Red Wines

Merryvale Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyards Vineyard X Oakville

Now we’re getting into the serious Cabernet Sauvignons.

Merryvale is one of my favorite California wineries, based on its consistently good quality, well-valued Starmont line. Because their “entry level” bottlings are enjoyable, it would stand to reason that their high-end wines would be even better. Merryvale’s Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Vineyards “Vineyard X” Oakville proves the point.

It’s called “Beckstoffer” because the grapes come from Andy Beckstoffer’s vineyards on the “Oakville Bench” in Napa Valley — this collaboration has been going on since 1992, and this particular wine has only been made five times. Only 1500 cases were made, with the grapes coming from three different “blocks” of vineyard (these are parts of a vineyard that have been specifically identified and cared for, for one reason or another; in short, it means the vines are of high quality, in a fantastic location, and old). After fermentation, the wine spent 18 months in French oak barrels (66% of them new) and was bottled unfiltered.

The nose has typical Cabernet aromas – black fruits, leather, earth, tar, black pepper – as well as a good dose of black licorice and some spice. In the mouth it is full, fruit-forward, and borderline jammy. Flavors are complex and delicious, showing black raspberry, black currant, cassis, blueberry, boysenberry, earth, coffee, tar, tobacco, pepper, and slight twinges of spice and a vegetal component. Texture is smooth, almost creamy. Acidity is at a good level for food and a fine foil for the big fruit. Tannins are ripe, and of medium intensity. This wine was a bit softer than I expected; I was expecting a huge, bold, tannic monster. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised to find this very drinkable, and immensely enjoyable. A tasty, polished, classy wine that is best enjoyed with a cheese plate, steaks, beef roasts, beef stew – anything with beef, in fact. At around 75 bucks, this ain’t cheap … but if you can afford it, it’s worth the dough.

a-9 t-10 b-9 fc-8 v-7 ~ 93 Points

Winery: Merryvale

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Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

As mentioned in the last post, I’ve been on a Cabernet binge.

Mount Veeder is both a winery and an appellation — it is an official AVA within Napa Valley, consisting of about 25 square miles along a steep mountainside in the Mayacamas Mountains. The area is rich with volcanic soil and tends to produce powerful, long-lived wines.

Mount Veeder, the estate and winery, has been around since the 1960s, and released its first bottling in 1973. Owners Michael and Arlene Bernstein were the first vintners in Napa Valley to successfully grow all five traditional Bordeaux grapes (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot) on one property.

The nose is slightly closed, but still giving good aromas of black fruits, eucalyptus, and some earth. On the palate, the wine is surprisingly open upfront, giving a mildly jammy black raspberry flavor. From there, though, this wine gets very serious, as a mad rush of complex flavors, good acidity, and ripe, firm tannins enter the picture. Wild berry fruit, black fruits, some tar, leather, tobacco, earth, and a touch of spice fight for attention in your mouth, and linger through a long, pleasing finish. A lot of attitude here, and gobs of concentrated fruit. Tannins are fairly aggressive, begging for protein. Match it with ribeye steak, strong cheeses.

a-8 t-10 b-9 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

Winery: Mount Veeder

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Stonestreet Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley 2004

I’m on a Cabernet binge lately, so there will be a run of reviews on the grape coming your way.

Initially, there was almost nothing on the nose – it was closed up. After letting it sit in the glass for about an hour and a half, some aromas started to eek out. Blackcurrant, black raspberry, menthol / eucalyptus, some earth. On the palate it is glassy smooth in texture, with ample black fruit and earth flavors. Tannins are medium high, acidity is medium. There is a lot going on here, too much to analyze now. It’s a young wine that at minimum needs a few hours of decanting before drinking now, but a better plan is to leave it in the cellar for a few years. A big, bold wine that reminds one of a cru Bourgeois Bordeaux, definitely Bordeaux in style with many layers hiding right now. Cellar it, and try again in 3-4 years. A good value for a wine of this complexity.

Addendum: this wine passed the “next night” test … in fact, I corked it up and drank it again five days later and it still held its character.

a-8 t-9 b-8 fc-7 v-8 ~ 90 Points

Winery: Stonestreet

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Argiano NC (Non Confiditur) 2004

For those of you who wasted away your childhood watching Saturday morning cartoons such as Fat Albert and the Cosby Kids may remember “NC” being the abbreviation for “no class” — which the character Russell invariably used to insult Rudy.

However, this wine has plenty of class, and in fact the “NC” stands for “Non Confunditur”, a latin term which the Argiano family uses as their motto. Unfortunately, I have no idea what the term means because instead of taking latin as a kid I wasted away my time watching cartoons. Anyway …

This is a Tuscan blend of 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 20% Sangiovese, and 20% Syrah – all from vineyards in the Montalcino district. It’s an IGT, and could be considered a “baby Super Tuscan”. All those great grapes put together, spending a full year in oak barrels, and then another four months in bottle before release, and yet it still retails for under twenty bucks. Amazing.

The nose is deep, rich with aromas of leather saddle, black fruit, tobacco, earth, tar, peppermint, and something else green or herbal — eucalyptus? Sage? Bay leaf? I’m not sure, I really need to get better at this. The palate has similar flavors, dominated by sweet black cassis fruit, sweet tobacco, a touch of anise and red licorice, and some mocha / chocolate hints. Acidity is low, tannins are medium and firm. The texture is very smooth. There’s a bit of hotness that appears momentarily but fades away by the finish, which has good fruit (black raspberry, cassis, black licorice, tar, tobacco) and is fairly well balanced. The acidity isn’t high enough to match with tomato sauce, so try it instead with hard and soft cheeses, grilled meats, lamb chops.

This is a wine that drinks like a big boy, but not priced like one. A good value.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-8 ~ 89 Points

Importer: Vias

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Masi Costasera Amarone 2001

Amarone is a big, fairly expensive, red wine from Italy that matches with a fairly small variety of foods. Although, if braised beef cheeks, lamb steaks, venison stew, or similarly gamey dishes are frequent in your home, you may disagree. Since I almost always drink wine with food as a rule, and I have neither the time nor the stomach to braise beef cheeks, Amarone has a hard time breaking into my routine.

Still, there are times when Amarone is perfect — most often, in my case, as an after-dinner drinker with a chunk of cheese (aged Parmegiano-Reggiano is a good choice). And once a bottle is started, it’s hard not to finish; Amarone can be a stunning, intriguing, highly complex, and seductive wine to contemplate over.

Tasting Notes: Masi Amarone “Costasera”

Nose is still a bit closed, but deep down are some aromas of bitter earth, tobacco, distinctly herbal spices (sage, thyme, bay leaf, maybe the slightest hint of rosemary), ash, and some black fruits – licorice, prune, cassis. On the palate the texture is smooth, the flavors are sweet prune, cassis, black licorice, mulberry, black raspberry. Tannins are ripe and surprisingly tame for Amarone, but still bigger than most red wines; I’d call the level medium to medium high. Acidity is medium. Another surprise is the alcohol, which is lower than expected. The finish could be longer, but is in better balance than similar wines. Flavors in the finish include blackberry, herbs, tobacco, and tar. Do not make the mistake of pouring this wine directly from bottle to glass – it needs to breathe, and it needs some time. Pour it into a decanter, then pour it again into another decanter, and let it sit for at least 10-15 minutes before tasting — otherwise it may seem harsh instead of polished, and you’ll likely miss out on the complexity and subtle nuances that make this wine special. It will probably be a nice match for lamb, gamey dishes, roast pork loin, or a hunk of hard cheese. A fine, polished wine to open up next to the fire on a cold winter night.

a-8 t-8 b-9 fc-7 v-9 ~ 91 Points

Importer: Remy USA

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Domaine de Gournier Merlot 2005

Ever since reading the novel Sideways(and watching the movie), I’ve been obsessed with finding quality Merlot wines — so forgive me if I post too many reviews on them.

This one comes from France, from the southwestern part of the country (officially, “South West”) — a region that is often overlooked by the wine snobs because of its history as an area of high-volume production. However, there are many, many, tiny producers strewn throughout the South West, from places such as Languedoc-Roussillon, Costieres de Nimes, and Provence — which is where Domaine de Gournier is situated.

Luckily, there is an American importer by the name of Bobby Kacher who knows this area pretty well, and brings in some high quality bottles at more than fair prices. This Merlot is no exception.

Tasting Notes: Domaine de Gournier Merlot

A bright, ripe, open red wine. On the nose is black fruit, tar, tobacco, earth, and black pepper. . Luscious and jammy upfront, spilling over with black and red raspberries. Smooth as glass texture, almost creamy, carrying the ripe fruit into a well balanced finish of mild acidity, medium tannins, and plenty of berries and spice. Match it with burgers, chili, sloppy joes, tacos, and cheesy dishes. A full, fruit-forward, classy wine that over-delivers on its price. At about nine bucks or less, it is a great value.

a-8 t-8 b-10 fc-8 v-10 ~ 94 Points

Importer: Robert Kacher Selections

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Umberto Fiore Barbera d’Alba 2004

If you’ve been reading this blog for a while then you know I’m a sucker for a good Barbera — especially when I find one around fifteen bucks or under. This particular example fits the bill, being right in the $13-15 range and offering strong compatibility with a number of foods.

Tasting Notes: Umberto Fiore Barbera

Bright, wide open nose of ripe black cherry, black and red raspberry, along with sweet ripe earth, tobacco, vanilla spice and pepper. Smooth, glassy texture in the mouth carries ripe raspberry, black cherry, and sweet earthy notes. Acidity is medium, and ample for food matching. Tannins are mild to medium, offering good structure. Well balanced for a food wine, fruit lingers in the finish. A bright, happy, juicy, and enjoyable wine to drink with pasta in marinara, sausage and peppers, meatball / veal / eggplant chicken parm, or a hunk of parm-reggiano cheese.

a-8 t-8 b-9 fc-9 v-8 ~ 92 Points

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Vasco Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino 2003

Imported by Saranty Imports – from Total Wine and More

From Montalcino comes the huge, ageworthy, and expensive wines known as Brunello. Montalcino is a very hot growing area south of the Chianti region in Italy, with the main grape being a strain of Sangiovese — though down there they may call it Sangiovese Grosso or Prugnolo. For those who can’t afford — or can’t wait — for Brunello, luckily there is a somewhat lighter and less-expensive wine called “Rosso di Montalcino”. Usually the “Rosso” is made from grapes deemed not worthy enough for Brunello production, but still fine for making quality wine.

The big name in Montalcino is Sassetti, as the estranged brothers Livio and Angelo seem in a fierce competition to create the best Brunello in the region. I’d never heard of Vasco Sassetti, but figured that name matched with wine from Montalcino had to be decent. Turns out my instincts were correct.

Tasting Notes: Vasco Sassetti Rosso di Montalcino

The nose is wide open, beginning to mature, with rich ripe aromas of black cherry, earth, tar, black pepper, black raspberry, some eucalyptus and a hint of tobacco. In the mouth it is equally complex and interesting, with flavors of ripe raspberry, black cherry, tobacco, tar, earth, and a touch of spice. Acidity is drying and appropriately creeping toward sharp, and tannins are medium. A perfect match for a hunk of parmigiano reggiano cheese, and also nice to drink with sausage pizza, mac and cheese, grilled skirt steak, tripe, sweetbreads, and most any dish dominated by protein and cheese.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-9 v-8 ~ 90 Points

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Icardi Barbera d’Asti 2004

Importer: Vinifera

One of my favorite red wines for food is Barbera — specifically from Italy, and usually from the areas of Asiti, Alba, or Monferrato in Piedmont / Piemonte. The tricky thing about Barbera, though, is the wide range of styles and price points. On the one end of the spectrum, there are Barberas that cost upward of $40-50+ that require cellaring; on the lower end, you have ideal pizza partners for around ten bucks — and all types in between.

My very general rule of thumb is to look for a Barbera in the $10-$17 range for everyday drinking with simple Italian fare. Once in a while I’ll find a remarkable value under ten bucks, and there are rare occasions that my alligator arm reaches down for a thirty-dollar bottle.

In this case, I was able to purchase a very food-friendly Barbera for right in my “safe zone” — about $14.

Tasting Notes - Icardi Barbera

More like a Chianti than a Barbera, with dry cherry aromas and flavors and a good dose of mouthwatering acidity. Nose of ripe black cherry, cola, and hints of earth. Flavors were similar — black cherry, cranberry, raspberry, mild tobacco, and tar. Acidity is high, in line with the ample fruit and ideal for food matching. Tannins are mild to medium. Finishes fairly quickly, but with good balance and harmony. Drink this with red-sauce pasta dishes, lean meats, sausage, pizza, sloppy joes.

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-9 v-8 ~ 88 Points

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Garnacha de Fuego 2006

Importer: Tempranillo Imports (Jorge Ordonez Selection)

Grenache of fire! I guess that means it’s pretty darn hot in Catalayud, Spain, where the vines of this grape grow. Garnacha / Grenache is a hot weather whore of a grape, much like Syrah and Zinfandel.

Luckily, this wine outperforms the old Renault Fuego (with or without the biturbo, it makes no difference).

For the uninitiated, Garnacha is the same grape known as Grenache in France, California, and many other areas of the world. In fact, Grenache / Garnacha is one of the most widely planted grapes in the world, though it’s most commonly associated with the hot, arid regions in the south of France, the southern Rhone Valley and throughout Spain. If you’re unfamiliar with the Garnacha of Spain, it may be helpful to know that Grenache is usually one of the base grapes of Cotes-du-Rhone and Chateauneuf-du-Pape (often, these wines also have Syrah, Cinsault, Mourvedre, and other grapes blended in as well).

But enough of the French version; this wine es de Espana, and does a fair job of representing the Catalayud region. Though “DO Catalayud” (”DO” is pronounced “dee - oh” and is short for Denomination of Origin) is fairly new to US consumers, in fact they’ve been making wine there for oh, about 2000 years. The region sits in the province of Zaragoza, toward the western boundary of Spain and sort of in the middle (between north and south). It should not be confused with Cataluna, which is another DO entirely and is covers several provinces. OK, enough with the boring details, let’s taste the wine …

Tasting Notes - Garnacha de Fuego

On the nose, this wine shows ripe black fruits: black raspberry and prune, with a touch of eucalyptus, pepper, and a smidgeon of earth. The palate offers a silky smooth texture, warm black raspberry, black cherry, and plum, with a touch of spice – maybe vanilla? Acidity and tannins are medium, appropriate for food but not so high that they’re overbearing when this wine is drunk by itself. Drink it with burgers, skirt steaks, cheese, tacos. At around eight bucks or less, this is a very good value. Yet another winner from perhaps the best importer without a decent website, Jorge Ordonez.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-9 ~ 89 Points

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Easton Zinfandel Amador County 2006

I’m looking for wines for Thanksgiving, so I’m looking for American. There’s no grape more American than Zinfandel, and it just so happens that Zins can be a decent match for the Thanksgiving meal. The “Easton” label draws my eye because in addition to being a wine geek I’m also a baseball geek, and Easton is the brand name for the most popular aluminum baseball bat. I turn the bottle to read the label and the wine is from Plymouth, California. Plymouth, as in Plymouth Rock (yes, I know the Mayflower stopped at the Plymouth Rock in Massachusetts … work with me here). Do I even need to move on to the tasting notes? It’s already a pickup for Thanksgiving, for nothing more than a conversation piece.

As it turns out, the wine is fabulous with the turkey and most of the trimmings. Though it has open, forward flavors on the palate, it’s not over the top but rather on the soft side, at least as far as Zinfandels go. The nose tempts with bright raspberry, blackberry, plum, and earthy aromas, with a touch of tar. In the mouth you get flavors of ripe blackberry, black raspberry, black cherry, blueberry, a spicy component, and hints of earth, tobacco, black pepper. The finish is only a touch hot with tar and ripe tannins dominating. The texture is smooth – almost creamy – the acidity is medium-low to medium, the tannins are a bit under medium. The wine works with the dark meat, and is just soft enough to compliment the white meat as long as you pour on the chestnut gravy and/or take a bite of stuffing with it. It surprisingly did not spoil the taste in my mouth after chowing down brussel sprouts – which is pretty impressive. Overall it is a fine choice for the Thanksgiving table. At $15.99, it’s a fair value.

a-7 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 89 Points

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Wyatt Pinot Noir 2006

Tasting Notes

Nose exhibits ripe red berry fruit – raspberry, black cherry, and a touch of earth and a floral element (rose petals?). In the mouth you get good ripe strawberry, raspberry, and black cherry. There is the slightest hint of a green / stemmy / herbaceous flavor that melds well with the ripe fruits. Some spice – a touch of vanilla, black pepper, and earth. Acidity is appropriately medium, tannins are soft. Texture is smooth. A touch of hotness / alcohol in the finish, which is otherwise pleasant. The flavors are ripe and enjoyable for drinking alone but subtle enough for favorable food matching. An outstanding wine for the Thanksgiving table, as it pairs well with turkey, herbaceous stuffing (i.e., rosemary, thyme), and most of the other Thansgiving fixins’. Overall a very well put together Pinot Noir at a very fair price. This wine is as close to Burgundian in style as I’ve experienced from California (that is a compliment); in fact if tasted blind I might have guessed it was a simple Bourgogne or possibly a Monthelie (if you’re a geek you might know what I’m talking about; if not, take my word for it, it’s a very nice wine).

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-9 v-10 ~ 93 Points

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Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais Nouveau and Beaujolais-Village Nouveau 2007

Strangely, I had a hard time finding a bottle of Beaujolais Nouveau — of any vintage — in the wee hours of this morning. Eventually, however, I found TWO, both from the “King of Beaujolais” Georges Duboeuf.

Tasting Notes: Beaujolais Nouveau 2007

Color: Lighter than recent years — looks like a deep rose wine. Magenta in the middle, turning to violet and blue at the edge.

Nose: Bright, fruity, lively, with aromas of red cherry, cherry candy, raspberry, a floral element (violets?) and a slight hint of ripe banana.

Palate: Smooth, glassy texture. Ripe, round, delicious red cherry, fresh plum, sweet pomegranate. Finishes dry and pleasant and not as quickly as expected. A touch of heat at the very end, along with an appropriate level of tart acidity. Overall a fun, bright, and zesty wine.

a-7 t-8 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 89 Points

Tasting Notes: Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau 2007

Color: Magenta in the middle, transparent, with light purple on the edge.

Nose: Slightly more subdued than the “regular” Nouveau, with similar red cherry aroma. A slight touch of earth and black cherry. To my nose, this smells similar to a “regular” Beaujolais-Villages.

Palate: Glassy texture. Red and black cherry fruit, slightly earthy with a touch of bitterness. Acidity is tart / medium. Guess what? This wine has tannins! — something unexpected from a nine-week-old wine. Finishes with some hotness at the very end.

The Beaujolais-Villages Nouveau from Georges Duboeuf is new to the US, though I believe other producers have been sending it here in past years. I don’t believe much of it is imported however, so you may have trouble finding it. Personally, I’m not a huge fan of “regular” Beaujolais-Villages, and this Nouveau version shares its character. That said, if you like Beaujolais-Villages, I think this will be a good preview of what to expect later in the year when the traditionally bottled B-V appears.

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-8 v-7 ~ 86 Points

Conclusion

As mentioned earlier in the week, the key to enjoying Beaujolais Nouveau is to take it for what it is: a wine that hasn’t been aged. It’s all about managing expectations — if you expect it to compare to your favorite Aussie Shiraz, then Beaujolais Nouveau will seem thin and underwhelming. If you consider it and match it with food as you would a typical fuller style of rose, you may find it appealing.

Over the next week or so I will continue stalking the local wine shops in search of Nouveau from other producers and publish my notes. Please share your own tasting notes with us — for any Nouveau you try — by posting them in the comments.

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Beaujolais Nouveau — the first wine of the 2007 vintage (from the Northern Hemisphere, anyway) arrives tomorrow.

Here is almost everything you need to know about Beaujolais Nouveau …

What is Beaujolais?

Beaujolais is a region in France, just south of Burgundy; depending on who you talk to, some experts will include Beaujolais in their discussion of Burgundian wine. It is made up of 12 appellations (or specific winegrowing areas) — thus the “s” at the end of the name.

What is Beaujolais Nouveau?

Beaujolais Nouveau is a wine made from Gamay grapes grown in the Beaujolais region and released in the same year of its harvest.

When does Beaujolais Nouveau arrive?

Bottles of the current year’s Beaujolais Nouveau are officially released on the third Thursday of November. For many years, the official date was November 15th (ironically, this year’s arrival date), but in 1985 it was decided that a Thursday release would bring about a more festive celebration, as people tend to party on the weekend. What? you don’t start your weekends on Thursday? Might be time to move to France.

What is the history of Beaujolais Nouveau?

Legend has it that the wine was something of a cult wine in the French bistros, bars, and cafes surrounding Beaujolais and Lyons, produced by the local growers and delivered in barrels. In the 1960s, Nouveau was bottled and marketed outside of France for the first time, and the rest is marketing history.

How is Beaujolais Nouveau made?

Few other wines are produced, bottled, and released within a few weeks of the harvest. The most strategic way to do this is to employ a winemaking method called carbonic maceration. Without getting too technical, carbonic maceration is essentially the fermentation of grapes occurring inside the skins. Traditionally, the winemaking process begins with the crushing of grapes; the juice of the grapes is pushed out of the skins and gradually ferments. For red wines, this juice is often left to sit with its skins so that tannins are extracted, giving the wine a fuller, more concentrated structure, and often adding some bitter flavors. With carbonic maceration, the grapes are not crushed. Rather, the grapes are piled on top of each other in a sealed container that is filled with carbon dioxide. More CO2 is emitted by the grapes on the bottom of the container, as it is gently crushed by the weight of the top grapes. All this carbon dioxide causes fermentation to take place inside the grape skins (don’t ask why, take a chemistry course!). The resulting wine is fresh, fruity, and very low in tannins.

What Does Beaujolais Nouveau Taste Like?

It’s hard to say, because it tastes different every year. Typically, it’s a lot like a kicked-up grape juice. Nouveau will have very bright, fresh, red fruit flavors, such as cherry, strawberry, and raspberry, and will be delivered to your palate with a distinct zing. Because of the lack of tannins, it should be very soft in the mouth, and easy to drink. Beaujolais Nouveau is not a wine to sniff, swirl, and contemplate; it’s a wine to pour and party with. Consider it a beverage accessory.

How should I drink Beaujolais Nouveau?

Chilled. Unlike most red wines, you will want to put a Nouveau bottle in the fridge for about 15-20 minutes before drinking, as a slight chill will bring out the fresh flavors. Don’t have the time for that? Pour it over ice cubes! One of the fantastic things about drinking Beaujolais Nouveau is that wine snobs won’t come within 50 feet of it. So, you have the pleasure of performing all sorts of wine sacrilege on it. Drink it on the rocks, out of a plastic cup, with a straw, straight out of the bottle if you want. There’s a whole website devoted to drinking the “wine without rules”, including tips on throwing a Beaujolais Nouveau arrival party.

Another thing: drink it within a few months of release. Because of the way it is made — by carbonic maceration — Nouveau has almost no tannins, and tannins are one of main preservatives of red wine. With no natural preservative, the fresh fruit flavors you taste in Beaujolais Nouveau in November will fade away by the following spring (or sooner). But that’s not such a bad thing — that’s around the same time the “real” Beaujolais wines are released. In a way, Beaujolais Nouveau is a preview of what’s to come in the way of Beaujolais Villages and Beaujolais crus, such as Morgon, Moulin-a-Vent, and Julienas. More on those wines in a future article.

What foods match with Beaujolais Nouveau?

NOT red meat, that’s for sure. Because of the lack of tannins, you’ll want to avoid proteins, for the most part. However, it’s fresh fruitiness will match remarkably well with simple foods such as pigs in blankets, sausage, ham salad, and macaroni and cheese. There’s a French dish called Gougeres that is typically served with Beaujolais Nouveau; essentially it is a cheese puff made with Gruyere. Nouveau is also a good choice to match with fondue. The timing of Nouveau’s release couldn’t be better for Americans, as it may well be the perfect bottle to bring to Thanksgiving dinner. At one week old, it is just bright and fresh enough to go with turkey, and it has the versatility to complement nearly all the trimmings — particularly the cranberry sauce.

How is this year’s Beaujolais Nouveau?

Vignerons in Beaujolais report that the 2007 vintage will offer full ripe fruit and a round body and will be the best Nouveau in several years. Of course, wine producers will always promote a new wine positively, but I think we can trust that 2007 Nouveau will be fresh, ripe, and fruity. We’ll know for sure in just a few days.

Where Can I Buy Beaujolais Nouveau?

Around the end of November, it will be hard NOT to buy, as it is the most heavily promoted wine upon release. Most wine shops and liquor stores will begin carrying Beaujolais Nouveau on its release date: the third Thursday of November every year (November 15th in 2007). Cases and bottles of Nouveau will likely be surrounded by colorful bunting, banners, balloons, and posters from that date through the new year.

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Following are the notes sent to me by Georges Duboeuf regarding the 2007 vintage of Beaujolais Nouveau. We’ll find out tomorrow if the tasting notes are true.

As other producers send me their notes, I’ll post them here.

Vintage Notes

2007 was a very atypical year. The quality came from a blistering month of April which accelerated the flowering of the vine. Then the weather during the summer months was quite erratic. On the other hand, the last days of August were very sunny and in the end, the North wind came in September, concentrating the juice in the berries and maintaining a healthy state.
The Beaujolais harvest was fortunate to take place under excellent weather conditions during the first three weeks of September, while most everywhere else in France the weather turned disagreeable towards the end of the month.

Tasting Notes

The colors of the 2007 Beaujolais Nouveau range from a crimson red to red tinged with violet purple. On the nose it is bright, fruity and lively, with red cherry, fresh raspberry and with crushed strawberries. “My initial impression on the palate is of fresh grapes with crisp and delicious flavors of red cherry, fresh plum and sweet pomegranate that mimic the light-hearted aromatics,” explained Duboeuf. “This is a Beaujolais Nouveau that shows the purity of the Gamay grape and the brilliance of a pleasant and delicious young wine.”

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Renwood Zinfandel 2004 Sierra Foothills

In reference to Zinfandel, when in doubt, find one from a winery beginning with the letter “R”. Renwood, Ravenswood, Ridge, Rosenblum, and Rabbit Ridge, for example, all offer fine examples of California Zinfandel, at various price points.

While perusing the local Total Wine & More — which is kind of like the Home Depot of wine shops — I came upon a shelf with a number of 2004 Zins at unusually lower-than-normal prices. Not crazy low, but a few dollars and enough to make me notice. This told me one of three things: 1. the retailer was running a special sale; 2. the distributor needed to clear out some old inventory; 3. 2004 was a poor vintage for California Zin; or 4. all of the above.

I figured, what the heck, and picked up this red-labeled bottle with the cute little bird.

What I found out later is that Robert Parker Jr. rated 2004 Zinfandel as merely an 82 in his venerable snob scribe The Wine Advocate (interestingly, the Wine Enthusiast lists ‘04 Zin as between 87 and 90). According to Parker, “82″ falls in the range of “above average to excellent”. Luckily for us bargain hunters, the nose-turned-upward crowd rarely pick up a wine that is scored less than 90, so these “above average” bottles can often be had at rock-bottom prices. Generally, this bottle can be found for somewhere between $10-12, but I found it for less than nine bucks.

Tasting Notes

Nose is fairly open, showing dirty earth, some black fruit, and a smoky element. Texture is very smooth, carrying black cassis fruit, significant earth, tar, and tobacco flavors. Acidity is mild, tannins are medium, alcohol is refreshingly low for a Zinfandel. Overall, this wine is OK on its own, a soft style of Zin without the over-the-top, jammy fruit you may find in other California Zinfandels. Enjoy it with food, particularly simple bistro fare such as chicken pot pie, mac and cheese, turkey burgers, shepherd’s pie, lean meat loaf. Reminds me of an easydrinking Cotes du Rhone.

a-7 t-7 b-7 fc-7 v-7 ~ 85 Points

Renwood website (WJ Deutsch)

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Merryvale Reserve Merlot 2003 Napa Valley

Did you watch Sideways? And did you buy into the whole idea that Merlot is for “pedestrian” wine drinkers, and otherwise not worthy of your attention?

OK, then, move on … nothing to see here. (And more Merlot for me!)

For those who remain, following is my opinion of Merryvale Merlot Reserve 2003. Merryvale is a brand I’ve found to have a consistently strong price:value ratio — and once in a while deliver a knockout. This particular bottle is excellent, made from 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Petit Verdot grapes from four of Merryvale’s vineyards in Napa Valley.

Tasting Notes

Nose is fairly open, showing ripe, deep aromas of black berry fruit, sweet and bitter earth, mild hint of licorice. On the palate the texture is as smooth as glass, carrying ripe, luscious red and black raspberry, blueberry, a touch of mulberry, hint of vanilla, some sweet earth, black pepper, and the slightest bit of green bell pepper. In other words, very complex, and enjoyable. Both tannins and acidity are medium to medium high, and hold the fruit together well. Some alcohol is apparent on the finish, heating things up a bit, but not so much that it is overbearing. The finish is lengthy and enjoyable, with plenty of fruit giving way to ripe tannins after around a minute. Overall this is an excellent example of a ripe Napa Valley Merlot fruit, bordering on a jammy fruit bomb – but staying just below that to be a polished, well balanced wine for enjoyment on its own or with food. Best with steak, roasted or grilled game, and fine cheeses. A kick ass wine that is hitting on all cylinders right now. Note that this is not the “Starmont” line – which is also a good value – but rather a “Reserve”, which is $10-15 more and more difficult to find, but well worth the search. Even at $39 this is a good value, and a fantastic choice for steak.

a-8 t-9 b-10 fc-9 v-8 ~ 94 Points

Merryvale Vineyards Website

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Saint Clair Vicar’s Choice Pinot Noir 2006

Since the Sideways-induced boom of Pinot Noir, a number of affordable bottlings have been emerging from down under — meaning New Zealand rather than Australia. And it makes sense, as the most prominent wine region in Kiwi land is Marlborough, which just so happens to have the ideal climate for growing Pinot Noir vines — dry, sunny, and cool.

Tasting Notes

From the Marlborough region of New Zealand comes this bottle, dubbed “Vicar’s Choice” by the producer Saint Clair. As you might expect, Saint Clair also makes a fine Sauvignon Blanc, which we may review at a later date. For now, let’s talk about the Pinot Noir.

The color is very light — it could be mistaken for a deep rose — but the paleness belies its bigness. Open nose of stemmy green fruit, ripe cherry and raspberry, some hints of earth. Flavors are similar — ripe cherry, raspberry, and cranberry, with touches of earth, mild tobacco, mineral, and a hint of green / unripe fruit. Acidity is surprisingly medium-high, and appropriate for the fruit concentration. Tannins are medium, and also in good balance. The wine finishes with sour cranberry and cherry flavors, ripe tannins, and mouthwatering acidity.

Overall this is an excellent under-$20 Pinot Noir, showing good complexity and polish. Its subtle greenness and minerality reminds one more of an Alsace Pinot Noir than a jammy example from the New World — which is a good thing. It is enjoyable on its own but really finds its potential on the table. Match it with simply prepared chicken, complex fish, turkey, vegetarian dishes, roast pork (pork loin), mild cheeses.

I’ve seen this at various price points between $12 and $18; even at the higher end, it’s a fair value (and a great one at the lower point). Whatever the cost, it’s a good choice as a “weekend wine”.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-9 v-9 ~ 92 Points

Importer: Winesellers Ltd.

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Domaine d’ Andezon Cotes du Rhone 2004

It’s autumn in the Northern Hemisphere and that means it’s time to start transitioning from the heat of summer to the cold of winter. Oh, and from the light, crisp, cold white wines to the heavier bodied, warm red wines — to match the richer, warmer dishes and “comfort foods” people tend to enjoy more as the weather gets chilly. One wine that seems to go hand in hand with the fall season is Cotes du Rhone, a hearty red wine from the southern Rhone region of France.

Cotes-du-Rhone (COAT- duh - RONE) — or “CDR” for short — is found under many brand names, and usually a blend dominated by the grapes Syrah and Grenache (although several other grapes can be contained, including but not limited to Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Carignane). The grapes can be harvested from all over the Rhone region, though most come from the southern part of the region. Many wineries make both a red version and a white version (the white usually includes Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, and/or Grenache Blanc), but the reds are much more popular in the States.

It used to be that CDRs were heavy, fairly tannic wines that would match well only with high-protein foods. However, the Cotes-du-Rhones on the shelf today are for the most part more lively, fruity, and fun compared to their ancestors. You may hear some Frenchmen refer to CDR as a “bistro wine”, because it will go with a number of simple dishes you might find on the menu of a French bistro — such as hamburger, mac and cheese, meat pies, stews, braises, roast chicken, etc.

Tasting Notes

This particular bottle is from Domaine d’Andezon, which is a 25-acre estate in the village of Estezargues, situated on the southwestern edge of the Rhone Valley delta. Included in the vineyards are low-yielding Syrah vines that are up to 100 years old (that’s a big deal; old vines mean longer roots, which many people think deliver more complexity to the fruit).

Fresh, bright, ripe red berry flavors dominate the nose and palate, along with some black berry, earth, and pepper. Red raspberry, black raspberry, black cherry, a touch of red licorice are some of the flavors I get. Very clean, with a smooth texture. Acidity and tannins are equal, and somewhere between mild and medium intensity. This wine is rich and mouthfilling enough to be very appealing on its own, and is even better with food.

Drink this with burgers, stews, shepherd’s pie, pot roast, and similar “bistro” dishes.

A solid wine, a good choice as an everyday red for the dinner table. At less than ten bucks, a good value.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Importer: Eric Solomon Selections / European Wine Cellars

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Fattoria San Fabiano Chianti Putto 2004

Chianti has been, and remains, one of my favorite “fall back” wines — a bottle I can open with almost anything, and because of the relatively inexpensive cost, not feel guilty about uncorking to match with a simple everyday meal.

That said, I’m constantly on the lookout for a reasonably priced ($10-$15), quality Chianti. Notice I didn’t say “Chianti Riserva” or “single vineyard” Chianti — these tend to cost upwards of twenty to thirty dollars or more, and deserve to be contemplated over a hunk of grana or a Tuscan-grilled steak or homemade meatballs and marinara. What I’m referring to here is a simple, easy drinking Chianti that will be enjoyable with, say, a slice of pizza or pasta with jar-made sauce.

As usual, my favorite Italian importer Vias comes through with a good bang-for-the-buck bottle, San Fabiano Chianti “Putto”. It’s made from a somewhat traditional Chianti blend — 60% Sangiovese, 20% Malvasia Nera, 10% Cannaiolo, 10% Ciliegiolo 20% Malvasia Toscana — something we’re seeing less and less of since the Consorzio began allowing up to 100% Sangiovese in Chianti Classico DOCG.

San Fabiano Tasting Notes

Good black cherry character, good acidity, well balanced, smooth enough texture, easy going finish. Matches well with all types of food. For about ten bucks, you can’t go wrong. Added bonus: it passed the “two night test” ; it drank nearly as well after being recorked (half bottle left, no carbonation) and poured again the next evening. Match it with pizza, pasta and marinara, mac and cheese, cured meats (i.e., antipasti plate), and similarly simple dishes.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-9 v-7 ~ 88 Points

Importer: Vias Wine

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Silver Spur Pinot Noir 2002

I have to admit, I was expecting very little from this wine. Silver Spur was completely unknown to me, as I’d never seen the winery name in a retail shop, on a restaurant list, nor read in a wine magazine. It was sent to me by MyWinesDirect, an internet-only retailer that specializes in introducing unknown wines to ignorant palates such as mine.

With such low expectations, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the wine, immediately apparent after being poured into the glass. The nose is forward, and open, and exudes a fresh, ripe aroma of strawberries, black cherry, earth, and a distinctive smokiness. Though this wine hails from California (specifically, Carneros in Napa Valley), it is more “old world” in style – one of the few American Pinot Noirs that remind me of red Burgundy. Unlike the jammy, over-the-top Pinots typically produced in the West Coast heat, this wine is ripe but not overwhelming, and retains both a rustic character and a tie to its terroir (soil).

In the mouth it has a silky smooth texture, and fills the mouth with ripe black cherry, red raspberry, ripe strawberry, some vanilla spice, and a touch of earth and leather. Acidity is appropriately medium, and tannins are likewise. Alcohol is there but subdued, so the finish is barely warm. All in all, an elegant, polished wine that is well balanced, full of fruit, and has an appealing finish. It is enjoyable alone, but will be better with lean dishes, such as turkey, fish, chicken, vegetarian. Or have it with a mild cheese or simple appetizer.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-8 v-8 ~ 93 Points

Silver Spur Winery website

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Powers Merlot 2004 Columbia Valley

Real deal price: 12.99

Ho-hum you say … a California Merlot review. Well … not really.

Actually, Powers Merlot is from Washington State — but that’s a giveaway for anyone who took the time to read the label and knows where Columbia Valley is situated. Powers is a “sister” label to Badger Mountain, a 100% organic vineyard also in Columbia Valley (in fact, it was the FIRST vineyard in Washington to be Certified Organic, back in 1990). In 1992, Badger Mountain founders Bill and Greg Powers (a father and son team) decided to make non-organic wines as well, from grapes sourced from well-respected vineyards throughout Columbia Valley — and thus the “Powers” label was born. Though Powers is best known as a Cabernet producer, their Merlot is pretty tasty as well — and a fine value.

Powers Merlot: The Tasting Notes

Open, forward nose of ripe raspberry, black cherry, green earth, black pepper, bell pepper, tar, tea leaves, and a minty herb (anise?) aroma. In the mouth it has super-ripe, juicy raspberry fruit, earth, mild sweet tobacco, black cherry, plum, bell pepper, and hints of chocolate and tar. Texture is smooth. Acidity is somewhere between mild and medium. Tannins are medium, and most noticeable in the midpalate. The finish is a bit hot – the wine’s only significant negative – but also offers some raspberry fruit, black pepper, and earth. This is a good match for burgers, skirt steak, cheeses, braises and stews. At about $12.99, this is a very good to great value.

a-8 t-9 b-7 fc-7 v-9 ~ 90 Points

Powers Winery Website

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Bodegas Famiglia Valentin Bianchi “Elsa” Malbec 2004