Category Archives: Red Wines

Red Wine Review: Mark West Pinot Noir

Mark West Pinot Noir Central Coast wine bottleIt’s hard to find a good Pinot Noir under $20. Most of the ones that have entered the market in the under-$20 range since “Sideways” are Pinot Noir in name only, and display little — if any — of the grape’s pure character. Like Merlot before it, inexpensive Pinot Noirs are simple grape juice from unextraordinary grapes that have been severely manipulated with oak chips and other additives, and subjected to other winemaking techniques and modern chemistry, to produce a mass-market product.

Not that this is a bad thing … after all, there are many hundreds of thousands of people — perhaps millions — who are more than satisfied with these manipulated wines. You can’t argue with success, nor with a person’s happiness.

Old Dominion basketball star Mark West slam dunkingSo where does Mark West Pinot Noir fit in?

Some may remember Mark West, the basketball player. He was a 6’10” center for Old Dominion and several NBA teams in the 1980s and 1990s. He had nothing to do with this wine … but you will notice something in this wine that could have something to do with “the hardwood” …

On the nose, this Pinot Noir is heavily perfumed, exuding strong floral aromas that overpower hints of black cherry and wild red and black berries and smoky oak. The perfume is so strong it could be mistaken for a woman’s perfume, or for a soap (I’m getting Palmolive). That’s not a bad thing … personally, I like the smell of flowers and so find this wine pleasing to my honker.

In the mouth there is a lot of juicy, ripe, jammy red and black berry fruits with enough concentration to give a perception of sweetness. All that juicy fruit upfront fades into tart, medium acidity and mild dusty tannins that become more prominent in the finish. There isn’t a whole lot of fruit in the finish, which is a bit disappointing after such a forceful first impression. What there is a lot of, from start to finish, is oak, highlighted by a toasty vanilla flavor.

I tried to match it with a few different foods, but found it most pleasing alone. It gets in the way of milder flavors, and doesn’t do much to heighten or complement stronger dishes. Consider this a wine to have at the bar, or during cocktail hour.

This is a good wine for people that are hot for $10-20 Australian Shiraz and similarly jammy, chunky, all-fruit-upfront wines. For purists seeking Pinot Noir, I suggest you take a pass.

a-8 t-7 b-7 fc-6 v-7 ~ 85 Points

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Red Wine Review: Rock Rabbit Syrah

Rock Rabbit Winery Syrah Shiraz red wine bottleRock Rabbit is a winery in California that makes two wines: Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. That’s it.

In other words, they’re specialists, and winemaker Alex Cose has a finite focus. With the Syrah, his goal is to make a rich, jammy, New World style wine that tastes more like Australian Shiraz than old school Hermitage. He makes no secret of this plan, and in fact proclaims without shame his desire to copy the wineries “down under” on the Rock Rabbit website. Each year, he sources grapes from selected vineyards that are best suited toward this goal — so regardless of vintage, the wine will be consistent from year to year.

The first thing you notice about Rock Rabbit Syrah (a.k.a., Shiraz) is that it is wide open, rich, plummy, and jammy — both on nose and palate. The nose has deep, rich aromas of sweet ripe blackberry, mulberry, and plum, with hints of tar, eucalyptus, and earth. Color is still fairly opaque at the center, a dark jelly-like purple, and is bright magenta at the rim. However, in the mouth it is more mature, giving opulent rich ripe jammy blackberry and plum flavors, as well as a grape jam flavor. Some earth and spice also enter the picture. Acidity is low to medium, tannins are softer than expected but still in the medium to medium-high range, and aren’t overwhelming until the very end of the finish. Alcohol is high, as expected for something this ripe, but tempered by the fruit. Because of the over-the-top jamminess, it’s a little awkward for food, though it is OK with burgers and cheese. A good wine for those who enjoy forward, plummy, Australian Shiraz. In short, the winemaker has fulfilled his intentions.

a-8 t-7 b-6 fc-6 v-9 ~ 86 Points

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Red Wine Review: Arcanum I

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum 1 labelThe latin-looking letters on the label may confuse you, or make you think this wine is Greek. But in fact it is a wine made by a Frenchman from grapes in an Italian vineyard owned by the American Jess Jackson. Got that ? OK, on to the wine …

As with the other Arcanum wines, this wine showed almost nothing after first opening, so I let it sit in the glass for almost an hour. Ripe black fruits immediately accentuate the nose: black rasberry, blackberry, maybe a hint of cassis. Silky, creamy texture carries mildly ripe raspberry fruit that seems to get riper as it sits on the palate and remains in the finish, carried out by touch of creamy vanilla. Yes I know I used creamy twice in that sentence and in my mind it was appropriate for the experience. It is creamy and thick, yet somehow ethereal, if that’s possible. A second sip adds some mild sweet earth, maybe a touch of sweet tobacco. Tannins are medium and in good balance. Acidity is mild to medium and in good proportion to the fruit. A very well balanced, elegant wine … yet somehow simultaneously a monster.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

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Red Wine Review: Arcanum II

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum 2 labelI let this wine sit in the glass for more than an hour before tasting … the winemaster Pierre Seillan says to decant the Arcanum wines a good TWO hours before imbibing. Even after an hour, the aromas are still struggling to get out from under. And what appears from under the depths hints at excellence. I get whiffs of black fruits, complex earth and tar. From the nose, there seems to be a lot of layers here. On the palate, again the characteristics are subdued, but paying close attention reveals a remarkable complexity: ripe black raspberry, black currant, hints of anise and cassis, sweet earth and tobacco, black pepper, cardamom, and vanilla, all tightly wrapped by ripe tannins, mild acidity, and alcohol. The finish lingers for over a minute, and the tannins are still coating the tongue, with gentle fruit and spice in the background, a good three minutes later. This is subdued now, with a few years’ cellaring it should explode into a huge wine to contemplate with exquisite cheese or enjoy with a ribeye.

a-9 t-10 b-10 fc-7 v-7 ~ 92 Points

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Red Wine Review: Arcanum III

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum 3 labelAs with the other Arcanum wines, yes I did let this sit … and sit … and sit … I opened it and poured it and didn’t give it so much of a gander for an hour and a half and it still was showing very little on the nose, other than black pepper, maybe a hint of something meaty … or chocolatey … and a hint of black fruit. In the mouth it displays a little bit more than the nose, and actually gets more flavorful in the finsh.

Upfront, I get some ripe black fruit: blackberry, black raspberry. As I swirl it around, the fruit gets a little more complex, nothing I can describe exactly so let’s just call it complex. Then, everything seems to come rushing out of the gate after swallowing, almost like a desperate college football team pulling out all the stops with 2 minutes left to play.

The finish is long .. lingering … persistent … continuous …. get the drift? The fruit seems to blossom on the finish, showing ripe raspberry fruit, spice, vanilla, and cola. Very well balanced with dry, ripe tannins and medium acidity. This wine is going to be a blockbuster in 3-4 years.

a-8 t-9 b-10 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

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