Wine Weekly

Red Wine Review: Cono Sur Pinot Noir

Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2008 | Chile · Central Valley

Ever since the movie “Sideways”, Pinot Noir has been the wine of choice among casual wine drinkers. As a result, we’ve seen a glut of Pinot Noir brought in from every corner of the world, many at remarkably affordable price points.

The truth is, most of the Pinot Noir sold under $20 doesn’t hold a candle to the luscious high-end examples from California that Miles Raymond gushed over on screen. Additionally, most are so manipulated with modern technology that they barely resemble the pure fruit and terroir expression associated with the great red wines of Burgundy, France.

But, that doesn’t mean the wines are bad — quite the opposite, in fact.

Old school Burgundy enthusiasts likely scoff at many of these New World, low-priced bottles labeled as Pinot Noir, but if you can accept them for what they are — affordable, tasty, quaffers — then they are much easier to enjoy. Don’t expect a life-changing experience, and you’ll likely be pleased.

For example, this Pinot Noir from Chile, which I’ve enjoyed in vintages from 2004-2008 with similarly pleasing notes (the 2009 may be in your market as well).

Tasting Notes: Cono Sur Pinot Noir 2008

Nose is expressive, with sweet raspberry, strawberry, and floral aromas. In the mouth it has lots of sweet strawberry and red cherry fruit, as well as candylike raspberry and a bit of zesty spice. Texture is smooth. Acidity is mild, tannins are mild, alcohol is low. The finish is quick but pleasant, with plenty of fruit and a pleasing aftertaste. A good match for lean meats, gamey fish (salmon), mild cheese dishes, and vegetarian cuisine. One of the better under-$10 Pinot Noirs I’ve ever had.

a-7 t-7 b-8 fc-8 v-10 ~ 90 Points

Bottom Line

Simple, easy drinking, with juicy red fruits and enough structure to match with a variety of dishes.

Where to Buy Cono Sur Pinot Noir

Find this wine at a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher, Vinquire, or WineZap

Learn more from the Cono Sur website or from the US importer Vineyard Brands

DISCLAIMER: This wine was purchased by me at a local retailer with my own hard-earned ducats.

Red Wine Review: Oxford Landing GSM

Oxford Landing Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2006 ·

The “Rhone Rangers” are gaining fame for growing traditional Rhone Valley varietals in California. However, there are winegrowers “down under” doing the same thing in Australia. This is one example.

Though Shiraz is well-known as a wine from Australia, you may not be as familiar seeing the other two grapes from that continent. Grenache is more commonly seen as a varietal wine from France, and Mourvedre is another French grape used almost exclusively as a blending agent. On its own, Mourvedre (a.k.a. “Mataro” or “Monastrell”, depending on the country of origin) is fairly tannic and has a gamey, earthy character. That’s not necessarily a pleasant combination on its own but when blended with the comparatively fat and thin Grenache (funny, only a wine could be both simultaneously), you have a perfect match resulting in a balanced and interesting wine. Add in some Syrah / Shiraz and now it’s balanced, interesting, and has a bit of oomph.

The French have been blending these three grapes together for centuries, and now Australia is beginning to do the same. Oxford Landing is an estate on the Murray River in South Australia that’s been around since the late 1950s, so they’re not new to the game. But, the label has been put on bottles for only about a decade — it is a secondary brand of the large Yalumba wine company. What that means to you is you should be able to find Oxford Landing wines easily, the prices should be affordable, and their flavor should be consistent from year to year.

You may be able to find the 2007 vintage on your retailer’s shelf; they’re still selling the ‘06 in my parts.

Tasting Notes: Oxford Landing Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2006

Nose is open, with ample aromas of black and red berry fruits, blackcurrant, earth, and red licorice. In the mouth there is plenty of red and black berry fruit upfront, almost jammy, with notes of tobacco and earth. Tannins are soft, acidity is mild. Finish is pleasant, filled with black cherry, blueberry, and chocolate licorice, with a bit of drying acidity at the tail end. Reminds me a bit of Borsao, or Dao wine from Portugal. Enjoyable alone, will also be good with lean meats and fish, mild cheeses. At under ten bucks, a good value.

a-8 t-8 b-7 fc-7 v-8 ~ 88 Points

Bottom Line

A solid, easygoing, reliable red that is tasty on its own and won’t overwhelm a meal. Good value.

Where to buy this wine

Find this wine at a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher, Vinquire, or WineZap

Or, buy Oxford Landing GSM direct from Wine.com

Learn more at the Oxford Landing website or from the US importer, Negociants USA

Red Wine Review: Concannon Syrah

Concannon Syrah 2005 · Livermore Valley

For whatever reason, I’ve always associated Concannon with Petite Sirah — perhaps because they were the first California winery to varietally label the grape back in 1964. And their Petite Sirah generally rocks.

So it was with a little hesitation, overcome by curiosity, that I plucked this bottle from the shelf.

For those unaware, Petite Sirah and Syrah are completely different grapes. Syrah rootstalks were imported from other parts of the world (probably France), while Petite Sirah (which is neither small nor Syrah) is thought to be indigenous to California. We’ll discuss Petite Sirah at greater lengths another time — there’s actually an interesting story and some controversy surrounding its origins. For now, we’ll concentrate on Syrah — the one made by Concannon.

The vintage stocked at my local wine shop is 2005, and it’s drinking very nicely. You may be able to find the 2006 or the 2007 in your area; if so, and you’ve tasted it, please share your notes in the comments.

Tasting Notes: Concannon Syrah 2005

Open nose of mature, overripe black fruits — blackberry, blackcurrant, black raspberry, with hints of tobacco and earth. In the mouth it has a smooth, almost syrupy texture, ripe blackberry and black raspberry flavors. Acidity is mild, tannins are mild. Flavors evolve into a finish of blackberry, blueberry, mild tobacco, and a hint of dark chocolate that is held up with drying acidity. The alcohol is barely noticeable, which is pleasantly surprising for a wine with this much upfront, ripe fruit. OK on its own, perfect with lean-beef burgers, mild cheeses, blackened chicken, sloppy joes, tacos, swedish meatballs.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-7 v-7 ~ 88 Points

Bottom Line

A soft and jammy Syrah with enjoyable black berry flavors and perfect match for lean meat dishes. At under $10, a great value.

Where To Buy It

Find this wine at a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher, Vinquire, or WineZap

Learn more at the official website: Concannon Vineyards

Merlot Wine Review: Dante

Dante Merlot 2006 · Michael Pozzan Winery

I have to admit, I purchased this wine based on its label — one of my best friends became a father recently, to a son named “Dante”. So it was an added bonus that the juice behind the label turned out to be pretty good — and well worth the price.

Dante is made by the Michael Pozzan Winery, and ironically (to me, anyway), is named after Michael Pozzan’s eldest son. The wine itself is purportedly inspired by Michael’s trips to Italy — per the the Pozzan website, the wines labeled with “Dante” are: “hearty but approachable wines are reminisant [sic] of your fravorite trattoria in Italy”. At around ten bucks, that’s enough story for me.

I’ve enjoyed the soft, supple, accessible wines from Pozzan for several years, and this bottling fits in with the winery’s style. Unlike other wines from Pozzan, the grapes come from outside Napa — but again, when I’m spending about ten bucks, vineyard location is a moot point. Just give me a decent wine I can enjoy with a simple meal and make me feel like I got my money’s worth. For that, this wine delivers.

Tasting Notes: Dante Merlot

The nose is full of ripe red raspberry, ripe strawberry, and black cherry, with hints of vanilla, spice, earth, and smoke. In the mouth it is borderline jammy upfront, with lots of ripe red berry fruits, vanilla, and white chocolate flavors. The finish is pleasantly tart, with ripe black cherry and red raspberry notes. Acidity is mild to medium, tannins are mild to medium, alcohol is just a touch warm on the finish. All three elements are in good balance with the high fruit level. Enjoyable alone, also good with a variety of foods. Drink it with lean meats, Mexican fare, lean sausage, mild cheeses, vegetarian dishes.

a-8 t-8 b-8 fc-8 v-8 ~ 90 Points

Bottom Line

A soft, warm, approachable Merlot that is enjoyable alone or with simple dishes based on lean meats or mild cheeses. Fine as an everyday drinker and a great value.

Find this wine at a retailer near you using Wine-Searcher, Vinquire, or WineZap

Learn more by visiting the Michael Pozzan Winery website