Rose Wine Review: Tall Horse Pinotage

Tall Horse Pinotage Rose 2007

Tall Horse Pinotage Rose wine bottleYou’d think this site became a pink wine blog …

Yes, it’s yet another rose wine review. Sorry, but there are so many gosh-darn good pink wines this year.

The latest I’ve tasted is by Tall Horse, made from 100% Pinotage — an unlikely candidate for rose wine. Pinotage is from South Africa, and traditionally a big, bold red wine with black berry and earth character, and a touch of an unusual aroma that can only be described as “band-aid”. When I heard that a) there was a rose from South Africa and b) it was made from Pinotage, I had to get my hands on a bottle for no other reason than to satisfy my curiosity and bewilderment. After all, it’s difficult to find ANY South African wines in a typical US wine shop, and damn near impossible to find a rose from SA — and even then it most likely would be made from Cabernet.

Suspicious of any pink wine made from Pinotage, especially one adorned with a label of a cartoon-like giraffe, I’ll admit my initial prognosis was, “there’s no way this is going to be good.”

As is often the case with low expectations, however, I was pleasantly surprised — this rose is a fruit-filled quaffer with plenty of complexity and enough structure to stand up to food.

The tasting notes:
Mild aromas of red berry, red licorice, cranberry (none of the typical “band-aid” aroma associated with Pinotage, by the way). Fruit is more pronounced on the palate, offering juicy watermelon candy, raspberry candy, pomegranate, pear, peach, and a touch of mineral. Acidity is mild to medium – not too high for drinking alone, but tart enough to match with fairly simple foods. It finishes quickly, but with a nice red licorice and red cherry flavor, as well as a bit of citrus. Easy drinking, with enough perceived sweetness to sway white zinners toward finer wine. Don’t drink this too cold, or you’ll miss a lot of the fun and complexity. Enjoy it as an aperitif, with simple appetizers, or with barbecued chicken. May also be good with sweet and spicy dishes, such as you might find on a Chinese take-out menu. At around 8 bucks, this is a great value.

a-7 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v- 9 ~ 89 Points


Tall Horse Wines website

Rose Wine Review: Chateau Laulerie

Chateau Laulerie Bergerac Rose 2006

Chateau Laulerie Bergerac Rose WineWhere did the summer go? It seems like it just arrived, and now it’s on the way out. Maybe I wouldn’t have realized it had I not seen banners and ads all over the place for Halloween … sheesh! However, the weather is still warm in most parts of the USA, and you can continue to enjoy the pink / rose wines that were released over the last few months. Thank goodness, too, because I have at least a half-dozen reviews of good roses that you can still find and will be fresh enough to enjoy for about another month or so.

One excellent value — you can find it under ten bucks — is Chateau Laulerie Rose from Bergerac in southwestern France. It’s made from grapes grown just to the east of Bordeaux, along the Dordonne river — 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and 15% Malbec. This wine offers a typical rose nose: mild ripe aromas of red raspberry, strawberry, and a touch of red licorice. In the mouth, you get ethereal flavors upfront carried on an almost creamy texture that become more intense as the wine sits on your palate and moves toward the finish. Good ripe strawberry, red raspberry, a touch of red cherry and a hint of mineral. Acidity is mild to medium, tannins are mild — both are at appropriate levels for the fruit. The finish is longer than expected and pleasant, first offering raspberry and cherry, eventually ending with watermelon and some tart acidity. A great wine for food — ideal for a barbecue. It goes with grilled sausage and peppers, shish kebab, salads (bean, pasta, leaf), chicken dishes, all kinds of appetizers, anything with sautéed onions, quiche, vegetarian dishes. There’s the slightest bit of perceived sweetness that will offer a refreshing foil to hot and spicy cuisine as well. Don’t drink this too cold or you will miss all the juicy ripe fruit — drink it slightly colder than a red, slightly warmer than a white. Easy drinking … almost too easy, even on its own.

Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines

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a-7 t-7 b-9 fc-10 v-10 ~ 93 Points

Red Wine Review: Les Deux Rives Corbieres

Les Deux Rives Corbieres Rouge 2005

Val d'Orbieu Les Deux Rives Corbieres rouge wine bottleSummer is the best time for drinking white and pink wines, but that doesn’t mean you should swear off reds completely. In fact, now is a good time to sample lighter reds that you might not consider during the braising and roasting seasons of autumn and winter.

One such lighter-bodied red, which I find to be a nice match for an array of summertime meals, is Les Deux Rives Corbieres rouge (lay doo reev core bee air rooozh). If you didn’t take French 101, and don’t know much about France’s wine geography, you might have some trouble pronouncing this wine, much less understanding all the gobbledygook on the label.

First, let’s talk about the brand name. “Les Deux Rives” is the name representing the best wine blend of Corbieres produced by les Vignerons du Val d’Orbieu, a group of winegrowers based in Narbonne in Southern France (Val d’Orbieu is in small print somewhere on the label, but this wine is best known by the former moniker).

Additionally, “Les Deux Rives” means “the two banks”, as of a river or other water current (as opposed to Chase and Wachovia). In this case, it refers to the two banks of the Canal du Midi, a canal built in the 1600s that ran through the Corbieres region connected the Mediterranean to the Atlantic. It was one of the most important routes for transporting wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon to northern France, Europe and beyond. The label, in fact, is a rendition of a 1920s postcard of the Canal. So now you have a cool story to tell your friends when you’re pouring the wine.

In addition to the story of the label, it’s helpful to know something about Corbieres. The Corbieres is one of the largest wine appellations in France, a sub-region of the Languedoc-Roussillon, located in the south of France, below Minervois and along the Mediterranean Sea. The main grape grown there is Carignan, which you’ll see throughout the south of France and also in California, and is usually used in combination with other grapes such as Grenache and Cinsault. For a long time, the wines of Corbieres were considered “cheap plonk”, and deserved little attention from critics. However, there are now many fine wines produced in the region, including several excellent values.

This Corbieres from Les Deux Rives is a blend of mostly Grenache and Syrah, with lesser amounts of Mourvedre and Carignan. The nose is soft, not too expressive. Smells of black cherry, hints of earth and tar. Soft and easy on the palate. Not too complex, but good balance and structure that makes it an ideal match for mildly flavored foods, seasoned fish (blackened), fried chicken, hash browns, mild cheeses. Acidity is medium, tannins are soft to medium. Flavors are black cherry, cranberry, red raspberry, touch of mineral, and an earthy, herbal / vegetal component. Smooth texture.

I discovered this wine about six or seven years ago ever since have had it on my list of reliable standbys. Year in and year out, Les Deux Rives provides a consistent flavor profile and structure that is typical of the Corbieres. It’s a step above Beaujolais, a step below Syrah (more like Grenache) — a solid, “bistro” wine and good value. Match it with roasted chicken, lamb, mac and cheese, burgers, and pretty much anything off the grill.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Importers: Pasternak Wine Imports and Martin Sinkoff Wines

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White Wine Review: Drylands Sauvignon Blanc

Drylands Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006

Drylands Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough wine bottleIn the summertime, I’m always on the lookout for a clean, quality Sauvignon Blanc under fifteen bucks. They’re around, but can take some time to find. Usually you’ll find such bargains from Chile or Argentina, and on occasion from New Zealand or South Africa. One good valued example is this Sauvignon from Drylands, which retails for about $14.99 (though some retailers may have it for a few dollars less).

Drylands is a winery — and vineyard — in the Marlborough region of New Zealand, and is a label under the umbrella of the Nobilo wine group. The property consists of a 33-acre block that was planted with Sauvignon Blanc rootstocks back in 1980, and now also is home to some Pinot Noir plantings. You don’t need to know any of this information to enjoy the wine, but it makes for interesting dinner conversation.

Wide open on the nose, with lots of bright gooseberry and grassy aromas, along with limey citrus. The palate is equally bright, showing ripe citrus (lime), green melon, some mineral, and a touch of granny smith apple that comes along in the finish. A faint bit of a vegetal component comes in the finish as well — maybe lemongrass? Very clean and crisp. Good edge of tart acidity balances the ripe fruit and allows this wine to be matched with a myriad of foods. Finish is fairly long, harmonious. Well balanced. Try it with all kinds of fish, poultry, spicy foods.

a-8 t-8 b-9 fc-10 v-8 ~ 93 Points

Drylands Website

Importer: Constellation Brands

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Red Wine Review: Vinos Sin-Ley G2

Vinos Sin-Ley G2 Garnacha D.O. Monstat 2005

Vinos Sin-Ley G2 Garnacha red wine bottleVinos Sin Ley translates to “wines without law”. This is an interesting winery, created by two bright winemakers who have added additional enologists to their group and are focused on making high-quality, value-oriented wines. They produce wines that retail from seven to thirty bucks, with the bulk of the assortment under $13. Macintosh users will be comfortable with their Garnacha range, which is named G1, G2, G3, G4, ,G5, and G6 (prices raise as the G-number increases).

Bright, ripe, open nose of red and black berries, earth, tar, hint of tobacco. In the mouth you get juicy, almost candylike (jolly rancher) wild berry flavors, along with mild earth, a touch of tar and sweet tobacco. Clean, with a polished, smooth texture. Acidity and tannins are mild, making this a better match for lean meats and fish rather than fatty beef and cheesy plates. Enjoyable on its own as well – fine for a cocktail quaffer. This is an enjoyable, easy drinking wine with more complexity than you’d expect from an under-$10 bottle. Great value.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-10 ~ 90 Points

Importer: Ole Imports

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Vinum Cellars PETS Petite Sirah

Vinum Cellars Wilson Vineyards PETS Petite Sirah wine bottleWith the label featuring a black and white photo of a sweet Labrador Retriever, how could one possibly leave this bottle on the shelf?

I’m not clear on exactly who makes this wine — the label lists both Vinum Cellars and Wilson Vineyards, and states that the wine is from Clarksburg, California. I’m guessing that Vinum Cellars is the producer, and Wilson Vineyards is the winegrower?

Anyway, who or where it comes from matters not … it is a very enjoyable wine: polished, smooth, well-structured, and ready to drink.

The nose is fairly closed at first, but if you let the wine sit in the glass it will eventually offer inviting aromas of sweet black raspberry, blueberry, a touch of tar and hints of black cassis and prune. In the mouth the first thing you notice is a smooth-as-glass texture, which carries forward, ripe red and black fruits — plum, raspberry, some touches of herb, earth, and pepper, as well as a delicious spicy component that resembles cardamom, cocoa or vanilla. Acidity and tannins are at medium to medium-high levels, and in good proportion to the juicy, almost jammy flavors. Fairly enjoyable on its own, this wine really finds its potential next to a ribeye or skirt steak. Will also do well with other grilled meats, dry cheeses, and short ribs. Added bonus: a portion of the profits for this wine go to the winery’s local animal shelter. At somewhere between 10 and 13 dollars, this is a very good value.

a-8 t-9 b-9 fc-7 v-8 ~ 91 Points

Website: Vinum Cellars

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Rose Wine Review: Mas de Gourgonnier

Mas de Gourgonnier Les Baux de Provence Rose wine bottleCould there be a better time of year?

The weather is perfect, school is nearly out, baseball season’s in full swing, and the rose wines have arrived.

If you’ve never been “tickled pink” by the youthful selections available in your local wine shop during the late spring, this year is as good a time as any to start trying rose-colored wines through crystal-clear glasses. An ideal bottle to begin with is this Provencal example: Mas de Gourgonnier Rose Les Baux de Provence 2006 — a consistently tasty pink wine and one of my annual favorites.

Made from about 60% Grenache and completed with a blend of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the color is a bright, dark pink, almost cherry. Though the nose will eventually open up, right now, it is somewhat subdued, offering just a hint of strawberry and pear, belying the vibrant, bright fruit you get in the mouth. Flavors of fresh strawberry, pear, sweet pink grapefruit, cranberry, watermelon, pomegranate, a touch of citrus, and red currant dance on the palate, carried by a good edge of racy acidity and juicy, mild tannins. The finish is very pleasant and fairly well balanced, eventually leaving lingering tastes of sour red cherry, red currants, pomegranate, and a hint of strawberry. A perfect match for food, enjoy it with spicy foods, Indian cuisine, salads, fish, chicken, pork, bbq ribs or bbq chicken — just about anything. As with most quality rose wines, don’t drink this too cold, or you’ll miss all the fun. At about twelve bucks, this is a good value.

a-7 t-7 b-10 fc-10 v-8 ~ 92 points

Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines

Mas de Gourgonnier shelf talker available through DownloadPOS

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Kanonkop Kadette

Kanonkop Kadette wine bottle imageAt some point in your wine buying life, you may have come across bottles from South Africa — most likely, they’d be cramped up in a back corner shelf near the wines from Australia and New Zealand. You may have found their origin intriguing, but feared buying a bottle, since no one’s ever talking about South African wine.

However, there are some very good wines coming out of South Africa, though the majority are still trying to find a receptive audience. Part of the problem is the flavor profile of their flagship grape — Pinotage — which has been described as being similar to Band-Aids (no kidding … and yes it IS a good thing). Despite its name, Pinotage is nothing like Pinot Noir, though might be closer to Meritage. In any case, it has a distinctive, earthy character, which some people love and others hate. As if that weren’t enough going against it, there are a number of subpar, inexpensive Pinotages littering the shelves — and unfortunately there are no ten-dollar bottles that can do the grape justice. The result is that people who might take a gamble on a cheap Pinotage, will likely come away believing that South African wine stinks.

Luckily, there is a veritable representative of South African wine that won’t break your budget: Kanonkop Kadette. Kanonkop is THE winery for Pinotage (as well as a great Bordeaux-style blend called “Paul Sauer”) and this is their ‘entry-level’ introduction to the raw beast of a red wine that South Africa is capable of producing. Kadette is typically 50% or more Pinotage with the balance a blend of equal amounts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Adding these grapes softens the aggressive qualities of Pinotage, and the result is a red wine that most will find intriguing, as it offers a cross-section of what South Africa’s vineyards have to offer. You will get a touch of the distinctive “Band-Aid” quality on the nose, but not so much to be offensive. At the same time, you’ll also enjoy the other marks of typical South African wine: plummy cassis, black raspberry, black cherry, grape juice, and earthy flavors wrapped in appropriate levels of tart acidity, ripe tannins, and alcohol.

In some years this wine is earthy and rustic, but there have been vintages that were more ripe and jammy, with succulent plummy fruit upfront. Regardless of the vintage, Kadette is almost always a fantastic burger wine, and you can also match it with grilled sweetbreads, blackened / cajun dishes, cheeses and cheese-based dishes. At about twelve bucks, it’s a great value and an excellent introduction to the wines of South Africa.

Importer: Cape Classics

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Mad Dogs and Englishmen Shiraz Cabernet Monastrell 2004

Mad Dogs and Englishmen Shiraz Cabernet Monastrell bottleWell if the name doesn�t grab you, I�m not sure what will.

Oh, and don’t confuse it with that 20/20 stuff you drank as a poor college student.

This is a jammy and earthy, fruit-forward, typical Aussie Shiraz that may well knock your socks off. Just one thing — it�s NOT from Australia.

If you are an astute wine geek with a particular fascination for the more obscure wine regions of Spain, then the mention of Monastrell on the label might have tipped you off. For the uninitiated, Monastrell is a grape indigenous to the Jumilla DO region of Spain, and is the same grape they call Mourvedre in the Rhone Valley of France. It�s the base grape for many of my good-valued Spanish wine favorites, such as Juan Gil�s Wrongo Dongo.

Mad Dogs & Englishmen Shiraz Cabernet Monastrell has a deep, rich nose of earth, spice, and cooked black fruits. The nose actually reminds me more of a Rhone wine, such as a Gigondas or Vacqueyras. On the palate, it tastes like an Aussie Shiraz that has been blended with a Rhone Syrah, as you get both the typical New World style fruit-forward jammy flavors upfront, and also get the more earthy, vegetal, cooked fruit / prunelike Old World chacteristics on the midpalate and through the finish. Tannins are medium to strong, and acidity is medium. The sweet jamminess eventually evolves into a more bitter, vegetal finish. Overall this is a very interesting, complex wine. By itself, this wine is contemplative and unusual, but the green flavors and ample tannins may turn you off. For that reason, I strongly suggest you enjoy it with food — such as a nice hunk of cheese, a steak, burger, meatloaf, or similarly protein-rich dish.

I thought for sure this wine retailed at $16 or more � however you will probably find it for no more than eleven bucks, possibly as low as eight. A great value and worth trying.

a-8 t-7 b-7 fc-7 v-10 ~ 89 points

Imported by Click Wine Group

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Red Wine Review: Colosi Sicilia Rosso 2004

Colosi Rosso Sicilia Red WineOver the last 25 years or so, the island of Sicily has tranformed itself from an overgrown grape juice factory into a hotbed for cutting edge, superripe, fine wines. Its long, arid, sweltering summers allow for extreme ripening of grapes, thus producing ripe, dense, fruit-packed wines. In the last decade some remarkable (and expensive) Sicilian wines have stunned the wine world, but the island is also becoming known as a place for great values.

One of these is this red wine from the Colosi winery — Colosi Rosso — which retails for under 10 bucks. It has a somewhat closed nose at first, but if you give it some time it will eventually produce aromas of sour cherry, sour cranberry, and a touch of plum. In the mouth it has a ripe, fresh, open fruit flavor — cherry again, along with jammy red raspberry, black raspberry, plum, and pomegranate. It displays good depth, with mild hints of earth and tar, and has a smooth texture, with medium tannins.

I originally discovered this wine about four years ago, and though the acid and tannin levels seem to fluctuate according to the vintage (in some years, this wine may remind you of Chianti), the fruit has always been ripe and buying a bottle has never been a disappointment. Try it with chicken fricasee or chicken pot pie, or with meals based on turkey or lean ground turkey. It�s also enjoyable on its own — consider it with simple frozen-food type appetizers (hot poppers, pigs in blankets, mini-pizza). Because of the juicy jammy fruit, this might be a good bridge wine for transporting Yellow Tailers to real wine.

a-7 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-9

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This wine is imported by Vias Wine