Wine Gift: Heidsieck Champagne

Heidsieck Blue Top Champagne bottleHeidsieck & Co Monopole Blue Top Premiers Crus

When you’re stumped — and pressed for time— about what to get as a gift for the wine lover in your life, the best idea is a bottle of Champagne. Champagne is the epitome of celebration, the exclamation point of a joyous occasion — and therefore a perfect gift.

However, don’t just go out and get any Champagne — get something different, special, rare, memorable. Any fool can walk in and buy a bottle of Dom Perignon … so go out of your way to choose something lesser-known yet highly regarded. A bottle you can’t find just anywhere. A bottle with a story. A bottle like Heidsieck & Co. Blue Top.

This Champagne has nothing to do with Charles Heidsieck, nor Piper-Heidsieck — Heidsieck & Monopole is a completely separate, individual Champagne house, and in fact, has been around since 1785. There’s your story: it’s not what you think it is … but it could be better. Oh, want another bit of trivia to add to the story? Just this year, a bottle of 1907 Heidsieck Monopole was sold for $4200 at the Hart Davis Hart Auction in Chicago. You got that right — forty-two-hundred, for one bottle — the most paid in 2006 for one 750ml bottle of bubbly.

There’s another way to keep this Champagne separated in your mind from the others: its appearance. This “Blue Top” sparkler comes in a striking and distinctive, Corvette-yellow bottle with — you guessed it — a blue top.

But why go to the trouble of finding this particular bottle? Aren’t there plenty of other Champagnes and sparkling wines to choose from, also with good stories? Well, there are. And many are very good. Some are better. But not all are distinctively packaged, and thus you may find yourself staring at a full shelf of lookalike bottles with unpronounceable French names, wondering which one was the bottle recommended by your favorite wine magazine or blogger. Sure, you can’t judge a wine by its bottle any more than a book by its cover, but there’s something to be said for shopping efficiency during the holiday season, and in this case, the screaming yellow bottle contains an appropriately worthwhile wine inside.

This is a dry style of Champagne, so if your gift recipient is into the sweeter sparklers, stay away. Otherwise, dive right in. You will be excited with anticipation the moment the wine is poured into the glass, as it will become charged with an abundance of aggressive, tiny bubbles that develop an immediate, full foam (or mousse, as the French call it). Take a moment to stick your nose in the glass, and you will be rewarded with a clean, citrusy, slightly toasted aroma that also has a hint of mineral. In the mouth, you get very similar flavors as were on the nose, along with a touch of honey and pear, all tightly wound by a stiffly acidic wrapper. It has excellent structure, yet remains elegant and has the perception of being lighter than it really is.

If you always drink sparkling wines alone, you might not understand the acidity — until you start popping hors d’oeuvres in your mouth. The Blue Top is wonderful for the table top, as it pairs perfectly with a variety of appetizers, can match with most fish and white meats, and will temper the heat of a hot and spicy dish. Champagne is not enjoyed with food often enough, and this bottle is as good an excuse as any to break that trend.

I originally discovered this sparkler at a Champagne tasting a few months ago, and found it to be the best of a very competitive bunch — to me it was more enjoyable than several better known, much more expensive Champagnes against which I tasted head-to-head (including two of James Bonds’ favorites). Tasting it again, alone, and with food, it’s still impressive and becoming one of my favorite sparklers.

It may be hard to find, but is well worth the search. Consider it your little secret, and as a gift for the holidays. The recipient will not be disappointed.

Find this wine at a local retailer through Wine-Searcher or Vinquire

Francis Coppola Reserve Viognier Russian River Valley 2005

francis coppola viognierViognier (vee-ohn-YAY) has historically been a fairly rare grape, grown primarily in the Rhone Valley region of France and most famous for a wine called Condrieu (kohn-dree-yuh ). Even as recently as 20 years ago, no more than 100 acres of Viognier vineyards were planted worldwide — the bulk of it still in the Rhone with some coming out of the Languedoc-Roussillon region (also in France) — mostly due to its tiny yields, inconsistent ripening, and small demand.

However, in the early 1990s, Joseph Phelps began growing Viognier, Syrah, and other Rhone varietals in his California vineyards, sparking a movement dubbed the “Rhone Rangers“, where several other winegrowers followed in the experiment of planting known-as-Rhone vines in left coast soil. The results have been mixed, though it’s still quite early to be critical — considering that the Rhone Valley has had a few hundred years’ head start. Every once in a while an outstanding example comes out this laboratory, such as this Viognier from Francis Ford Coppola.

The nose exudes a perfumey, ripe, spicy fruit aroma that immediately screams Viognier.
True Viogner from the Rhone has a very distinct aroma and flavor that many either love or hate — and this bottle from the Russian River Valley of California captures that distinctiveness, resembling some of the best examples from the Rhone.

The Coppola winemaker allowed the Viognier to express itself in all its uniqueness, fermenting it in neutral stainless steel. The result is a very clean, pure expression of the varietal, sans the oily texture that sometimes carries the wine. Rather, the texture is smooth, closer to creamy.

In the mouth, this wine shows typical Viognier character: spicy green melon, Anjou pear, a spicy element that might be described as ginger snap (remember those ginger snap, windmill-shaped cookies your grandma fed you?) or cardamom, with hints of peach, lime and allspice. The acidity is remarkably high for a Viognier, which places it at medium to medium-high on the scale (Viognier often tends to be fatter) and thus positions it to be an excellent match for food. The finish is also remarkable for its length and fulfilling fruit. This is a very classy, polished wine that captures true, distinct Viognier character and then some, offering ripe, rich fruit complexity while also offering mouthwatering acidity and remaining low in alcohol (another Viognier tendency; most Viogner, especially from the Rhone, can be a little on the hot side).

Match it with roast chicken, roast ham (pink or fresh), pork chops, Thai food (lemongrass!), mild vegetarian hors d’oeuvres, and Indian vegetarian dishes. It’s also enjoyable on its own. However you drink it, just be sure you DO NOT OVERCHILL it. This wine really shows its complexity and best flavors at a few degrees warmer than other white wines; if it’s only a few degrees to cold, you might miss out on many of the details and nuances that make this wine so special.

By the way, don’t look for this bottle in your local wine shop — it’s probably not there. This wine is most easily found online — through the Coppola website — or from the winery in Sonoma (if you happen to live or travel nearby). However, it is worth the effort.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

Wine Review: Calera Pinot Noir

Calera Pinot Noir Central Coast

$15.99

Calera Pinot Noir Bottle ImageIt’s been almost two years since the movie “Sideways” surprised the movie critics and sparked a nationwide increase in Pinot Noir sales in the USA. Yet, Pinot Noir remains the hottest-selling varietal in terms of growth, with no slowdown in sight. In fact, AC Nielson reported late last year that Pinot Noir sales in supermarkets was up 43% over 2004 … a tremendous figure.

For years, Pinot Noir was something of a secret of the wine geeks. Any connoisseur who does not worship Bordeaux will be quick to point to Pinot Noir from Burgundy as the finest red wine on earth. However, both the cost and availability of Burgundian bottles has made Pinot prohibitive … until Sideways hit the scene.

Since Sideways, Pinot Noir is everywhere you turn, from all kinds of places, at prices starting under ten bucks and going through three digits. Where a wine shop’s Pinot Noir inventory used to consist of a few dusty bottles of Burgundy sans price tags behind a temperature-controlled glass case, the same stores now stock ten versions of Pinot on the shelves, and maybe three more on the floor. This new demand for, and glut of, the grape is a mixed blessing: a boon for retailer, a guessing game for the consumer.

You see, Pinot Noir used to be easy to buy; you went to the Burgundy section, chose an old, well-known producer, and paid through the nose for a bottle of liquid magic. If you paid less than $40, then you likely weren’t getting a worthwhile wine … at least not in terms of true Pinot Noir.

However, we now have Pinot Noir priced all over the place, coming from areas in France outside of Burgundy, from California, Washington State, Argentina … the list of origins seems to grow every day. So now selection is difficult, as the bar (and the price) has been lowered.

I still believe — and feel free to post your arguments — that the very BEST Pinot Noirs, the ones that are nearly life-changing, come from the Grand Cru vineyards of Burgundy. But, I’ve started to recognize — albeit with great resistance — that there are some decent, affordable bottles made from the Pinot Noir grape.

One under-$20 bottle I particularly enjoy is Calera Pinot Noir, Central Coast. Ripe black berry fruit and vanilla spice aromas are inviting to the nose, and similar black and red berry fruit flavors are enjoyed on the palate. It’s just a touch hot upfront, causing a slight sting, but mellows out, with blackberry, black raspberry, black cherry, and vanilla spice flavors dominating. The tannins are medium, acidity is mild to medium. Because of the slight hotness (from a 14.4% alcohol level), it is a little overbearing on its own, but when paired with food, the alcohol is pushed to the background and the wine is quite enjoyable. It provides structure to hold up against both acidic and slightly fatty dishes, and will make a nice companion to a number of dishes. Try it with cheeses, pizzeria-style dishes (anything based on a marinara-type sauce), and barbecued lean meats such as chicken and pork. At around fifteen bucks, it is a good value.

a-7 t-7 b-6 fc-8 v-7 +50 = 85 Points

Find a retailer who sells this wine using Wine-Searcher

Or, find Calera Pinot Noir through WineZap

Or, buy it directly from Wine.com: Calera 2004 Central Coast Pinot Noir

Wine Review: Lungarotti Rubesco Rosso di Torgiano 2000

A Super Umbrian
lungarotti rubesco wine bottleN: Deep black fruit and earth. Some hints of spice and berry fruit.

P: Ripe black and red berry fruits. Well structured, with good flavor through the midpalate and an unusually long and balanced finish. Somewhat green and earthy, in an attractive way, with a touch of mild tobacco. Though it is big and ripe with fruit, it is simultaneously soft in the mouth: tannins and acidity firmly hold the fruit in place, and hardly an afterthought until the fruit finally fades away. I stole this out of a discount bin for around ten bucks — it is still a bargain for double the price. [Read more...]