $30-45 range.

Named for the extinct volcano (Mt. Vulture) that overlooks the vineyards, Vulcano is a medium-bodied red wine displaying ripe fruit and surprising complexity. Deep, full aromas erupt (pun intended) from the glass at first sniff: black fruits, licorice, tobacco, tar, earth and some vegetal notes. Though it has earthy smells, in fact the nose is quite clean.

You’ll taste similar flavors along with juicy black raspberry and black cherry, with hints of licorice, blackcurrant, bell peppers and a bit of coffee bean. A rush of ripe tannins, and medium acidity balance out the fruit before the wine finishes. Though only about eight dollars, I’ll take this over a 50-dollar Super Tuscan any day, and spend the savings on two big T-bones to go with it. Match it with steak, blackened dishes, roast lamb, ripe cheeses and grilled meats. Choose this instead of a Chianti Classico Riserva (which would be double the price) — you won’t be disappointed.

a-8 t-9 b-8 fc-7 v-10 ~ 92 Points

Importer: Verdoni Imports

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In the spirit of Earth Day this week, Sokol Blosser Winery has been recognized by the City of Portland, Oregon, for its commitment to “green” practices. As part of the city’s 15th annual “Businesses for an Environmentally Sustainable Tomorrow”, Portland’s Office of Sustainable Development granted Sokol Blosser with the “BEST Practices for Sustainability—Small Company” award.

One of Oregon’s oldest wineries, the 80-acre property includes a 75-acre estate vineyard, wine production facility, and a tasting and retail sales room that are all dedicated to the principles of The Natural Step, and are the first winery in the world to have obtained LEED certification.

Their efforts go way beyond the usual recycling and use of unbleached paper products (though they do that, too). For example, they’ve recently installed 12 giant solar panels to provide about one-third of their energy needs — a move which reduces dependency on fossil fuels and reduces greenhouse gases. Their vineyards have been fully certified as USDA organic (since 2005), and are cultivated with farm tractors that use 50% biodiesel fuel. For more detailed information on their green practices (and their wines), visit the Sokol Blosser website.

For those who follow a strictly organic diet, and/or have a strong affinity for buying products from socially-responsible companies, you herewith have a selection of fine wines from an Earth-friendly winery. Even if you’re not a member of Greenpeace, you can still enjoy Sokol Blosser wines — there’s just as tasty as other Oregon bottlings — and in the process feel like you’re doing your small part in saving the Earth.

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Wine bags have come a long way.

Twenty years ago, you’d likely carry your bottle in a brown paper bag on your way to your favorite BYOB restaurant. Or someone might have given you an canvas thing that was embroidered with absurdly awful renderings of grapevines.

Today, your vessel of choice can be made from cloth, high-grade leather, vinyl, plastic, stainless steel, neoprene, or nearly any other material you can imagine. They can cost as little as ten bucks to close to one thousand, and can carry anywhere from one bottle to a full case. Some have zippers, others have brass clips or buttons, and include a shoulder strap.

Personally, I like the neoprene bags produced from neoprene by BuiltNY — but not because they look so cool. Rather, because of their efficiency. Neoprene is the same stuff used to make deep-sea diving suits / surfer’s wetsuits, and is remarkably efficient in keeping cold things cold, and warm things warm. Obviously, that insulating performance is one of the big reasons I like the BuiltNY bags, especially when it comes to keeping white wines chilled (they claim the bottle will keep its temperature for up to 4 hours). In addition, the two-bottle tote that I own keeps each bottle separately insulated — so the ice cold bottle of Champagne won’t lower the temperature of the Merlot next to it.

Two other things I like about these bags: weight and space. The neoprene material is extremely light — maybe a quarter of a pound — so carrying the bottle(s) around doesn’t take too much effort. Further, the bags lie flat for easy storage. This may not be a big deal unless you’re like me and live in a small condo or apartment, where space is at a premium. These wine bags are about a half-inch thick when empty, so you can stow or slip them into just about any drawer, bookshelf, or similarly narrow space.

After reading this review, you might think I own stock in BuiltNY (I don’t) or was paid to write this (I wasn’t). In truth, I simply think they “build” a great product.

If you don’t see these neoprene bags at your favorite wine shop, click on one of the pictures to buy one from Amazon. They come in red, black, navy blue, green, and pink.

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It’s hard to find a good Pinot Noir under $20. Most of the ones that have entered the market in the under-$20 range since “Sideways” are Pinot Noir in name only, and display little — if any — of the grape’s pure character. Like Merlot before it, inexpensive Pinot Noirs are simple grape juice from unextraordinary grapes that have been severely manipulated with oak chips and other additives, and subjected to other winemaking techniques and modern chemistry, to produce a mass-market product.

Not that this is a bad thing … after all, there are many hundreds of thousands of people — perhaps millions — who are more than satisfied with these manipulated wines. You can’t argue with success, nor with a person’s happiness.

So where does Mark West Pinot Noir fit in?

Some may remember Mark West, the basketball player. He was a 6’10” center for Old Dominion and several NBA teams in the 1980s and 1990s. He had nothing to do with this wine … but you will notice something in this wine that could have something to do with “the hardwood” …

On the nose, this Pinot Noir is heavily perfumed, exuding strong floral aromas that overpower hints of black cherry and wild red and black berries and smoky oak. The perfume is so strong it could be mistaken for a woman’s perfume, or for a soap (I’m getting Palmolive). That’s not a bad thing … personally, I like the smell of flowers and so find this wine pleasing to my honker.

In the mouth there is a lot of juicy, ripe, jammy red and black berry fruits with enough concentration to give a perception of sweetness. All that juicy fruit upfront fades into tart, medium acidity and mild dusty tannins that become more prominent in the finish. There isn’t a whole lot of fruit in the finish, which is a bit disappointing after such a forceful first impression. What there is a lot of, from start to finish, is oak, highlighted by a toasty vanilla flavor.

I tried to match it with a few different foods, but found it most pleasing alone. It gets in the way of milder flavors, and doesn’t do much to heighten or complement stronger dishes. Consider this a wine to have at the bar, or during cocktail hour.

This is a good wine for people that are hot for $10-20 Australian Shiraz and similarly jammy, chunky, all-fruit-upfront wines. For purists seeking Pinot Noir, I suggest you take a pass.

a-8 t-7 b-7 fc-6 v-7 ~ 85 Points

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Austere is a major geek term that is often used to describe a young, expensive wine that critics assume will evolve into a blockbuster.

The term austere is actually difficult to pinpoint; it is a vague definition of a wine that has a high level of acid and/or tannin, which currently overpowers the fruit, but is expected to soften with age.

For example, a huge red Bordeaux or expensive California Cabernet may taste more like an ashtray than wine — when it is young. The flavors will be dominated by bitter earth and tar, acids may be oppressive (some people describe it as “bite”), and/or the tannins may leave your tongue feeling like it needs a shave. However, experienced connoisseurs — who have tasted similar wines in youth and later at maturity — may take the educated guess that the wine will eventually evelve into something much more drinkable. So instead of saying the wine is similar to licking hot tarmac, they’ll say it is “austere” (sounds a lot better, doesn’t it?).

In all seriousness, if you hear or read the word “austere” in tasting notes, it almost always will mean that the wine is 1) expensive; 2) very young; and 3) after appropriate time in the cellar, the “hardness” (”hard” is a common synonym for “austere”) will soften, the fruit will come forward, and the wine should taste somewhere between good and extraordinary.

By the way, if you are an advanced wine drinker and want to become more knowledgeable about wine, you should consider purchasing The Oxford Companion to Wine. Just about every wine term you’ve ever heard (and never heard) is defined in this massive tome, and it makes a nice paperweight. Click on the picture to the left to buy it from Amazon.

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Italy may be best known for Sangiovese, the base grape of some of the country’s greatest wines, such as Chianti and Brunello. Rivaling Sangiovese is Nebbiolo, the fruit producing Barolo and Barbaresco. A third, lesser-known (at least, outside of Italy) yet just as supreme grape is Aglianico (ahl-YAHN-eh-koe).

Grown primarily in the southern part of Italy, it does best in hot climates and volcanic soils. The grape ripens late in the harvest, and if done right will produce wines that are inky black, with firm-to-huge tannins, and a powerful structure that benefits from 5-10 years or more of cellaring. Common characteristics of Aglianico wine include a smooth, rich, texture and aromas and flavors of black fruit, dark chocolate, coffee, leather, smoke, and mineral. In other words, pretty complex. While traditional / old-school Aglianico wines tend to be too harsh and bold when young, many wineries are employing modern techniques to produce examples that are ready to drink upon release.

Aglianico is an important grape in the Campania region, where it is the main ingredient in Taurasi. You may have never heard of Taurasi, but it is well worth picking up if you come across it. Aglianico also grows in the south-adjoining region of Basilicata, producing world-class wines called Aglianico del Vulture (don’t say it like the bird; it’s properly pronounced as vull-TORE-ay).

Why go through all the bother of hunting down these hard-to-find, impossible-to-say, unusual wines? Three reasons: first, the quality is just as good as (maybe better than) Italy’s best wines; second, many examples are enjoyable to drink right now (as opposed to sticking the wine in a cellar for 10 years); and third, you can find affordable bottles. Personally, I like the affordable part, especially when I’m staring at a shelf full of Barolos and Barbarescos that START at 80 bucks or more.

In fact, some outstanding Aglianicos can be had for about half that price. But before you plunk down a pair of twenties, you can taste an introductory example for less than 10 bucks: Ars Poetica “Vulcano” (review coming in a few days), which is ready to drink now with burgers and steaks. Other brands to look for include Tenuta le Querce, Sasso, Di Majo Norante, Terredora di Paolo, Cantina del Taburno, Feudi di San Gregorio, and Caputo.

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Rock Rabbit is a winery in California that makes two wines: Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. That’s it.

In other words, they’re specialists, and winemaker Alex Cose has a finite focus. With the Syrah, his goal is to make a rich, jammy, New World style wine that tastes more like Australian Shiraz than old school Hermitage. He makes no secret of this plan, and in fact proclaims without shame his desire to copy the wineries “down under” on the Rock Rabbit website. Each year, he sources grapes from selected vineyards that are best suited toward this goal — so regardless of vintage, the wine will be consistent from year to year.

The first thing you notice about Rock Rabbit Syrah (a.k.a., Shiraz) is that it is wide open, rich, plummy, and jammy — both on nose and palate. The nose has deep, rich aromas of sweet ripe blackberry, mulberry, and plum, with hints of tar, eucalyptus, and earth. Color is still fairly opaque at the center, a dark jelly-like purple, and is bright magenta at the rim. However, in the mouth it is more mature, giving opulent rich ripe jammy blackberry and plum flavors, as well as a grape jam flavor. Some earth and spice also enter the picture. Acidity is low to medium, tannins are softer than expected but still in the medium to medium-high range, and aren’t overwhelming until the very end of the finish. Alcohol is high, as expected for something this ripe, but tempered by the fruit. Because of the over-the-top jamminess, it’s a little awkward for food, though it is OK with burgers and cheese. A good wine for those who enjoy forward, plummy, Australian Shiraz. In short, the winemaker has fulfilled his intentions.

a-8 t-7 b-6 fc-6 v-9 ~ 86 Points

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A new winery is playing their version of “Name That Tune” … except, the game is called “Name That Winery”.

The Washington Wine Company is running a contest to name their new winery, which is scheduled to open in Woodinville Wine Village, Washington State, in 2008.

The contest runs from April 6–May 30. The winner of the contest will receive two cases of the winery-to-be-named-later’s best wine each year for a decade. The prize will also include an annual private wine tasting hosted by winemaker Jeff Schackman when the winners come in to pick up their yearly cases of wine.

Go to the Washington Wine Company website for details and to enter your suggestion for a winery name. Who knows, you may win two free cases of wine for the next ten years. Good luck!

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Have you ever poured red wine into a glass, and right at the end of the pour, an obnoxious little bit of juice jumps out of the mouth of the bottle at the last second and stains your lily-white tablecloth? Or, it drips down the neck of the bottle and onto your hand? Of course you have. And you probably know enough to use a napkin when you’re pouring, or you might have seen a restaurant sommelier gently twist the bottle clockwise and counter-clockwise at the end of the pour, and practiced the movement yourself to avoid dripping.

Admittedly, I’m a wine geek … a cork dork … a borderline snob, and I use drip collars. Yes, I know how to do that fancy little turn of the bottle, and most of the time I can keep the wine from dripping. But you know what? Most of the time, it’s not worth the effort, not when it takes all of two seconds to slip a collar over the top of the bottle and not have to think about dripping for the rest of the night. Drip collars make my life simple, easy, and stress-free. Perhaps best of all, they only cost about five bucks, and last nearly a lifetime.

It’s such a simple piece of equipment, but it is a must-have for anyone who pours red wine on a regular basis.

Click on either of the pictures, depending on which style you prefer, to buy directly from Amazon. Or visit a site like IWA to find even fancier versions.

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Good news for Spanish-speaking wine connoisseurs in the New York City area — the International Wine Center (IWC) in New York City will be offering an Intermediate Certificate course “en Espanol”.

The eight-week program covering the major grape varieties and wine regions of the world as well as the fundamentals of grapegrowing and winemaking has been taught in English by the IWC since 1995. Beginning in mid-May, the same course will also be offered in Spanish — instruction, course materials and exam included.

Students who successfully complete the course will earn the WSET® Intermediate Certificate in Wines and Spirits, an internationally-recognized credential awarded by the Wine and Spirit Education Trust (WSET), which is the world’s largest wine educational organization. International Wine Center is the U.S. headquarters of WSET.

“Considering the important role that Spanish-speaking individuals play in the wine, food and hospitality trade in New York City, it is only appropriate that a serious wine program be available to them in their native language,” said Mary Ewing-Mulligan MW, who serves as Executive Director of WSET programs in the United States, as well as President of IWC. “We are honored to be able to provide this opportunity to them.”

The Spanish WSET Intermediate Certificate Course begins on Thursday, May 17 and concludes on July 19. Classes meet weekly from 6:00 to 8:00pm at International Wine Center, 350 Seventh Avenue, Suite 1201. The fee is $668.

For detailed information on the WSET programs, call 212-239-3055, email info@internationalwinecenter.com or visit www.internationalwinecenter.com.

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You may often see the term “cloying” used in the highbrow wine magazine reviews — most often when describing overly ripe white wines and dessert wines. Merriam-Webster defines cloying thusly:

” disgusting or distasteful by reason of excess ; also : excessively sweet or sentimental ( a cloying romantic comedy )”

In wine terms, cloying is used to connote a wine that is excessively sweet in flavor (sentimentality might enter the picture, though it depends on your mood). Like most descriptors used in wine tasting notes, it is a subjective term — what one finds cloying, another may find “just right”.

However, seeing the term in a taster’s notes can be helpful to you. In nearly all cases, a wine that is described as “cloying” will have a high level of residual sugar, and therefore a sweet taste. Similarly, a wine that is described as ” .. ripe fruit, but not cloying .. ” suggests that it will have a flavor that might give the perception of sweetness, but not be overpoweringly sweet.

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The latin-looking letters on the label may confuse you, or make you think this wine is Greek. But in fact it is a wine made by a Frenchman from grapes in an Italian vineyard owned by the American Jess Jackson. Got that ? OK, on to the wine …

As with the other Arcanum wines, this wine showed almost nothing after first opening, so I let it sit in the glass for almost an hour. Ripe black fruits immediately accentuate the nose: black rasberry, blackberry, maybe a hint of cassis. Silky, creamy texture carries mildly ripe raspberry fruit that seems to get riper as it sits on the palate and remains in the finish, carried out by touch of creamy vanilla. Yes I know I used creamy twice in that sentence and in my mind it was appropriate for the experience. It is creamy and thick, yet somehow ethereal, if that’s possible. A second sip adds some mild sweet earth, maybe a touch of sweet tobacco. Tannins are medium and in good balance. Acidity is mild to medium and in good proportion to the fruit. A very well balanced, elegant wine … yet somehow simultaneously a monster.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

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I let this wine sit in the glass for more than an hour before tasting … the winemaster Pierre Seillan says to decant the Arcanum wines a good TWO hours before imbibing. Even after an hour, the aromas are still struggling to get out from under. And what appears from under the depths hints at excellence. I get whiffs of black fruits, complex earth and tar. From the nose, there seems to be a lot of layers here. On the palate, again the characteristics are subdued, but paying close attention reveals a remarkable complexity: ripe black raspberry, black currant, hints of anise and cassis, sweet earth and tobacco, black pepper, cardamom, and vanilla, all tightly wrapped by ripe tannins, mild acidity, and alcohol. The finish lingers for over a minute, and the tannins are still coating the tongue, with gentle fruit and spice in the background, a good three minutes later. This is subdued now, with a few years’ cellaring it should explode into a huge wine to contemplate with exquisite cheese or enjoy with a ribeye.

a-9 t-10 b-10 fc-7 v-7 ~ 92 Points

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As with the other Arcanum wines, yes I did let this sit … and sit … and sit … I opened it and poured it and didn’t give it so much of a gander for an hour and a half and it still was showing very little on the nose, other than black pepper, maybe a hint of something meaty … or chocolatey … and a hint of black fruit. In the mouth it displays a little bit more than the nose, and actually gets more flavorful in the finsh.

Upfront, I get some ripe black fruit: blackberry, black raspberry. As I swirl it around, the fruit gets a little more complex, nothing I can describe exactly so let’s just call it complex. Then, everything seems to come rushing out of the gate after swallowing, almost like a desperate college football team pulling out all the stops with 2 minutes left to play.

The finish is long .. lingering … persistent … continuous …. get the drift? The fruit seems to blossom on the finish, showing ripe raspberry fruit, spice, vanilla, and cola. Very well balanced with dry, ripe tannins and medium acidity. This wine is going to be a blockbuster in 3-4 years.

a-8 t-9 b-10 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

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Looking for an impressive, big-ticket bottle of wine that is cooler than the well-knowns? Read the rest of this entry »

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Red Wine Review:
Casa Lapostolle Merlot Cuvee Alexandre
Apalta Vineyard

Dirty nose belies the rich ripe red and black berry fruits in the mouth. Don’t get me wrong, this wine is definitely earthy, but has equal amounts of sweet fruit to balance out. More complex than I expected, but then I didn’t look closely enough at the label. I have long been a big fan of Casa Lapostolle’s Merlot “Cuvee Alexandre” labeled as being simply from “Rapel Valley”, and never paid more than maybe twelve bucks for it. This bottle was right around that price but I’m sure it was mislabeled, as I’ve seen it elsewhere for twice as much. That’s fine … as a ten dollar wine, it is an outstanding value, and at around $22-25, it is appropriately priced for the quality inside the bottle.

The first day I opened this wine, the aroma was fairly closed, showing only a lot of earth – as in dirt. I drank about a glass and a half and re-corked it, leaving it at room temperature. The next evening, I poured it again and the aroma really opened up, showing deep, rich, ripe black fruits — cassis, black raspberry, black cherry — integrated with the bitter earthy notes, leather, black pepper, green bell pepper, dark chocolate, and a hint of tobacco. This wine is very complex both on the nose and the palate — the flavors are similar to the aromas: black fruits, earthy tones, hints of sweet tobacco, black licorice, vanilla spice. The tannins are rather aggressive, but not to the point of killing the fruit, and the acidity is also medium to medium-high. It is a fine wine for food matching, particularly for beefy, cheesy, and fatty dishes. On its own it is enjoyable but maybe a bit too aggressive; if you must drink it away from the dinner table I suggest you at least have a hunk of cheese to go with it. Complex, enjoyable, and worthy of cellaring for 2-4 years.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 89 points

Imported by Schieffelin-Somerset

Casa Lapostolle Winery - official website

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After pouring really inexpensive Languedoc from out of Larry’s Sommeliers Series glass and down the drain, the geek that Larry is once again brought up the unforgettable night he enjoyed a bottle of Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou St. Julien Bordeaux — after turning back a corked bottle of Chateau Margaux. He said it was the best thing that ever happened to him, because the Ducru was “mind blowing, almost life-changing”.

Whatever.

Personally, I’d never had Ducru, so didn’t understand all the fuss. I figured that some time in my life I’d get the chance to taste the legendary nectar — hopefully on someone else’s dime. Then, remarkably, I found a dusty bottle of Ducru Beaucaillou in the discount bin of Shop Rite Liquors, for a few dollars more than the Yellow Tail Cabernet Sauvignon I’d already picked up. Looking at the two bottles next to each other in my basket, I knew exactly what had to be done: a taste-off !

To make it fair, I uncorked both bottles at precisely the same time, and let them sit for exactly two hours to breathe. When it was time to start pouring, I used identical machine-blown Riedel Vinum Extreme Bordeaux glasses (I know hand-blown is better, but feared inconsistency in the shape might skew the results; machines are much more reliable than humans).

Using a graduated cylinder, I measured equal amounts of each wine into their respective glasses, and began the process of swirling and sniffing.

As expected, the Yellow Tail Cab expressed youthful exuberance, showing vibrant aromas of raspberry jam, grape juice, and imitation vanilla. It exploded in the mouth with flavors of concord grape jelly, easing into a finish of succulent, lip-smacking Jolly Rancher Wild Berry Fruit candy.

The Ducru, on the other hand, was not nearly as impressive. No matter how much I swirled and sniffed, the nose remained closed and uninteresting. The palate was similar — some hints of blackcurrants, cassis, leather, tobacco, blackberry, spice, and earth — but otherwise flat and, well, obtuse. Certainly not something I’d serve with buffalo wings, pigs in blankets, or even mac and cheese (and EVERYTHING goes with mac and cheese!). In fact, I wouldn’t even offer this plonk to people who don’t know the difference between Pinot Grigio and Pinot Noir — I just wouldn’t be able to contain the guilt.

Additionally, the Ducru remained obnoxiously long in my mouth — it just wouldn’t go away. It kind of lingered … seemingly for hours. In the end I had to douse my tongue with Ass-Kickin’ Hot Sauce to kill the taste.

I compared my notes with those of my snobby wine friends, as well as some old editions of Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate. I have to tell you, I didn’t get what they did from the Ducru. There’s the slight possibility I got a bad bottle, or, more likely, was suffering from palate fatigue after the circus-like experience of complexity of the Yellow Tail. Maybe I’ll give the Ducru another chance, on another day (though, I’ll try the Ducru FIRST next time).

Click here for more detailed notes on the Ducru vs. Yellow Tail smackdown tasting !

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