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Red Wine Review: Montes Cabernet – Carmenere

May 2, 2011 By Leave a Comment

Montes Cabernet – Carmenere Limited Selection Apalta Vineyard | Colchagua Valley, Chile

Why the sudden Carmenere kick? Well, because I was the beneficiary of a selection of Carmenere blends as a result of being included in a “twitter tasting” hosted by the Wines of Chile a few months ago. Yes, I’m sometimes (often?) slow in getting my reviews published to the blog. But hey, better late than never, right? Anyway, on to the wine.

It’s kind of funny that the label explains the wine as a “Limited Selection” — I mean, if it’s so limited how could it sell for under 15 bucks? But as a person in the business of marketing wine I understand the power of such words, ergo the reasoning behind the nonsense. Heck, I’m guilty of promoting similar types of “fantasy” hype on labels, and California wines have been doing it for decades. But I digress …

Beyond the fancy language on the label, we have a very nice wine here — which doesn’t surprise me, as I’ve enjoyed nearly every bottle I’ve Montes I’ve ever tried; they are a “reliable producer” in my book. Bright, open, and expressive red and black berry fruit aromas jump into the nose, with a slight touch of earth and bell pepper. The palate does not disappoint, offering similarly forward fruit that is ripe with red berries, sweet black fruits, and hints of earth, spice, and mild tobacco. Tannins and acidity are both soft, but there’s enough structure to keep the wine from being described as “fat” or out of balance. The finish is kind of quick but that’s hardly a complaint, considering all the juicy delicious fruit at the front end.

I matched this successfully with a smattering of dishes, including chicken pot pie, cheese and potato pierogies, and stuffed cabbage (yes, I had take-out from the Polish restaurant). It’s enjoyable on its own but also completely versatile with a variety of victuals. At around or about $15, it’s a good value.

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Red Wine Review: Santa Digna Carmenere

April 26, 2011 By Leave a Comment

Miguel Torres Santa Digna Carmenere Reserve 2009 | Chile

This is a fairly typical Carmenere from Chile, offering earthy, green and black pepper aromas that you might also associate with Merlot (hence, the confusion for so many years between the two varietals down there). The inky, almost black color in the middle of this wine belies its softness on the palate. Upfront there are juicy black and red berry fruits that move to a mild bitterness (cranberry and tobacco) in the midpalate and finish, which is quick but pleasant and without heat. Tannins are mild, but there is ample acidity for food matching. Try it with lean meats or vegan dishes.

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Emiliana Coyam

December 5, 2010 By 4 Comments

The 2007 vintage of this wine was originally sent to me by Wines of Chile for their blogger tasting in October; I tasted the 2005 vintage at an “importers seminar” at Puro Chile a few days ago. Both were led by Master Sommelier and Chilean wine expert Fred Dexheimer.

Interestingly, I didn’t realize the other day that I’d tasted the Coyam before. More interestingly, when I compared my notes, they were almost identical — and highly positive. The ’07 is not surprisingly slightly more fresh, but both are juicy, complex, and delicious wine — and one of the best I’ve had from Chile. That’s saying something, considering that my company imports some outstanding wines from De Martino.

The blend is 38% Syrah, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Carmenere, 17% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Mourvedre, all from the Colchagua Valley.

The nose exudes typical Chilean aromas, which to me are similar to earthiness you smell in a classic French Merlot — i.e., distinct green bell pepper, dirt, and tobacco — along with ripe red and black fruits and hint of chocolate. Similar flavors flow on the palate: ripe red and black berries, mild earth notes, hint of chocolate — all held together by ripe tannins and ample acidity. On its own, the tannins and acid are slightly too much, but those elements are ideal when pairing with food; I matched it perfectly with a buffalo burger.

According to the label, “coyam” is a Mapuche term meaning “oak” (the Mapuches were a tribe of peoples native to South America, particularly in Chile and Argentina). However, this wine does not have overwhelming oak influence; on the contrary, there is just enough wood to add a lovely, subtle spice component (I think this is where the chocolate element comes from).

This is a very tasty, complex, well-balanced wine that is best enjoyed with lean protein. Match it with the buffalo burgers that I did, or try it with turkey burgers, mildly spiced chili, bean-based dishes, mild cheeses.

By the way, this is also an organic / biodynamic wine, if you care.

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Valdivieso Wild Fermented Sauvignon Blanc

August 2, 2010 By Leave a Comment

What makes a wine “wild fermented”? Without going into too much detail, it means the winemaker chose let the wine ferment of its own accord, catalyzed by yeasts existing on the grape skins and in the winery. For those who don’t know the intricacies of winemaking, most wines — generally speaking — are fermented after the winemaker introduces an externally obtained yeast to the grape juice. Does it make a significant difference, which way the wine ferments? The jury is out, but there are arguments for both sides. Further, there has been some interest recently in “wild fermented” wines, as they are seen by some to be produced more “purely” or “naturally”. Whatever. Personally, I don’t care, as long as the final product tastes great. Though, I do kind of like the sound of “wild fermented” — makes the wine seem more exciting, somehow.

Tasting Notes: Valdivieso Single Vineyard Wild Fermented Sauvignon Blanc 2009

The nose is bright and expressive, with perfumey floral notes mixing with pear, grapefruit, and a hint of something that can only be described as nail polish remover. That may sound bad but in fact it didn’t take anything away from the aroma — if anything, it added a bit of complexity.

In the mouth you get white citrus fruit with some mineral notes and ample, bright acidity. The finish is pleasant, offering mild fruit, more mineral, and chalky acid coating the inside of the cheeks. It is enjoyable on its own but also good with food. Try it with sushi, mildly seasoned white fish, pasta salads, raw vegetables, and simple cheeses. At $21.99, it’s kind of pricey for a Sauvignon Blanc but I would say the price is fairly commensurate with the quality — it is on par with an entry-level Sancerre or similarly priced Sauvignon from New Zealand.

Now, the caveat … I can’t say for sure if this wine is available. I received the bottle from Wines of Chile as part of a Sauvignon Blanc blogger tasting from a few months back. However I can’t find it listed on any of the big retail-finding directories, and there is no info at all about the wine, neither on the Valdivieso website in Chile (warning, it’s made in Flash, grrrrr….), nor from the US importer Laird and Company. So maybe it’s a brand-new product, or maybe it’s always been made but never before imported. Perhaps the blogger tasting was an opportunity to test-market the wine, who knows. In any case, if you do see it, and don’t mind paying over $20 for a Chilean Sauvignon Blanc, it’s worth trying.

a-7 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-7 ~ 88 Points

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Cabernet Sauvignon Review: Rayun

October 29, 2008 By Leave a Comment

Rayun Cabernet Sauvignon wine labelIn these difficult economic times, we wine geeks with short pockets must do a better job of hunting down the great values. Traditionally, I have looked to South America for dirt cheap deals on deliciously drinkable wines.

At one time, Chile was a great place to find fantastic values. Then the secret got out, and Chilean bottles went up in cost — allowing Argentina to arrive as an affordable area for the adventurous. But of course, eventually enough people discovered Argentina, driving the prices up. While the see-saw continues today, I’m happy to report that nicely priced daily drinkers are still available from both countries — but they take a little more time and effort to unearth.

In this case, you need to look away from the better-known producers and toward the Rapel Valley, an area which has a history of producing fine red wines based on the Carmenere and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes. The winery is “Rayun” and it’s not always found on the eye-level shelves of the wine shop — so stoop down and check the lower levels and the bargain bins (use your knees, so you don’t hurt your back!). At around seven or eight bucks, it’s a good value.

Tasting Notes: Rayun Cabernet Sauvignon 2007

Open nose of dirty earth, tobacco, green bell pepper, some black fruit (cassis, blackberry). Smooth texture, almost creamy mouthfeel. Good ripe black fruit flavor — blackberry, cassis, black raspberry — with a hint of spice and mild earth. Acidity and tannins are about equal, both mild to medium and in fair balance to the fruit level. A nice, soft, red wine that is a decent choice as an everyday drinker. About what you would expect from an under-$10 Chilean Cab — tastes more like a Merlot. Enjoy it alone or with mild cheeses, pasta in marinara, turkey burgers, simple “bistro” fare.

a-7 t-7 b-9 fc-9 v-8 ~ 90 points

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