Category Archives: Wines to Impress

Red Wine Review: Silver Spur Pinot Noir

Silver Spur Pinot Noir 2002

Silver Spur Pinot Noir wine bottleI have to admit, I was expecting very little from this wine. Silver Spur was completely unknown to me, as I’d never seen the winery name in a retail shop, on a restaurant list, nor read in a wine magazine. It was sent to me by MyWinesDirect, an internet-only retailer that specializes in introducing unknown wines to ignorant palates such as mine.

With such low expectations, I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of the wine, immediately apparent after being poured into the glass. The nose is forward, and open, and exudes a fresh, ripe aroma of strawberries, black cherry, earth, and a distinctive smokiness. Though this wine hails from California (specifically, Carneros in Napa Valley), it is more “old world” in style – one of the few American Pinot Noirs that remind me of red Burgundy. Unlike the jammy, over-the-top Pinots typically produced in the West Coast heat, this wine is ripe but not overwhelming, and retains both a rustic character and a tie to its terroir (soil).

In the mouth it has a silky smooth texture, and fills the mouth with ripe black cherry, red raspberry, ripe strawberry, some vanilla spice, and a touch of earth and leather. Acidity is appropriately medium, and tannins are likewise. Alcohol is there but subdued, so the finish is barely warm. All in all, an elegant, polished wine that is well balanced, full of fruit, and has an appealing finish. It is enjoyable alone, but will be better with lean dishes, such as turkey, fish, chicken, vegetarian. Or have it with a mild cheese or simple appetizer.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-8 v-8 ~ 93 Points

Silver Spur Winery website

Buy this wine at MyWinesDirect

Find this wine at a retailer through Wine-Searcher

White Wine Review: Bailly Pouilly-Fume “Les Loges”

Michel Bailly et Fils Pouilly-Fume “Les Loges” 2005

Michel Bailly Pouilly-Fume Les Loges wine bottleIf you can’t pronounce Pouilly-Fume, don’t fret — you need only recognize it when you see it on the shelf (you can always point it out to the sommelier in a restaurant as well, without embarrassment).

And you should be on the lookout for Pouilly-Fume (POO-wee foo-MAY), because many of the ones you see in the USA are a decent bet to be a fine complement to seafood and white meat dishes — even those doused in heavy cream sauces. That’s because the wine is made from the food-friendly Sauvignon Blanc grape, which is grown in limestone-rich, chalky soil that is also rich in marine fossils (i.e., old seashells) and flint. Oh jeez … did I just go geek on you? Why should you care about the dirt? Because it’s what makes Sauvignon Blanc from Pouilly-Fume different from Sauv-Blanc from New Zealand or California. Whereas an NZ example may have a tropical twist to its flavor, Pouilly-Fume will have a more mineral taste, along with a distinct flint character — both due to the fossil-rich and minerally soil.

There are a number of different producers of Pouilly-Fume, and all the fancy French names can get confusing. Here are two very general rules of thumb: first, you usually get what you pay for when it comes to Pouilly-Fume, and a quality bottle is likely to be at least $17-22; second, the phrase “Les Loges” on the label is a fairly dependable indication of quality — it is a small village within Pouilly-Fume containing prestigious vineyards. Using these two “rules”, I came upon, purchased, and enjoyed this bottle: Michel Bailly Pouilly-Fume “Les Loges”.

And it was a very typical Pouilly-Fume: herbaceous, smoky, and green fruit aromas and flavors, with distinct stony mineral, racy acidity. Includes the standard “pipi du chat” (cat pee) / gooseberry aroma, and has plenty of forward, ripe green, flinty, smoky fruit. Also some citrus – lime, grapefruit, and maybe a touch of granny smith apple. Medium-bodied, a nearly creamy texture, and acidity that is appropriately tart but not overbearing when drunk alone. This is a first-class Sauvignon Blanc that perfectly expresses the Pouilly-Fume character: herbal, smoky, minerally. A great food wine, match it with poultry, vegetarian dishes, Thai, Indian, and salads. If you like typically herbaceous Sauvignon, you will enjoy it alone as well. At around 18 bucks, you get what you pay for — a fair value.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-9 v-7 ~ 93 Points

Importer: Michael Skurnik Wines

Find this wine at a retailer near you through Wine-Searcher

Red Wine Review: Arcanum I

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum 1 labelThe latin-looking letters on the label may confuse you, or make you think this wine is Greek. But in fact it is a wine made by a Frenchman from grapes in an Italian vineyard owned by the American Jess Jackson. Got that ? OK, on to the wine …

As with the other Arcanum wines, this wine showed almost nothing after first opening, so I let it sit in the glass for almost an hour. Ripe black fruits immediately accentuate the nose: black rasberry, blackberry, maybe a hint of cassis. Silky, creamy texture carries mildly ripe raspberry fruit that seems to get riper as it sits on the palate and remains in the finish, carried out by touch of creamy vanilla. Yes I know I used creamy twice in that sentence and in my mind it was appropriate for the experience. It is creamy and thick, yet somehow ethereal, if that’s possible. A second sip adds some mild sweet earth, maybe a touch of sweet tobacco. Tannins are medium and in good balance. Acidity is mild to medium and in good proportion to the fruit. A very well balanced, elegant wine … yet somehow simultaneously a monster.

a-9 t-9 b-9 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

Find this wine at a local retailer using Wine-Searcher

Red Wine Review: Arcanum II

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum 2 labelI let this wine sit in the glass for more than an hour before tasting … the winemaster Pierre Seillan says to decant the Arcanum wines a good TWO hours before imbibing. Even after an hour, the aromas are still struggling to get out from under. And what appears from under the depths hints at excellence. I get whiffs of black fruits, complex earth and tar. From the nose, there seems to be a lot of layers here. On the palate, again the characteristics are subdued, but paying close attention reveals a remarkable complexity: ripe black raspberry, black currant, hints of anise and cassis, sweet earth and tobacco, black pepper, cardamom, and vanilla, all tightly wrapped by ripe tannins, mild acidity, and alcohol. The finish lingers for over a minute, and the tannins are still coating the tongue, with gentle fruit and spice in the background, a good three minutes later. This is subdued now, with a few years’ cellaring it should explode into a huge wine to contemplate with exquisite cheese or enjoy with a ribeye.

a-9 t-10 b-10 fc-7 v-7 ~ 92 Points

Find this wine at a local retailer using Wine-Searcher

Red Wine Review: Arcanum III

Tenuta di Arceno Arcanum 3 labelAs with the other Arcanum wines, yes I did let this sit … and sit … and sit … I opened it and poured it and didn’t give it so much of a gander for an hour and a half and it still was showing very little on the nose, other than black pepper, maybe a hint of something meaty … or chocolatey … and a hint of black fruit. In the mouth it displays a little bit more than the nose, and actually gets more flavorful in the finsh.

Upfront, I get some ripe black fruit: blackberry, black raspberry. As I swirl it around, the fruit gets a little more complex, nothing I can describe exactly so let’s just call it complex. Then, everything seems to come rushing out of the gate after swallowing, almost like a desperate college football team pulling out all the stops with 2 minutes left to play.

The finish is long .. lingering … persistent … continuous …. get the drift? The fruit seems to blossom on the finish, showing ripe raspberry fruit, spice, vanilla, and cola. Very well balanced with dry, ripe tannins and medium acidity. This wine is going to be a blockbuster in 3-4 years.

a-8 t-9 b-10 fc-7 v-7 ~ 91 Points

Find this wine at a local retailer using Wine-Searcher