Category Archives: Weekend Wines

Red Wine Review: Merryvale Cabernet

Merryvale Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Napa Valley

Merryvale Starmont Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley wine bottleAlthough I usually condone (and insist on) trying new wines to expand your horizons and learn to enjoy all the fan and adventure that fermented grape juice has to offer, it’s also OK to drink the same wine more than once (just don’t make a habit of it!). Indeed, there are often times you walk into a wine shop with the express purpose of purchasing a bottle or a brand you’re familiar with — perhaps as a gift for someone else, or to match with a specific meal, or simply because you know you’re going to enjoy it. Personally, I have about a dozen or so “reliable standby” brands that I count on year after year. One of those is the Merryvale Vineyards and Winery in Napa Valley.

Merryvale concentrates on the typical California varietals — Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. Year in and year out, their bottlings are consistently high quality throughout the lineup, and give you good bang for your buck. I particularly enjoy the reds from their entry level “Starmont” line, including this Cabernet Sauvignon — which also has a bit of Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc blended in for added complexity.

Tasting Notes

Forward nose open with ripe black and red berry fruit, along with some earth and tar. In the mouth, the texture is smooth, almost creamy, with rich, ripe black berry fruit – blackberry, cassis, stewed plum / prune. Also touches of tobacco, earth, and a hint of spice add complexity. Very tasty and enjoyable on its own, even better with a ribeye, sirloin or skirt steak. Acidity is medium, tannins are ripe and medium – neither is overpowering at all, but rather provide structure and are in good balance with the almost-jammy ripe fruit. Finish is also balanced and pleasing, offering good fruit and hints of earth, black pepper, and tobacco before yielding to some chalky tannins at the very end. Enjoyable, appropriately priced (about $23), and ready to drink now.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-7 ~ 88 Points

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Red Wine Review: Hill of Content Shiraz

Hill of Content Shiraz 2004

Hill of Content Shiraz wine bottleAustralian Shiraz has become overly popular — to a fault. Once a secret among wine geeks “in the know” as an affordable alternative to high-priced Syrah-based wines from the Rhone, Aussie Shiraz has become wildly popular among all imbibers, to the point where pedestrian wine drinkers are surprised to find out that French wineries are “now” making “Shiraz” as well — but spelling it differently.

With the influx of Shiraz on shelves across the United States — and overflowing the bargain bins — trying to find high-quality bottles is akin to searching a needle in a haystack. Sure, it’s fairly easy to find a nine-dollar Shiraz filled with upfront jammy fruit, but what about something with complexity, or a wine to contemplate? Perhaps a Shiraz with a finish that lasts longer than the time it takes to bat an eyelash?

They’re out there, but it’s hard to know them without tasting them first — kind of a catch-22. One way is to find them is to follow the old “you get what you pay for”, as it’s unlikely you’ll find a mindblowing wine for, say, eleven bucks. But when you start pulling out the bills with Andrew Jackson’s face to pay for a bottle, you’d like to be satisfied with the purchase. Aside from relying on friends’ recommendations, I have a secret: look for a strip around the neck of the bottle, or above the label, that says “Australian Premium Wine Collection“. Chances are good that if you see their seal stuck to the bottle, you will at least get what you pay for when it comes to Australian wine. Such was the case in my plucking this Hill of Content Shiraz off the shelf.

The Tasting Notes

A big jammy wine – so big it seems to be jumping out of the glass. The aromas are open, with ripe fruit of blackberry, black raspberry, menthol, alcohol, with hints of earth and spice. Take a taste and you are rewarded with a mouthful of rich, ripe blackberry, black raspberry, and mild touches of earth, vanilla spice, tar, dark chocolate, and tobacco. Ripe, medium-high tannins and medium acidity balance things out nicely, and become apparent in the finish which is fairly long and pleasant. Though there seemed to be a good dose of alcohol on the nose, it blew off after a few minutes in the glass and wasn’t overbearing in the mouth. It’s a touch hot at the very end of the finish, but nothing out of the ordinary for a wine packing so much punch. Drink this with a hamburger, sirloin steak, runny cheese, or well-grilled veggies. If you’re really into big, jammy reds, you will also enjoy drinking this by itself.

a-8 t-9 b-8 fc-7 v-8 ~ 90 Points

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Red Wine Review: Drylands Pinot Noir

Drylands Pinot Noir Marlborough 2005

Drylands Pinot Noir Marlborough NZ wine bottleA few months back, we reviewed Drylands Sauvignon Blanc — a good, clean, nicely priced summer sipper from Marlborough, New Zealand. Not surprisingly, their Pinot Noir was similarly clean and well-valued.

The Tasting Notes

Very typical “New World” style Pinot Noir. In other words, it has wide open, bright, ripe, forward fruit on the nose and the palate. Aromas scream strawberry, red cherry, and red raspberry. Flavors are similar, with an almost jammy drench of strawberry and red raspberry upfront, which yields to mild sweet earth and some bell pepper in the midpalate and earth and black raspberry and black cherry in the finish. Acidity is mild, barely enough to match with poultry, and tannins are mild to medium. A fruity, clean, fairly polished wine that’s more like a Cru Beaujolais than a red Burgundy. Enjoyable on its own, you can also match it with mildly seasoned chicken, pork, turkey and fish, or with vegetarian dishes. Try it with Indian cuisine as well. At an SRP of $17.99, this is a good value — one of the better Pinot Noirs you’ll find under twenty bucks.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-8 ~ 88 Points

White Wine Review: La Crema Chardonnay

La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma County 2005

La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma County California wine bottleGenerally I’m not a fan of California Chardonnay, mostly because many of the examples I’ve tasted were too over the top with sugary fruit, high alcohol, and overabundant oak. Of course, not every California Chardonnay is like that, but in my experience there have been more “cocktail quaffers” than bottles appropriate for the dinner table.

However, I took a gamble on La Crema’s Chard, and paired it with two different meals: one a simply grilled chicken, and then a Greek salad that included more grilled chicken. The result: I can say confidently that La Crema Chardonnay is a fine match for grilled chicken.

It’s also an enjoyable wine overall. The nose is expressive, showing full aromas of ripe pear, apple, and a touch of spice. On the palate you get a creamy, smooth texture that carries forward, ripe pear fruit with a good dose of vanilla spice and oak and a faint touch of honey. However the oak is not overpowering — it’s right on. The ripeness is most apparent upfront, but carries through the midpalate and stays through the finish, which is appropriate in length, polished, and subdued. This wine can be described to a neophyte as smooth, buttery, and ripe. It may be more directed toward cocktail hour, as it is very enjoyable on its own. However, it has enough acidity and a touch of tannin to make it matchable with lean foods — try it with the aforementioned chicken, fish, and veggie dishes. A pleasant surprise to my palate and a recommended Weekend Wine.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-7 ~ 88 Points


La Crema Winery Website

Buy La Crema Chardonnayicon direct from Wine.com

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White Wine Review: Bailly Pouilly-Fume “Les Loges”

Michel Bailly et Fils Pouilly-Fume “Les Loges” 2005

Michel Bailly Pouilly-Fume Les Loges wine bottleIf you can’t pronounce Pouilly-Fume, don’t fret — you need only recognize it when you see it on the shelf (you can always point it out to the sommelier in a restaurant as well, without embarrassment).

And you should be on the lookout for Pouilly-Fume (POO-wee foo-MAY), because many of the ones you see in the USA are a decent bet to be a fine complement to seafood and white meat dishes — even those doused in heavy cream sauces. That’s because the wine is made from the food-friendly Sauvignon Blanc grape, which is grown in limestone-rich, chalky soil that is also rich in marine fossils (i.e., old seashells) and flint. Oh jeez … did I just go geek on you? Why should you care about the dirt? Because it’s what makes Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fume different from Sauv-Blanc from New Zealand or California. Whereas an NZ example may have a tropical twist to its flavor, Pouilly-Fume will have a more mineral taste, along with a distinct flint character — both due to the fossil-rich and minerally soil.

There are a number of different producers of Pouilly-Fume, and all the fancy French names can get confusing. Here are two very general rules of thumb: first, you usually get what you pay for when it comes to Pouilly-Fume, and a quality bottle is likely to be at least $17-22; second, the phrase “Les Loges” on the label is a fairly dependable indication of quality — it is a small village within Pouilly-Fume containing prestigious vineyards. Using these two “rules”, I came upon, purchased, and enjoyed this bottle: Michel Bailly Pouilly-Fume “Les Loges”.

And it was a very typical Pouilly-Fume: herbaceous, smoky, and green fruit aromas and flavors, with distinct stony mineral, racy acidity. Includes the standard “pipi du chat” (cat pee) / gooseberry aroma, and has plenty of forward, ripe green, flinty, smoky fruit. Also some citrus – lime, grapefruit, and maybe a touch of granny smith apple. Medium-bodied, a nearly creamy texture, and acidity that is appropriately tart but not overbearing when drunk alone. This is a first-class Sauvignon Blanc that perfectly expresses the Pouilly-Fume character: herbal, smoky, minerally. A great food wine, match it with poultry, vegetarian dishes, Thai, Indian, and salads. If you like typically herbaceous Sauvignon, you will enjoy it alone as well. At around 18 bucks, you get what you pay for — a fair value.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-9 v-7 ~ 93 Points

Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines

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